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Bottom Rivets on F-882 / Canopy Rail Receptacle?

inktomi

inktomi

Well Known Member
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I was going to get my aft skin riveted tonight, but I ran into an issue on these three rivets in the bottom of F-882. Any ideas? I tried all my tricks, but because there's both a sloping edge and a flange in the way it's hard to get things into place. Now that I've riveted the rest of it, I see that people bend this flange out of the way to rivet it, then bend it back - I usually am not in the habit of bending my parts so I didn't even think of that. I did try all the other things I could think of, to no avail. I would prefer to not use a pulled rivet here since they'll be visible from the back seat and I'd like them to match. There must be a way!

What else can I do? I'm generally happy with all the other rivets, so I'd rather not drill them out - but I can if that's the only option and I have to bend this part. I also bought a new bucking bar with some hope that it'll help. Does anyone have other ideas for these three holes deep in the receptacle?

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Somehow I set them on my flying 8, but I buggered them up on my current 8 build. Unhappy with the dents in the bulkhead, so should get my replacement part this week. I cut a custom bucking bar today out of some steel stock I have, but am also going to see if my brother can laser this no-hole squeezer yoke for me that I designed. If only my 3D printer would print steel....

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That squeezer yoke looks like it would work. Can he laser two? Or could you share the file for online cutting?
 
That's the one I bought, should be here today. I don't have an angled face like that, hopefully it'll work. I'll let you all know in case someone else finds this thread in the future.

Thank you!
 
inktomi said:
That's the one I bought, should be here today. I don't have an angled face like that, hopefully it'll work. I'll let you all know in case someone else finds this thread in the future.

Thank you!
Click to expand...
Situations like this often require placing the bucking bar right up against the rib/bulkhead. To prevent scuffing and scratches, wrap the contact areas of the bucking bar with duct tape. My compliments on your primer application abilities!
 
The little bucking bar linked above, which you can also get at Aircraft Spruce, is perfect for this job. It can almost just lay in the receptacle and the angle is perfect.

Thank you everyone! I wrapped it in painters tape and that was sufficient to avoid and scuffs in the primer, but the Akzo epoxy primer is pretty tough (I love it!).

TUNGSTEN BUCKING BAR 2" x 1-1/2" x 3/4" from Aircraft Tool Supply

TUNGSTEN BUCKING BAR 2" x 1-1/2" x 3/4" - Tungsten Alloy Bucking weighs almost twice as much as conventional steel which makes it a perfect material for manufacturing a small yet HEAVY Bucking Bar. As you know, the heavier the bar, the easier it is to shoot your rivet.
www.aircraft-tool.com www.aircraft-tool.com

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I may be slow, but I'm persistent. The laser cutting and material were free, so I couldn't really "are you done yet?" too much...
Some laser cut :eek: blanks, the 3D printed prototype, and a finished product. Another tool in the quiver.
BTW, my WEN 1/2" detail belt sander has come in handy a few times. This was one time. Buy one!

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Those turned out great! I would be in line for one (if you've selling the extras) if I hadn't gotten the little bucking bar to work.
 
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