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Dremel tool?

jdm1248

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I am preparing to cut vent opening for additional rear NACA vents on RV-10. Would a Dremel tool be a good way to make this cutout? I have an old one that gave up but was thinking of getting another one. Assuming it is a good tool to use, would it need to be one of the more powerful plug in models or does a more portable rechargeable one work out better for this and other tasks down the road? Thanks for any advice!
 
Dremel works well with a cut off wheel. Definately don't bother with a cordless. No power. Buy a good Dremel brand. I've had knock offs. They are just ok.
Don't cut near the line. Use a burr to get closer then a sanding drum to finish
 
Dremel works well with a cut off wheel. Definately don't bother with a cordless. No power. Buy a good Dremel brand. I've had knock offs. They are just ok.
Don't cut near the line. Use a burr to get closer then a sanding drum to finish
thank you!
 
Dremel works well with a cut off wheel. Definately don't bother with a cordless. No power. Buy a good Dremel brand. I've had knock offs. They are just ok.
Don't cut near the line. Use a burr to get closer then a sanding drum to finish
I DEFINITELY disagree with "don't buy cordless".

I just recycled all my corded dremels; I bought the Dremel 8260 brushless cordless tool.

Probably the best Dremel I have ever had. As far as power goes, it has more than enough, and it is speed controlled. If you load it up it will automatically try to maintain the selected rpm. I would put it up against corded dremels without hesitation...in fact, it has 20% MORE power than dremels most powerful corded version, the 4250.
 
I DEFINITELY disagree with "don't buy cordless".

I just recycled all my corded dremels; I bought the Dremel 8260 brushless cordless tool.

Probably the best Dremel I have ever had. As far as power goes, it has more than enough, and it is speed controlled. If you load it up it will automatically try to maintain the selected rpm. I would put it up against corded dremels without hesitation...in fact, it has 20% MORE power than dremels most powerful corded version, the 4250.
I can't comment on the cordless vs corded Dremel tool but have had my corded one for decades and it still works well. I have had to take it apart once to re-lubricate the bearings. You will find it is one of your most-used tools! I won't tell you how many different types of bits I have.......... :LOL:
 
I DEFINITELY disagree with "don't buy cordless".

I just recycled all my corded dremels; I bought the Dremel 8260 brushless cordless tool.

Probably the best Dremel I have ever had. As far as power goes, it has more than enough, and it is speed controlled. If you load it up it will automatically try to maintain the selected rpm. I would put it up against corded dremels without hesitation...in fact, it has 20% MORE power than dremels most powerful corded version, the 4250.
Ok. Buy the cordless.
 
Im definitely going to get a dremel tool for fiberglass work. Should I get the 1.2 amp 1.6 amp or 1.8 amp model?
Hey Steve - ya’ gotta have a Dremel, regardless, and you’ll use it (and it’s a TOOL, so ya’ gottta have one….) - but I find I use cheap angle grinders from Harbor Fright more on fiberglass - both straight (with a sanding drum on the end) and angle (with 2” ROLOC sanding discs). They will get fiberglass dust in them, and eventually self destruct - but they’re cheap….
 
I love my Milwaukee M12 brushless version.
Also agree about the flex shaft, makes precision cutting / grinding / deburring way easier.
 
Im definitely going to get a dremel tool for fiberglass work. Should I get the 1.2 amp 1.6 amp or 1.8 amp model?
I have a Dremel 4300 (1.8A). I bought it off FB Marketplace for a steal. It was new in box. It's corded. :LOL: Works great. If I hadn't bought it so cheap, I probably would have bought a cordless. I use cut off wheels for most cut work on fiberglass. I made my own countersink by grinding a small grinding bit. Works fine. Stop shy and finish with a hand tool. I had the HF tool. It was ok. Not as powerful, but did the job.

I also have the big HF die grinder Paul mentioned. It's a beast. Be careful. Spins like 30K RPM. One speed.

My cordless angle grinder is almost as powerful as it's HF 110V brother. With flapper sanding disks, it will really blow through rough sanding fiberglass.

The cordless 1" mini belt sander is super useful too. It will shape curves nicely. HF sells one.

I do like cordless. Just funnin'!

I don't like chargers from all the different manufacturers. All my cordless tools are Ryobi. I don't recommend the brand. They are ok, but not as powerful or reliable as others. Since I have so many, I'm stuck.
 
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I have a Dremel 4300 (1.8A). I bought it off FB Marketplace for a steal. It was new in box. It's corded. :LOL: Works great. If I hadn't bought it so cheap, I probably would have bought a cordless. I use cut off wheels for most cut work on fiberglass. I made my own countersink by grinding a small grinding bit. Works fine. Stop shy and finish with a hand tool. I had the HF tool. It was ok. Not as powerful, but did the job.

I also have the big HF die grinder Paul mentioned. It's a beast. Be careful. Spins like 30K RPM. One speed.

My cordless angle grinder is almost as powerful as it's HF 110V brother. With flapper sanding disks, it will really blow through rough sanding fiberglass.

The cordless 1" mini belt sander is super useful too. It will shape curves nicely. HF sells one.

I do like cordless. Just funnin'!

I don't like chargers from all the different manufacturers. All my cordless tools are Ryobi. I don't recommend the brand. They are ok, but not as powerful or reliable as others. Since I have so many, I'm stuck.

That’s what happened with my old dewalts.

The old nicd batteries stop taking a charge and they hadn’t come out with the brushless yet so I put the whole bundle on marketplace, sold it, and went back to Milwaukee M18 Fuel. They aren’t cheap but they really work well for everything I do.

One thing I did just find was a 3/8” chuck with a 1/4” hex drive. Put it in the compact brushless impact and it makes a spectacular small drill.
 
That is per each point. I found RSHughes.com has them and they will sell them individually. You can find them cheaper but you have to buy a case, which would be around $350.

As far as how long they last, if you are doing light deburring on a surface as opposed to running on an edge, they last a good while. If you are running up and down an edge, not too long.

I am using them for all the little corners you can’t easily get to.

Yes, I am likely doing more than necessary but…🤷‍♂️
 
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