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Built some jacks...
- Thread starter pitts12driver
- Start date
Looks very similar to a set of jacks I put together close to 20 years ago. They’ve probably lifted maybe 4 dozen different RVs since. I think I got my moneys worth out of than.
I made a set just like that about 15 years ago. Maybe the HF hyd cylinders are better quality now, but mine leak down overnight from new. The fix is to split (via saw cut on one side) 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe and slide over the rams (about 1.5" long) and secure with T-bolt clamps. The PVC sleeves with clamps prevent sagging.
I made a pair using the Harbor Freight jacks a few years ago. They work great, are extremely useful for quick wheel work in the hangar. I was using a cup arrangement with a carriage bolt in the wing, but recently upgraded that by slipping in a cup-and-pin arrangement over the jack. It adds a bit of security, at least in my mind it does. These
Tie-down rings and jack cups are from Aerogarage. Kind of expensive but very clever and very well-machined. By securing the jack to the jack point, at least I don't worry about the wing slipping off the jack and wreaking havoc on my wing. I think it's an improvement on the wing jack concept but people will have to judge whether or not it's worth the expense, and I'm not sure that they're still making them. I only bought one set since I find it very rare that I ever use both jacks at the same time.
www.aero-garage.com
Tie-down rings and jack cups are from Aerogarage. Kind of expensive but very clever and very well-machined. By securing the jack to the jack point, at least I don't worry about the wing slipping off the jack and wreaking havoc on my wing. I think it's an improvement on the wing jack concept but people will have to judge whether or not it's worth the expense, and I'm not sure that they're still making them. I only bought one set since I find it very rare that I ever use both jacks at the same time.
Ti-Down Ring and Locking Jack Cup — Aero Garage
Introducing the the lightest, the strongest, and the sleekest tie down ring available, along with a positive-locking jack cup to match. Whether your tying down, or jacking up, there’s no more secure of an option than the new titanium Ti-Down Ring and Locking Jack Cup. Now you can be sure your a
www.aero-garage.com
Just remember, a jacket is for lifting, not for holding. On a good set of jacks you will see some type of locking device. Don’t end up like a guy I know who had a Cessna 310 come down on him.
Good point. I clamp some angle iron spacers between the cylinder & top socket to insure they don’t let me or the plane down.
You can purchase a locking collar. They are very inexpensive. Measure the diameter of the ram on the jack and get that size. They are a split steel collar with two allen headed screws threaded so you can tighten them down on the ram. With the locking collars loose, they just allow the ram to slide through. Tighten when the jack is extended to the correct length. I got one for each wing jack and one for my engine hoist. I can send a photo if needed.
If you have to buy something vs make something just go the local farm store and get hydraulic cylinder stops. A set of various width spring loaded donuts that snap around the shaft. Very secure and don’t depend on properly tightening. Granted, probably more expensive.
RV8Squaz
Well Known Member
One thing that I do is that I don't leave the airplane supported by the jack very long. Before I jack the airplane, I position my shoring blocks, remove the cotter pin, slightly loosen the spindle nut, remove the two caliper bolts, and remove the outboard side of the caliper half. I then jack the airplane, remove the schrader valve and let the air out of the tire, remove the wheel, re-position the shoring blocks under the axle, and let the airplane down. The airplane is supported by the jack for only a few minutes at a time. I built two jacks, but I really only use one at a time.
Safety tip: Always let the air out of tire before removing the spindle nut. And in replacing the tire, don't add a significant amount of air until the wheel is secured on the axle with the spindle nut. I've never seen it happen, but I've heard of wheel bolts failing and tires blowing up when the spindle nut is removed with the tire under pressure.
Safety tip: Always let the air out of tire before removing the spindle nut. And in replacing the tire, don't add a significant amount of air until the wheel is secured on the axle with the spindle nut. I've never seen it happen, but I've heard of wheel bolts failing and tires blowing up when the spindle nut is removed with the tire under pressure.
pitts12driver
Member
Thanks for the suggestions - particularly on the locking collars. I will add them immediately! I am using the Aero Garage Tie Down Rings and Locking Cups and recommend them unconditionally.
Not recommeneded by Vans.
RV’s were not intended to be lifted by the belly. Sure, folks get away with it, but as I have mentioned before, you’re lifting on the belly rib and spar flanges. Can it take it, seems to. Spread the weight out evenly across a wide area, makes sense.
However, you will not find any aircraft of any type that are lifted in this manner. Almost all are lifted by the spar, which inherently is designed to lift the weight of the aircraft. Or, by weldments that do the same.
The only method recommended by Vans are wing jacks.
That will buff right out !
I have a 14 taildragger and lifted it from the tie down location for the first time a few weeks ago. I knew it would be necessary to tie down the tail but shocked that it took 2 1/2 cement blocks plus strapping it down to a small tailwheel tug to keep the tail from lifting. If I was doing it again I would have used an engine hoist hooked to the engine hook for back-up.
(Bolt for jack is threaded into pipe fitting cap and into the wing tie down hole)
(Bolt for jack is threaded into pipe fitting cap and into the wing tie down hole)
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I built a wing jack then used to pipe back stands and a 40" 2 x 8 under the fuse, just in case...seems to be working fine, and is very stable.
Built some jacks a while back same as others and they work great. I just use a 1” socket over the top of the cylinder as a cup and made the wing pin from a grade 8 bolt cut off and then tacked on a washer and nut. Added a rubber washer to shield the wing.
Has worked fine for several years and many tire changes.
YMMV
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