Van's Air Force

The definitive Van's Aircraft support community! Buying, building or flying an RV? Join our exclusive family of mentors and enthusiasts!

Mag drop

mnmisage

Member
Hi all,

Last week, I flew a cross country from Texas to Colorado in my ELSA RV-12 with a 912 ULS and it performed perfectly. It was parked on the ground for a week in Colorado and on the trip home, I noticed a change in the RPM during runup. When I switched mag B off, my rpm drop was 160ish rpm which is 40 to 50 rpm more than usual and a little rougher than usual. Since it was well within spec, we carried on with the flight and all seemed well until I tried climbing to 9500 ft. It was only then that I noticed that the engine was a bit down on power. Other than that, it was a smooth flight home and I figured I would sort it out this week during the 300 hr Rotax inspection. I still had the original Rotax plugs in so I decided to change those even though I only use 100LL around 25% of the time and always with Decalin. During the inspection, I replaced the Rotax plugs with NGK and as usual the front plugs were sootier than the back. I usually run 93 octane mogas but have recently been flying more long cross countries with 100LL so they did look slightly “leadier”. I did a leakdown compression test and all cylinders were essentially 80/80 as usual. I weighed the floats which were fine and I removed and cleaned the idle jets while the carbs were off. After buttoning everything back up, I did a runup and found I still had the 50 rpm difference in drop. Having read every thread I could concerning changes in mag drop, I decided to reseat the plug caps that mag A controls so I cut 3/8” off the plug wires on 1&2 top and 3&4 bottom, put a dab of dielectric on the wire, and screwed the caps back on. After running up the engine, there was no improvement. I read somewhere that you should repeat the runup with 50% choke and see if there is a change in the behavior of the problem. If there is, the problem is more than likely the carbs. Well… I tried it 4 times and in 3 out of 4, there was no improvement. Clear as mud. Tomorrow, I was thinking of checking the wiring in the connections to the ignition modules but would love some suggestions as to what I should try next.

Thanks,

Mark Misage
 
I have experienced these same symptoms and tried all the remedies mentioned. Most often I get a clean CDI drop but sometimes a bit more drop and some roughness. At 1000TT… I now just accept this. The procedure I have adopted is to check the ignitions in the air. On almost every flight, I cycle the ignitions when engine is running near 5500 RPM and making > 70% power. This test always demonstrates smooth running on either CDI ignition and very little A-B drop.

As an aside… I always announce to my passenger when I’m going to cycle the ignitions in the air, just in case there is a problem. I often fly to the islands in western Lake Erie. I always check ignitions before flying over vast stretch of water...
 
Thanks, Jim!

Next chance I get, I will try the in air 5500 rpm mag check. I still have the suspicion that something isn’t right. The ignition checks always gave me a 100 or 110 rpm drop for each circuit with very little if any differential and the engine ran smoothly on just one circuit. The larger rpm drop and rougher running on one circuit worries me.
 
Thanks, Jim!

Next chance I get, I will try the in air 5500 rpm mag check. I still have the suspicion that something isn’t right. The ignition checks always gave me a 100 or 110 rpm drop for each circuit with very little if any differential and the engine ran smoothly on just one circuit. The larger rpm drop and rougher running on one circuit worries me.
Also, do ignition check after landing with engine at operating temp. My bet is you will see smooth running on either CDI and very little differential...
 
I still had the original Rotax plugs in so I decided to change those even though I only use 100LL around 25% of the time and always with Decalin. During the inspection, I replaced the Rotax plugs with NGK and as usual the front plugs were sootier than the back.
When you changed from Rotax plugs to NGK plugs you changed the boots also, right?
 
When you changed from Rotax plugs to NGK plugs you changed the boots also, right?
After changing the plugs to NGK and seeing no improvement from the Rotax plugs, I removed and reinstalled the boots controlled by switch A on freshly cut wires. No change.
 
I have the same issue when running on A , however I keep in mind that Rotax allows a 300 rpm drop and 150 between both A and B...I have done everything you have done plus installing a new A module which by the way has an updated part number. My carbs have recently been to Lockwood for overhaul. The bottom line is like Jim said, learn to live with it, just the nature of the beast...however if you find a solution please share it :)
 
Did your issue with the rpm drop at mag check just all of a sudden appear or did it gradually change? My ignition drops were always around 100-110 rpm on each ignition until this last trip, when on a mag check, the A ignition went to 150-160. Other than running more 100LL than usual, nothing else changed and I hadn’t even had the top cowling off! I will keep searching and post a solution if I find one.
 
The only Rotax service letter that I have seen for ignitions was introducing a new and improved soft start ignition module. I just did another search and found nothing else. Did I miss something?
 
Had not seen that SL but probably just tuned it out as I have a legacy 12 with the 912 ULS.

The good news is that the problem is solved! I went to the hangar today and removed the rest of the plug caps, trimmed the plug wires, and screwed them back on with a dab of dielectric grease on the end of the wires. I also cleaned the inside of each plug cap with a q-tip that was damp with a little DeOxit solution. I then wiped off any residual solution from the inside of each plug cap with a with a dry q-tip and reinstalled. After I started and warmed up, I did the runup and ended up with smaller rpm drops than I have ever seen, around 80 rpm!

Thanks to everyone for the tips and suggestions. I can’t be sure but I think the issue was the inside of the plug caps being dirty (maybe with carbon from arcing???).
 
Back
Top