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Bandsaw Mods

DanH

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I've been cutting metal with a converted Taiwan wood bandsaw for decades. Worked fine for aluminum and mild steel, but even with an intermediate reduction pulley in the belt train, blade speed was high enough to make cutting 4130 an iffy proposition. It wasn't a big deal back when blades were cheap, but a decent one is up to $50 now. Something had to give.

So, first thing was to reduce blade speed by a bunch. I added a second reducer in the belt train and fitted a larger wheel to the final drive.

Reduction.jpg

While apart, the second upgrade was a better belt guide. Cheap saws like this one tend to have carbide blocks and maybe one bearing. Here the carbide was about gone, so the guide assembly was replaced with this three-bearing setup, similar to larger saws. Simple design; it's nothing more than a section of 2" mild steel angle with an axle welded in place for the back bearing. The pinch bearings are on 10mm bolts, with machined spacers.

Guide1.jpgGuide2.jpgGuide3.jpg
 
I buy bi-metalic band saw blade from this place. Well worth the price.

Replacing the band saw tires also helped.

My $.02 this morning.

Steve
 
I've been cutting metal with a converted Taiwan wood bandsaw for decades. Worked fine for aluminum and mild steel, but even with an intermediate reduction pulley in the belt train, blade speed was high enough to make cutting 4130 an iffy proposition. It wasn't a big deal back when blades were cheap, but a decent one is up to $50 now. Something had to give.

So, first thing was to reduce blade speed by a bunch. I added a second reducer in the belt train and fitted a larger wheel to the final drive.

View attachment 111197

While apart, the second upgrade was a better belt guide. Cheap saws like this one tend to have carbide blocks and maybe one bearing. Here the carbide was about gone, so the guide assembly was replaced with this three-bearing setup, similar to larger saws. Simple design; it's nothing more than a section of 2" mild steel angle with an axle welded in place for the back bearing. The pinch bearings are on 10mm bolts, with machined spacers.

View attachment 111199View attachment 111200View attachment 111201
Nice. Been on my Project list for a while, but never seems to get done. I was eye balling those 10:1 worm gear reducers.
 
Or build a PWM power supply to slow the saw done.
Ihave one of those speed controllers on my mill. Don’t they require a 3 phase motor to work? At least to provide any meaningful torque. The control unit on my mill required a 3 phase motor. It works great, plenty or torque at any speed. I used a pwm box on my commercial sewing machine (single phase motor). Takes forever to spool up and bogs down under load.
 
So, first thing was to reduce blade speed by a bunch. I added a second reducer in the belt train and fitted a larger wheel to the final drive.
Do you have a side view of your pulley arrangement? I am interested in how you supported the pulleys and the drive train set up.

Thanks, Kevin
 
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