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Control Approach Pedals + Beringer Master Photos

Everwild

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Anyone have reference photos of the current version of Control Approach Pedals and Beringer master cylinders assembled together?

I have a pretty good idea of how it should all go together but was curious where others ended up.

One question... Beringer supplies AN bolts and locking nuts and Control Approach supplies clevis pins and cotter pins. Curious as to the pros and cons of one over the other. I feel like the bolts and nuts would allow for a little less play in the overall assembly since you can snug things up to the level of tolerance one would like. Probably overthinking it but wanted to make sure I'm assembling this combo with best practices in mind.
 
Anyone have reference photos of the current version of Control Approach Pedals and Beringer master cylinders assembled together?

I have a pretty good idea of how it should all go together but was curious where others ended up.

One question... Beringer supplies AN bolts and locking nuts and Control Approach supplies clevis pins and cotter pins. Curious as to the pros and cons of one over the other. I feel like the bolts and nuts would allow for a little less play in the overall assembly since you can snug things up to the level of tolerance one would like. Probably overthinking it but wanted to make sure I'm assembling this combo with best practices in mind.
old pic
 

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Control Approach does not include the master cylinders. You either use the ones Vans supplies (Matco I think) with the kit or you can upgrade to the Beringer wheel and brake system which comes with master cylinders. The RV10 Beringer installation instructions are for the Vans pedal system.

There's no instructions from Control Approach or Beringer on the best methods for combining Control Approach and Beringer. The differences between installing the Beringer cylinders and cylinders provided by Vans is probably minimal, but just wanted to check what others have done.
 
There's a photo of RV14 on their web page. Below. Interesting. Masters are mounted upside down from typical. I would favor bolts and washers or spacers but I have Vans 7A/Beringer.
RV7-custom-pedal-system-12-2023-AD.webp
 
Here's what I've come up with so far. I'm assuming the idea is to keep the master cylinders from rubbing on the stainless pushrods, and to keep them as parallel as possible to the direction of effort. I used the Beringer supplied bolts and nuts on the bottom rod end. Not tightened yet. Because the Beringer supplied hardware is for the Vans pedals, I'm using the Control Approach supplied clevis pins and cotters in the top connection.

That said, there's some play that I think could be removed with the right length bolts, washers and nuts.


IMG_2601.png
 
I would recommend using cotter pins and castle nuts for both top and bottom connections. I had the nuts on and off multiple times when I bled the brakes and it led to a nut coming loose in flight causing loss of directional control on landing. Having a cotter pin is an easily inspectable thing once you put everything back together.
 
Control Approach does not include the master cylinders. You either use the ones Vans supplies (Matco I think) with the kit or you can upgrade to the Beringer wheel and brake system which comes with master cylinders. The RV10 Beringer installation instructions are for the Vans pedal system.

There's no instructions from Control Approach or Beringer on the best methods for combining Control Approach and Beringer. The differences between installing the Beringer cylinders and cylinders provided by Vans is probably minimal, but just wanted to check what others have done.
Wait, I always assumed they come with cylinders. All their pictures show the Beringer Cylinders and there is actually no list what is included in the kit. So it's 2.5k$ for just the pedals and a few metal tubes and fittings?
 
Wait, I always assumed they come with cylinders. All their pictures show the Beringer Cylinders and there is actually no list what is included in the kit. So it's 2.5k$ for just the pedals and a few metal tubes and fittings?
Control Approach does not supply the cylinders, or the hoses. You purchase them from Beringer, or a Beringer dealer. Past procedure was to send them to Paul at Control Approach for install, but I think that has changed to builder install now. David, it doesnt matter if the springs are up or down as youre still compressing the piston either way. Check the clearances through both braking and rudder movement. Also--check how much of the rod end thread you have in the cylinder and the piston. Seems all the rod ends are out there pretty far.
 
I would recommend using cotter pins and castle nuts for both top and bottom connections. I had the nuts on and off multiple times when I bled the brakes and it led to a nut coming loose in flight causing loss of directional control on landing. Having a cotter pin is an easily inspectable thing once you put everything back together.
Probably not a bad idea. Are the master cylinders / brake system particularly hard to bleed the first time? Sounds like it required you to take the cylinders off of the pedals to get all of the air out of them? Thanks for sharing your experience with it.
 
Probably not a bad idea. Are the master cylinders / brake system particularly hard to bleed the first time? Sounds like it required you to take the cylinders off of the pedals to get all of the air out of them? Thanks for sharing your experience with it.
I never bled others, but Beringer took some time. It definately helps to have the cylinders horizontal, brake lines facing up.
 
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