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A productive day in the hangar

Put a couple of preliminary coats of aerothane Nevada silver... big fan of aerothane, not keen on Nevada silver though. It's seriously tricky to shoot without a mottled appearance. The metallics don't play nice.
In any case I always wet sand between coats so this will be the next step after full cure.Screenshot_20250318_175056_Gallery.jpg
 
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Aerothane is very old technology paint. A very good paint for doing metallic colors is AkzoNobel 4400. You don’t have to anything different than plain colors. Just spray it and it will look good.
 
Nope... that was before 2005ish... it was reformulated for maximum flexibility.
Call Gregg at consolidated if you care to.
I know exactly what your talking about though, because I have some pre reformulated paint.
It's like a cross between skim milk and ranthane. So ya that's ancient tech. I've shot alot of the new aerothane, lots of different colors but the silver just isn't that great. It is however and a flexible base for what comes next.
 
Lots of cracking around the snout, and the fitment of the top and bottom was less than ideal. I ended up grinding back and pottiing the halves together, using glass cloth and smoosh/splooge with t-88, mill fibers and long strand cf. It was a simple job, but lots of steps.Screenshot_20250420_085415_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085435_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085449_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085455_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085500_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085507_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085550_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085555_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085619_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250420_085625_Gallery.jpg
 
Good stuff happened today. If you look at the first pic you'll notice a slight mismatch.. which is completely normal, even with accurately matched paint. In order to
tie the white in and have it match the fuse and keep the stripes I blended it together today. It's looking like its going to work out well enoughScreenshot_20250424_181020_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250424_181110_Gallery.jpg
 
Maximum effort!
Packing tape... cheap quick and effective mold release. Pops right off Screenshot_20250605_214551_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250605_214557_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250605_214626_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250605_214633_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250605_214645_Gallery.jpg
 
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It took 5 minutes to pop the fairing off remove the male mold and trim the part... ok maybe 12.
And no obnoxious clay to dig out.
 
Can’t wait to see the finished product. I had a -3 for a while and loved it, such a great flying airplane.
 
Good stuff happened today. If you look at the first pic you'll notice a slight mismatch.. which is completely normal, even with accurately matched paint. In order to
tie the white in and have it match the fuse and keep the stripes I blended it together today. It's looking like its going to work out well enoughView attachment 85996View attachment 85997
how did you blend this edge exactly? im working through something similar on my rv repainting the cowl and i was told to use a blending spray (i have a single stage paint job)
 
how did you blend this edge exactly? im working through something similar on my rv repainting the cowl and i was told to use a blending spray (i have a single stage paint job)
There is an aerosol product that supposedly allows the blend to happen. Haven't used it. I blend even single stage with clear. Lots of yt videos on this here's a short of the gun technique.

 
Put another 5 hours in today true-ing up the cowling. Also matched the top to bottom intakes as well. Im really hoping this is the one and only coat of high build.
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Awesome, white is the worst dang color to blend or touch up, just awful, you can see everything, stuff like dust, bug leggs and mismatch.
I've found one strategy to be to make the repair as small as possible. When it comes to that part of the job I resort to very small brushes or my airbrush. Next step is the blend after the initial touch up is dry.
If its a cowling top or an area defined by panel lines I blend to those edges with clear and 2 to 3 light coats of the color mixed in with the clear until the clear is clear at the repair edge. With that blending aerosol it should make the repairs stay very small
 
Got to the hangar this morning sanded out the primer with 400 and shot it with this gray aerothane dump paint i keep in a bucket for first layer paint. It allows me to fine tune everything, glazing putty in pinholes scratches etc. Im also going to finish tweaking the hinge line. I find the gloss really helps in sneaking up on the not perfect but "just right " goal. Most of that fist coat gets sanded off.Screenshot_20251014_114802_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251014_114810_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251014_114820_Gallery.jpg
 
Here's a task I've been procrastinating... originally it had just super fill, so I heat gunned it off and bonded glass and resin on instead. Today was time to step into the sandman role and shape it all out, that shiny piece of aluminum is the sanding apron i cut from scrap. Tomorrow will be high fill primer and final pinhole elimination.Screenshot_20251020_141044_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251020_141051_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251020_141100_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251020_141106_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251020_141116_Gallery.jpg
 
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how did you blend this edge exactly? im working through something similar on my rv repainting the cowl and i was told to use a blending spray (i have a single stage paint job)
two kinds of blending. There is color blending, which is a spray technique / process to transition new color to old color to avoid visual detection of paint shade differences found when paint matching. Then there is layer edge blending often called burning in. product posted above blends the edge of the top layers (only before cure) so the physical edge of the layer where the tape was is not visible. There are other burning in techniuques as well, usually for clear.

If you are trying to repaint your cowl and blend/transition the color to your existing fuse, that is not typically done with a spray on blending product. At least not with base/clear. posible that is used on single stage. Many videos, as this is done everyday in collission repair. Color blending single stage is a bit tougher unless you plan to clear over it, as you need to deal with both in the same application. I have no real experience with that. recommend you start a thread to get some help.
 
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Long day today 830am-7pm... im a day behind (wanted to have it in paint yesterday, but today will have to do
The first pic is final sealer on bare fillers and shiners. Second two are the base color. I really like it, its very pewter-ish and the sheen is pretty sweet, but it needs a clear coat. Flat and semi finishes are hell to keep clean... and on aircraft..... that would be a sukfest! I'm shooting the star/bar tomorrow.


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Shot black today... I've taken to shooting my bellies with dark colors, as even the best highest quality catalyzed paint will oil stain. I'm using the p51 from the pic as a loose inspiration for my cammo pattern, although ill be using a blue candy mid coat over silver, similar to the poberezny p51Screenshot_20251029_183856_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251029_181837_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251029_182140_Gallery.jpg
 
Things are getting better all the time!Screenshot_20251030_185728_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251030_185759_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251030_185803_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251030_185837_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20251030_185751_Gallery.jpg
Will likely be doing a checkered spinner and rudder... the scheme was dictated buy the fact that we love the way l the cowl cheeks look in the silver... lol
.. it could change to checker nose and striped spinner.
 
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