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Rudder stop product

Fenderbean

Well Known Member
Hello, I am update the lower hing/rudder stop with SB and I had found this product, seems a bit more forgiving since its not metal hitting metal.
any thoughts on it, worth it?
 
Installed on my -7's and -14 and would do so again.

I don't like the external brackets slamming into the rudder control arms.

I would like to add something similar at the other two hinge points -- just to spread the force evenly across the rudder front spar when it contacts the stop(s).
 
Awesome, Im assuming you guys leave off the aluminum part that comes from Vans?

The -14 and the -7 are different than the 10, but checking the plans (Section 6, Page 6-4) I don't see why you would include the R-1007Bs. The R-1007As go on the rudder as per plans (Section 7, Page 7-10).

FWIW, I installed the plastic stop in between the two lower hinge brackets (In the 10 these are the VS-1010s) instead of on top of the top bracket. This provides more strength to the stop.

@rocketman1988 Bob can comment if the stock plastic part will work or is a different version available for the -10...and you can make your own from a spare cutting board if you're feeling adventurous...
 
Roger that, I was going to install between and if needed add the washer to fill the space between the upper and lower supports per the instructions on the website.
 
Hello, I am update the lower hing/rudder stop with SB and I had found this product, seems a bit more forgiving since its not metal hitting metal.
any thoughts on it, worth it?
Worth it but will not take the place of a gust lock.........
 
The -14 and the -7 are different than the 10, but checking the plans (Section 6, Page 6-4) I don't see why you would include the R-1007Bs. The R-1007As go on the rudder as per plans (Section 7, Page 7-10).

FWIW, I installed the plastic stop in between the two lower hinge brackets (In the 10 these are the VS-1010s) instead of on top of the top bracket. This provides more strength to the stop.

@rocketman1988 Bob can comment if the stock plastic part will work or is a different version available for the -10...and you can make your own from a spare cutting board if you're feeling adventurous...
Yes, I had to modify it just a bit to fit on my -10...
 
I made one of these for my10. However, users must carefully inspect that hinge bracket on a regular basis if rudder is exposed to ground wind forces without a gust lock. This device puts a LOT more stress on that bracket than it was designed for. The arm distance from the bearings ctr to the stop is very short, yet the rudder is very long. This is a major force multiplier. The designed stops are probably 6-8 times further away and therefore 6-8 times less force on that bracket.
 
I made one of these for my10. However, users must carefully inspect that hinge bracket on a regular basis if rudder is exposed to ground wind forces without a gust lock. This device puts a LOT more stress on that bracket than it was designed for. The arm distance from the bearings ctr to the stop is very short, yet the rudder is very long. This is a major force multiplier. The designed stops are probably 6-8 times further away and therefore 6-8 times less force on that bracket.
Take a look at this again:

Screenshot 2026-03-18 at 9.00.38 AM.png

6 to 8 times? I'm not seeing that...at least not with the RV-10 design. Remember, the -10 is different than the rest of the fleet in this regard.

If anything, the plastic is "better" as it spreads the energy out to both VS-1010 brackets (instead of the 3 rivets in the R-1007B taking it in shear). The plastic has a larger contact area, 0.375"H vs 0.125"H which reduces the PSI at the Rudder Contact (R-1007As).
 
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Take a look at this again:

View attachment 112720

6 to 8 times? I'm not seeing that...at least not with the RV-10 design. Remember, the -10 is different than the rest of the fleet in this regard.

If anything, the plastic is "better" as it spreads the energy out to both VS-1010 brackets (instead of the 3 rivets in the R-1007B taking it in shear). The plastic has a larger contact area, 0.375"H vs 0.125"H which reduces the PSI at the Rudder Contact (R-1007As).
What plane is this for? my -10 was nothing like this. Heres mine:
1773847494729.png
 
Take a look at this again:

View attachment 112720

6 to 8 times? I'm not seeing that...at least not with the RV-10 design. Remember, the -10 is different than the rest of the fleet in this regard.

If anything, the plastic is "better" as it spreads the energy out to both VS-1010 brackets (instead of the 3 rivets in the R-1007B taking it in shear). The plastic has a larger contact area, 0.375"H vs 0.125"H which reduces the PSI at the Rudder Contact (R-1007As).
This is not the most current version, check the SB000002 update there is a new bracket and way to do this part of the kit. My tail kit is from 2007 and I bought it back recently and this SB was not done on the Vertical orig. I called vans and ordered the SB kit that covers it, cheers!
 
Internal stops have been a hot button, but reality says there both lessons and differences between models.

Note the original RV-10 stops riveted to a single hinge bracket, and that hinge bracket was manufactured with a single transverse bend. The internal stop broke that bracket. The SB upgraded to a substantially more robust hinge bracket assembly with wrap ends. That's the lesson.

Other RV models (7 and 8 for example) were not originally designed with internal stops, yet folks liked to add them as an "upgrade". Note those models have hinge brackets similar to the original RV-10 bracket which developed cracks. As compared to external stops built per plans, a 7 or 8 with an internal stop does indeed subject the hinge bracket to much higher loads. If they crack, it will be in the same area as the original RV-10 bracket, and any such installation should be checked regularly.

Yeah, I know, the aftermarket nylon internal stop on a 7 or 8 loads both brackets rather than just one. However, note the difference in hinge bracket attachment, bolts for the RV-10, but rivets on the others.

7 and 8 hinge:

ScreenHunter_3166 Mar. 18 10.59.jpg

ScreenHunter_3167 Mar. 18 11.19.jpg
 
For anyone interested, the fly stop requires WAAAAAY more than just trimming for the stop. Since its made for the old standard flat brackets, you have to shape the entire piece to the new bracket
 

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For anyone interested, the fly stop requires WAAAAAY more than just trimming for the stop. Since its made for the old standard flat brackets, you have to shape the entire piece to the new bracket
Now that you’ve done this for the new style bracket, would you recommend it to others?
 
Now that you’ve done this for the new style bracket, would you recommend it to others?
I think so, I just wasn’t expecting to have to mod it some much. I like not having metal hitting metal and as long as it holds up being thinner I don’t see why it’s still not a good simple thing to add. If I did the stock metal I would still add a rubber stopper over it just in case.
 
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