RV10 Final Hole Size Parts

[NickC]

Hello All,

Has anyone managed to get additional guidance from Vans regarding parts shipping with Final Hole Size? From the updated Section 5 it says "most components" in the RV-10 are punched to final size except for some components specified in the manual. In reviewing the changelog for the Vstab, Rudder, and Hstab instructions (I'm clearly still on the tail kit) I don't see where they updated the instructions to reflect what is and isn't final sized. This is also apparent by inspecting the parts as the rivets fit in most holes just fine prior to dimpling. I continued to "final-size" the holes as I just assumed they were still undersized a tad since the instructions still clearly say to match drill and final size the holes. I had a few stubborn spots where the rib flanges/holes kept shifting alignment with the skin after a cleco was removed in order to drill to "final-size" and then that caused the hole to be oblonged. This wouldn't be too big of a deal if the holes were undersized as they were in the past as there would be slight shifting of the hole but the holes would still be within spec of MIL-R-47196A but because the holes come final sized the extra drilling caused the holes to be oblong and out of spec.

I am still very much a noob with the metal work and still learning tips/tricks from this community and YouTube (getting better every day) but the oversized holes created by following a step that was unnecessary in reality is very frustrating. I submitted a help ticket but I will be going to OSH next week and plan to discuss this with them in person. Before chatting with them I'm curious if anyone has gotten a solid definition on what steps are actually unnecessary from Vans. Reviewing some of the threads about this topic it seems to be a mix of how people treat this issue but no actual feedback from Vans (unless I missed a thread).

Any feedback or suggestions is much appreciated!

 

[kirkbauer]

In my experience, all cut and punched aluminum (with the blue film) are final sized for #40 holes. Steel and special aluminum pieces aren't. It's pretty easy to check -- I just grab a #40 reamer and if it slides in easily to a few holes on a piece then I assume the rest are already final.

I don't think any of the plans have been updated to reflect this. But as I said it's not hard to verify. What can be annoying is once in a while there are pre-assembly steps that end up being only about match drilling so you may waste a few minutes assembling and then don't actually need to match drill anything.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

This is also apparent by inspecting the parts as the rivets fit in most holes just fine prior to dimpling. I continued to "final-size" the holes as I just assumed they were still undersized a tad since the instructions still clearly say to match drill and final size the holes.

I had a few stubborn spots where the rib flanges/holes kept shifting alignment with the skin after a cleco was removed in order to drill to "final-size" and then that caused the hole to be oblonged.

If a rivet will insert into a hole, that is a tell that the entire part has final sized holes.

Holes that don't fully align are often cause by the part not being properly straightened / fluted.

 

[NickC]

Thank you both for your responses! Ok that's what I expected/hoped would be the accepted path forward.

Holes that don't fully align are often cause by the part not being properly straightened / fluted.

Completely agree- those are my errors as I'm still getting my structure workflow/skills developed. Luckily most parts are relatively cheap so far and re-ordering to get things right, especially now that I don't have to do a bunch of assembly/disassembly to final size parts, is the best way to go.

Appreciate the guidance from those with the experience!

 

[Dr_Dave_MT]

Thank you both for your responses! Ok that's what I expected/hoped would be the accepted path forward.



Completely agree- those are my errors as I'm still getting my structure workflow/skills developed. Luckily most parts are relatively cheap so far and re-ordering to get things right, especially now that I don't have to do a bunch of assembly/disassembly to final size parts, is the best way to go.

Appreciate the guidance from those with the experience!

I have a small wooden dowel with a -3 rivet glued to one end, a -4 on the other to check holes.
If it fits, you must con….


As others have noted the CNC punched parts generally have the blue vinyl.
Where it says “Final Drill” but the holes are not, I.e. either still 3/32” or 1/8” I would suggest buying a #40 and #30 reamer to final size the hole. Less chance of egg-shaping the holes.

- cappy

 

[tldavis]

Some holes start 1/8 or 3/32 and a #30 or #40 reamer is helpful to give the rivets room. If it doesn’t quite fit you can either use an awl to get the parts lined up better and stretch the hole just a tiny bit, or if that’s not enough ream to #size and debur. Of course deburring is only a good option when the part isn’t riveted at all yet. Drilling (and probably reaming) in final position might send chips between faying surfaces, you don’t want that. Best to disassemble and debur, clean and maybe prime. Patience and finesse will get you a long way.