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B & C backup alternator PIREP wanted

Auburntsts

Auburntsts

Well Known Member
Looking for PIREPs on the B & C BC462-H spline-driven alternator paired with the SB1B-14 Controller/Regulator. My second PlanePower FS1-14 Flysafe backup alternator has gone Tango Uniform and Hartzell is telling me only option is to replace it. If that’s the case I’m done with PlanePower and moving on to something else.
 
Auburntsts said:
Looking for PIREPs on the B & C BC462-H spline-driven alternator paired with the SB1B-14 Controller/Regulator. My second PlanePower FS1-14 Flysafe backup alternator has gone Tango Uniform and Hartzell is telling me only option is to replace it. If that’s the case I’m done with PlanePower and moving on to something else.
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I wonder what's wrong with it --- want me to do an autopsy? :D
 
bjdecker said:
I wonder what's wrong with it --- want me to do an autopsy? :D
Click to expand...
Sure, but im kinda of leery of sinking any additional money into it if in the end it’s gonna have to be replaced.. I did replace the voltage regulator/brush assembly but that didn’t fix the issue which is the unit isn’t producing voltage. With the engine not running I’m getting bus voltage at the field and B+ post, and the shear coupling and rotor turn freely. I also didn’t get any weird resistance readings across the slip rings but I only have a digital multimeter and Hartzell tech support wanted me to use an analog ohm meter. In any event it’s a boat anchor at the moment as it is out of warranty and Hartzell doesn’t rebuild this model.
 
Thanks for the Monkworkz recommendation! Just visited the website and read through the MZ-30 manual. My primary alternator is a B&C unit but I like what I see in the MZ-30 both in price and installation as a replacement for my dead backup.
 
Had this setup on my RV7 (as a backup - so lightly used) and have it in the 10 as a permanent alt for the second bus.
15y and > 1000h in the 7 no problem and 400h in the 10 also no problem pulling roughly 15-20A continuous.
So I’m very satisfied with it but If I was looking to do the same now I’d definitely consider the Monkworkz
 
I echo what Richard said.
7 years and 500+ hours on the B&C backup on my -10, no issues at all.

the Monk wasn’t an option when I got mine…
 
The Monkworkz generator is installed in my RV-8 IO-360. The customer service during installation was excellent. Works as advertised.

I’m on my 2nd PlanePower belt driven alternator. Low faith.

I will not buy another PlanePower alt.
 
Auburntsts said:
Looking for PIREPs on the B & C BC462-H spline-driven alternator paired with the SB1B-14 Controller/Regulator. My second PlanePower FS1-14 Flysafe backup alternator has gone Tango Uniform and Hartzell is telling me only option is to replace it. If that’s the case I’m done with PlanePower and moving on to something else.
Click to expand...
The BC410-H is RATED at 20-40 amps but at Lycoming cruise RPM 25-30 amps. Has been a great alternator running continuously as my essential bus power at 12-18 amps. The BC462 is rated at 30-35 amps at Lycoming cruise RPM and I assume very reliable. I wanted to use the BC462 on my 540 and without an angled oil filter adapter it has to too large a diameter. The 410 is close but fits "OK". The Monksworks is a good pad mounted generator but since I have 2 B&C's can stack the voltage regulators for a very easy installation. I think I would also have clearance issues on my 390 with a BC462.

​

 
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Auburntsts said:
Sure, but im kinda of leery of sinking any additional money into it if in the end it’s gonna have to be replaced.. I did replace the voltage regulator/brush assembly but that didn’t fix the issue which is the unit isn’t producing voltage. With the engine not running I’m getting bus voltage at the field and B+ post, and the shear coupling and rotor turn freely. I also didn’t get any weird resistance readings across the slip rings but I only have a digital multimeter and Hartzell tech support wanted me to use an analog ohm meter. In any event it’s a boat anchor at the moment as it is out of warranty and Hartzell doesn’t rebuild this model.
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Measure the resistance of the stator windings leg-to-leg, and then leg(s) to case. Should be about .6ohms and open respectively.

Then measure the diodes in the rectifier.
 
bjdecker said:
Measure the resistance of the stator windings leg-to-leg, and then leg(s) to case. Should be about .6ohms and open respectively.

Then measure the diodes in the rectifier.
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I’m not sure what good that would do other than pinpoint the possible failure point as I can’t repair it.
 
Auburntsts said:
I’m not sure what good that would do other than pinpoint the possible failure point as I can’t repair it.
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I suspect it is all ND parts inside, like their other pp products. Brian will help you figure where to get them. While i would never encourage anyone to buy a pp, you can possibly get yours running again for a minimal investment.
 
lr172 said:
I suspect it is all ND parts inside, like their other pp products. Brian will help you figure where to get them. While i would never encourage anyone to buy a pp, you can possibly get yours running again for a minimal investment.
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Perhaps. I don’t have the time to tinker with this right now especially since I have zero experience with alternator repair and zero documentation. Maybe down the road I’ll crack it open and see what’s what and try to repair it. If successful I can then sell it or keep it as a spare.
 
Monkworkz MZ-30L is a terrific product. I am using it also.

However, without understanding what caused your other alternator to fail, you run the risk of perpetuating a problem -- good money after bad.

Offer still stands, only cost is shipping and time.
 
I have both B & C alternators installed as my main and standby alternators. Can’t beat the quality and they are machined from billet stock ….not a casting. Both have operated flawlessly for over 60 hours. I am the world’s leading expert on my own opinion- so there it is! 😁😁😁
 
bjdecker said:
Monkworkz MZ-30L is a terrific product. I am using it also.

However, without understanding what caused your other alternator to fail, you run the risk of perpetuating a problem -- good money after bad.

Offer still stands, only cost is shipping and time.
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PM sent.
 
Todd,

I just replaced my B&C backup alternator (BC-410) with a Monkworkz at my first condition inspection.
Happy with it so far in a backup role.
Nothing wrong with the B&C, just with an electrically dependent airplane, I was drawn to
the higher current output above 1800RPM. (The B&C was not even close to 30A at 2700RPM, let alone cruise RPM)
Also the self exciting nature of the generator was attractive.
 
AdamB said:
Todd,

I just replaced my B&C backup alternator (BC-410) with a Monkworkz at my first condition inspection.
Happy with it so far in a backup role.
Nothing wrong with the B&C, just with an electrically dependent airplane, I was drawn to
the higher current output above 1800RPM. (The B&C was not even close to 30A at 2700RPM, let alone cruise RPM)
Also the self exciting nature of the generator was attractive.
Click to expand...
Also have an electrically dependent aircraft with 600+ hrs. and agree the Monkworkz is a good alternator but my BC-410 provides more than enough output to my essential bus. (Normal draw ~13 amps continuous) If I loose my primary I'm not going to be flying more than an hour and can load shed to bring it down to the ~ 30 amps I see at 2,400 RPM. If needed could raise that to 2,500 RPM. Results may vary but the BC-410 for my application seems fine. I have tested this in flight shutting down my main B&C alternator and load shedding to ~30 amps while keeping both batteries topped off at 14.0 - 14.2 volts. Readings are from a shunt on my B-lead.

Screenshot 2025-08-12 230653.png
 
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Over 600 hours and 11 years so far on my BC410-H spinning happily along as a backup. Fortunately never *had* to make use of it yet (knock on wood), but I pull the field breaker of my primary alternator in flight every couple of months, and the backup still comes online and moves electrons.
 
Another delighted Monkworkz adopter for it's modern technology, exhaustive design testing and personal customer service. I'll periodically make long flights with the Plane power primary disabled just to reconfirm it's readiness to handle my RV14's 12A typical day cruise electrical load.
 
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