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Avionics Rack - Installation Questions

jackking123

Well Known Member
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Take a look at the pictures, slider RV-7. Panel was cut from 0.0.80 stock. It's more stout than the 0.063 kit part.
I don't have the sub panel placed but it was fitted it, I have to cut an access to allow the longer ICOM IC-A220 to pass through.
I will support ICOM tray with sub panel. The Garmin GPS will be supported by the ICOM, likely just rubber pads on top of the ICOM tray.

If you have any comments, tips, tricks, or wish you could do over, avoid advice appreciate it?

Questions:

Q: #6 or #8 screw to attach rack to brackets?
Plan on using #6 screws and nuts to attach tray to angles. The holes in tray are large but countersunk.
I will need to countersink the angles to get flush. Angles are 0.063 ext angles. Either will work? Yes? Opinions?

Q: Nut plates and just nuts for the tray to angle screws?
I will have access to them in future by removing EFIS to LHS and access on RHS.

Q: Angle to Instrument Panel, Rivets or Screw/Nut or Nut Plate?
Plan is to rivet tray angles to the instrument panel with x4 AN426AD4's not screws/nuts or nut-plates.
I don't see reason these need to be removable from front of panel. I will have access later on.



 
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1) Either 6's or 8's should work just fine. Be sure that the head of the screw won't interfere with the avionics component sliding in and out. Test fit screw clearance on the bench before you decide and make sure the screw has wiggle room while you can watch the component being inserted.

2) If you have clear access to the screw head and the nut with your fingers and tools, it's really up to you. Nut plates are a little more work, but they can't fall onto the floor after they're installed. I've always done nuts if they're on the panel side (aft) of the sub panel.

3) Once those tray mounting angles are in, you're usually done--unless you do a complete panel do-over down the road. I think most people rivet those in and are done with it.
 
1. The countersunk holes on the trays can accommodate #8 but up to you.

2. Being as you have a slider, I would strongly recommend you go to the extra effort of putting nutplates on the angle instead of nuts (and washers). If you, or anyone else after you, ever have to do any work that requires removing that tray, you, and others, will be glad you went the extra step to install nutplates. Once the tray is in place you will have limited access to all the nuts even if you remove the EFIS. You would have to handle a wrench in one hand and a screwdriver in the other in a confined space.

3. The angle on the backside of the panel can be riveted, yes. However, you should also support the tray(s) on the back end of the trays at the subpanel. Plan on installing angle on both sides of the trays at the subpanel also. As for securing multiple radio trays, a simple strap of aluminum spanning vertically from one radio to the next with nutplates and screws strategically placed at the holes in the side of the trays will secure all the radios together.
 
Thanks Gents.... Yep all checks. I finished my installation with #6 and they work the trick. I will rivet angles to panel with AN426AD4's,

I cut the sub panel between instrument panel and firewall and put it in position. The ICOM IC-A220 goes through the sub panel (see picture). I will support the ICOM off that mid bulkhead. I will wait to get it installed in fuselage before installing the angles to get placement. This wood fixture is just so I can start wiring harness. I really like making a fixture... before installing in fuselage.

The Garmin GPS175 is short and does not pernitrate mid bulkhead.

I have space between the ICOM and Garmin, they are not "stacked" with min spacing where the trays touch.
I'll support the Garmin off the ICOM below somehow. I will need to drill extra holes ICOM tray (may be). No mid tray hole.

BTW that open hole on right of panel will have a cover, for behind panel access. It also will be a FUN panel I can cut, install instruments, change them, iPad mount, without butchering the main panel. A replacement panel cover can be made. Hope the pictures help others visualize this.

EIS top middle center required the intercostal to be dimpled (see picture). 3D printed a spacer for the EIS gave it similar bezel thickness as the other avionics, while also giving more spacing to the intercostal. EFIS on left clears left intercostal with a 3/8" no issue and that set it's position by my estimates. A-Team, "I love it when a plan comes together" or dumb luck works sometimes. Ha ha.



 
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Just run a strap from the top tray to support the bottom as RVbySDI said above. Worked for me.
 
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