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3D Printed Wheel Chock for my RV

DeltaRomeo

DeltaRomeo

doug reeves: unfluencer
Staff member
…playing around with some software and knocked this out in about 15 minutes while the wifey was watching Law and Order. I’ll print one, and if it fits under my wheel pants I’ll print the other five. If it looks like dog$&it I’ll change it 😜
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I’m finding this a fun way to mod the RV experience while resting in the evening chair. Telling you ANYONE can do this. Trust me….if I can you can.

Waiting for my printer to ship. Couple days out…

I’m planning on working up a sticky in the 3D section with attachments of the stuff I work up (or others if they want to). It will contain a listing of cheap ways to get your stuff printed, maybe even people with printers willing to help you out. I think you might like playing with this.

Neat stuff and entertaining.

v/r,dr


PS: Here’s the FREE software I’m using. Install it and watch the 10 minute video it recommends to get you started - that’s really all you need to design stuff like this.
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While "holing" it looks cool, you'll end up with a bunch of supports and rougher looking holes. Might as well make it "solid" and use the internal fill settings in the slicer to add lightness and strength. Like any fabrication method, you need to consider the tool limitations. The Bambu slicer will help optimize orientation and support settings, but you can help on the design side too. Sometimes splitting the model in the slicer and then gluing together will make the print more straightforward too. All fun!
 
fl-mike said:
While "holing" it looks cool, you'll end up with a bunch of supports and rougher looking holes. Might as well make it "solid" and use the internal fill settings in the slicer to add lightness and strength. Like any fabrication method, you need to consider the tool limitations. The Bambu slicer will help optimize orientation and support settings, but you can help on the design side too. Sometimes splitting the model in the slicer and then gluing together will make the print more straightforward too. All fun!
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Mike is spot on. Designing is one part looks, one part functionality and one part structural. You may want to consider looking at TPU or another grippy material as PLA, PETG, ABS may not provide the tarmac grab you are looking for in a design like that.

Regardless, designing is a fun challenge and dont be afraid to make mistakes. Filament is cheap.

If you just want something quick, you can always search makerworld to see what is out there. 218 different wheel chocks.
 
DeltaRomeo said:
…playing around with some software and knocked this out in about 15 minutes while the wifey was watching Law and Order. I’ll print one, and if it fits under my wheel pants I’ll print the other five. If it looks like dog$&it I’ll change it 😜
View attachment 77970
View attachment 77972

I’m finding this a fun way to mod the RV experience while resting in the evening chair. Telling you ANYONE can do this. Trust me….if I can you can.

Waiting for my printer to ship. Couple days out…

I’m planning on working up a sticky in the 3D section with attachments of the stuff I work up (or others if they want to). It will contain a listing of cheap ways to get your stuff printed, maybe even people with printers willing to help you out. I think you might like playing with this.

Neat stuff and entertaining.

v/r,dr


PS: Here’s the FREE software I’m using. Install it and watch the 10 minute video it recommends to get you started - that’s really all you need to design stuff like this.
View attachment 77971
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What printer did you get?
 
DeltaRomeo said:
Bambu P1S
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That’s what I have…you are going to love it.

I got mine a year ago Black Friday, and I have it printing almost all time that I am home.

I have only had three failed prints and they were user error; you need to make SURE you have selected the correct printer before sending it. I have had great luck with the standard profiles.

Did you get the hardened nozzle and extruder gears?
 
I realize you are doing this for fun, and it sounds like you are getting your feet wet with this one, but have you considered how much material and time will be needed to print this?. I would think you will need one real of filament to print just one chock with sufficient structure to be strong and durable enough. Have you calculated the run time? I suspect, it will be more than you expect. Sorry if I am being a Debbie Downer, have fun with your new printer.
 
mstrauss said:
I realize you are doing this for fun, and it sounds like you are getting your feet wet with this one, but have you considered how much material and time will be needed to print this?. I would think you will need one real of filament to print just one chock with sufficient structure to be strong and durable enough. Have you calculated the run time? I suspect, it will be more than you expect. Sorry if I am being a Debbie Downer, have fun with your new printer.
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Unless these are 10 feet long, they'll use next to nothing for filament. With a normal infill (even 15% is usually fine for most needs - maybe a bit more for chocks) and a few perimeter layers, these will be light and plenty strong enough while using very little filament.
 
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DeltaRomeo said:
Planned on first printing of chock being 7” long
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I would agree with a previous post about the holes…when you slice it, you will see all the supports required.

Also, try not to use grid infill, there are better options and they don’t cause the potential issues that grid does..
 
Found these on thingverse or printables. Free download. Lightweight but strong with 40% infill. Been using for a year and work well. I like the low lip as the wheel can roll onto the chock and hold it in-place. Also printed some with fuzzy skin to help with grip. Can’t tell that it makes any difference when used in a pair with a bungee through the holes.

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I did a simple triangle, with say 40% infill. When you run it through the slicer orient the part vertically to increase the part strength and make printing simpler. Making the interior hollow is simpler to print since you won’t need any support structure. Use a large brim maybe 10 mm to improve adhesion to the build plate.

Perhaps dip or spray with plasti dip. Not sure if this stuff will stick or hold up.

Enjoy the 3d printing experience, lots of fun things you can make and design. I like using nylon as it holds up better to heat. Downside it is really difficult to print without modifications to the printer.
 
If you got the combo with ams, you can print your n numbers in a different color during the print.

Either way, embossed or printed, you could orient face down and use adaptive cubic fill for strength. I would probably use at least 4 walls and I like 5 layers for top and bottom.
 
ve0kog said:
i faked my way in Prusa and sent it to the library to print using Red PLA (to match the cowl plugs :). They estimate 154 grams/14 hours and $29 to make a set...
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FWIW PLA softens at 57C (134F) which is pretty easy to reach for a wheel chock. 1KG of PLA costs about $15..

ASA or PA6 or ABS are better choices if available but they require a printer with an enclosure and hotbed.
 
jacoby said:
FWIW PLA softens at 57C (134F) which is pretty easy to reach for a wheel chock. 1KG of PLA costs about $15..
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Well, I do not mind to support my local library :)
Sounds like this is going to be a winter time/hangar chock..

The other material available was PETG, ABS, or Resin.
 
The veteran CAD guys already know this but the McMaster Carr website has thousands of items that include CAD files that will import into your 3D printer.
So when your machine arrives you can make all types hardware related things instead of little boats and other useless trinkets.:)
 
ve0kog said:
Well, I do not mind to support my local library :)
Sounds like this is going to be a winter time/hangar chock..

The other material available was PETG, ABS, or Resin.
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Yeah always good to support the local library!

If you can change the order to use ABS instead of PLA they’ll last a lot longer. That said the PLA will do its job but you’ll get some texturing from the tarmac and tires in warm weather.
 
dpansier said:
The veteran CAD guys already know this but the McMaster Carr website has thousands of items that include CAD files that will import into your 3D printer.
So when your machine arrives you can make all types hardware related things instead of little boats and other useless trinkets.:)
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Yep. I did exactly that when I needed a plug to slow down the drip of oil from the oil temp sensor plug hole in the 182 after filling the crankcase with 8 gallons of oil to try and pickle it (thanks Helene!). It came out a bit oversized but worked well enough for the 20 min and $0.02 it cost.
 
Used to be a really great (and long) thread on here with a lot of great 3D printed ideas... was it not migrated over from the old site? [ed. Working on a 3D printing repository of sorts here on VAF for 2025 that you might enjoy. All interested should benefit. Give me a few weeks to get it organized. v/r,dr]
 
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If you want to go with something like a rubber style chock, you could try printing with a flex type filament like BASF Ultrafuse® TPU 64D.

One note on printing ABS, it trends to warp when printing large flat items. I have pretty much switched to ASA for anything that goes outdoors and needs UV, temp, and chemical resistance, and it's easier to print than ABS. You still need an enclosure and some fairly high nozzle and heatbed temps to be successful. Anything that goes in the engine compartment is Nylon infused with carbon fiber (NylonX) or Polycarbonate infused with Carbon Fiber (PCCF). Do your prototypes in PLA to save some money.
 
jacoby said:
Yeah always good to support the local library!

If you can change the order to use ABS instead of PLA they’ll last a lot longer. That said the PLA will do its job but you’ll get some texturing from the tarmac and tires in warm weather.
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My pla+ chocks are holding up pretty well here in the Midwest. Parked on hot tamps over the summer
 
Update on Free VAF 3D Printed Wheel Chock.😜

Enjoying playing around w/this. Test printed the prototype and got a couple pics under the wheel pant of my RV-6 to see how it fits. Pushed and tugged. I intend for it to be smaller than the ‘usual’ chock…a complete 6-piece set should easily fit in your back pocket. The tailwheel chock is the same design, only not as wide. I plan on modding it a bit, but when I’m happy I’ll get them uploaded so you can download for free if interested.
Current print done with .4 nozzle. Using .2 next.

Fun times for sure!

More when I have it - having fun playing and learning as I go,
dr
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