Multimeter for the RV-12iS

[rv12iS-builder]

Electrical newbie question: Is there a multimeter that is especially well suited for the RV-12iS and Rotax 912iS engine? The only thing I know is that Van's required tool list for the RV-12iS says to get a multimeter with continuity check capability. If you built an RV-12iS, which multimeter did you use?

Thanks!

 

[Jonas1ne]

No special “Rotax” multimeter is needed.
Most RV-12iS builders use a Fluke 115 or Fluke 117 because they’re reliable and have a fast, clear continuity beep exactly what Van’s is getting at.
Budget option: Klein MM600/MM700 works fine too.
If you want one that just works and lasts, go Fluke 117.

 

[D-Dubya]

+1 for Fluke. Don't try to save a few bucks and go cheap. Many people that have done that end up getting a Fluke eventually anyway.

 

[ravenstar]

I’ve had an inexpensive Klein for over a decade and it has been sufficient for my RV-12 project.

 

[N8DAV8R]

I'll offer the other perspective. In general I prefer and advocate for high quality 'luxury' tools. In that respect the Fluke is a worthwhile investment.

That said, for the task, it would be hard to find a meter that was not sufficient. You don't need to spend hundreds on a meter to accomplish what is necessary on your build. You can walk into any big box store, probably even a lot of gas stations, and buy a meter that will work. Continuity is the most basic function a meter performs. They all do it.

 

[N804RV]

You don't need an expensive multimeter for 98% of what you'll use it for. The inexpensive Klein multimeter will work just fine for testing continuity, checking for voltage, eyeballing ac ripple, and getting an idea of how much current a circuit is drawing. Think of it like its scrambling eggs, not making a soufflé.

Its that 2% that you'll need a real 4-line miliohmmeter and eventually an antenna analyzer. That's when you want to make sure you've got better quality avionics test equipment. But those can often be borrowed.

 

[N8DAV8R]

Its that 2% that you'll need a real 4-line miliohmmeter and eventually an antenna analyzer. That's when you want to make sure you've got better quality avionics test equipment. But those can often be borrowed.

FWIW, I am regularly flying the RV-12is that I built and I have absolutely no idea what this refers to.

Sounds interesting and good learning opportunity, but probably not relevant to what is posed as a very specific question about building the RV-12is.

 

[N804RV]

FWIW, I am regularly flying the RV-12is that I built and I have absolutely no idea what this refers to.

Sounds interesting and good learning opportunity, but probably not relevant to what is posed as a very specific question about building the RV-12is.

There are a lot of builders out there that have never an antenna analyzer or a milliohmmeter. And that's fine as long as everything works. Its when you have weird electrical gripes, unexplained starter problems or are constantly getting dinged for weak and unreadable coms that those tools have to come out after the fact. Checking your grounds, and checking your coax/antenna VSWR as you build is a little insurance if you have access to the tools.

 

[Norman CYYJ]

There are a lot of builders out there that have never an antenna analyzer or a milliohmmeter. And that's fine as long as everything works. Its when you have weird electrical gripes, unexplained starter problems or are constantly getting dinged for weak and unreadable coms that those tools have to come out after the fact. Checking your grounds, and checking your coax/antenna VSWR as you build is a little insurance if you have access to the tools.

Yes it is nice to have these tools but if you don't know what they are or understand what to do with them, its a waste of money.

 

[cvairwerks]

For simple electrical work, I'll argue for getting an analog meter over a digital. Unless you are troubleshooting down to half volt or smaller increments, a digital is not needed. Same thing with doing continuity checks. Unless you need low ohm readings, with the analog, if the meter moves, the circuit has continuity.

An older Simpson 260 Series 6 or prior can be had generally for 50 bucks or less, might need to get some leads, depending on the seller's deal. They are easy to read, dead simple to use and robust enough to be almost bulletproof in the field and will last for generations.

I've got a Simpson, a couple of Flukes, including a bench model and several throwaway very cheap digitals. I will almost always grab the Simpson first for anything but bench work.