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Firewall Passthrough Removal or Capping

Chachi7565

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Hi, I'm doing some work on my new-to-me RV-8A, and found this unused firewall passthrough. I'm wondering if there is a good solution for eliminating an unnecessary breach in my firewall. I'd prefer an easy solution - e.g. a solid cap that fits on the existing threads, or a new fitting that uses the existing hole - versus completely removing the fitting, and riveting in a stainless plate. Any suggestions or advice? Thank you!
 

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Hi, I'm doing some work on my new-to-me RV-8A, and found this unused firewall passthrough. I'm wondering if there is a good solution for eliminating an unnecessary breach in my firewall. I'd prefer an easy solution - e.g. a solid cap that fits on the existing threads - versus completely removing the fitting, and riveting in a stainless plate. Any suggestions or advice? Thank you!
If you can find a cap that fits the threaded portion, do that, then just pump 3M Fire Barrier 2000 in from the other side to fill and seal it all.
 
Those appear to be standard “gland” electrical fittings. Put a cap on it.
Also, if they still have the rubber gland in the ones you’re keeping, that’s not good.
 
Hi, I'm doing some work on my new-to-me RV-8A, and found this unused firewall passthrough. I'm wondering if there is a good solution for eliminating an unnecessary breach in my firewall. I'd prefer an easy solution - e.g. a solid cap that fits on the existing threads, or a new fitting that uses the existing hole - versus completely removing the fitting, and riveting in a stainless plate. Any suggestions or advice? Thank you!
I think you may have an equally concerning problem with the plastic brake line fitting that looks to be penetrating the firewall, or at least attached to what is penetrating.
 
I think you may have an equally concerning problem with the plastic brake line fitting that looks to be penetrating the firewall, or at least attached to what is penetrating.
This is why I am reluctant to post questions on this forum.
 
This is why I am reluctant to post questions on this forum.
Ya, but sometimes things do get caught.
However, this is standard Vans low pressure brake line configuration and flying on thousands of RV’s.
I would not tie them to Bowden cables though as the jacket is like a saw. But, with no relative motion, probably not a concern.
 
Cant tell how big it is, but why not unscrew it and stick a dime in then screw the cap back on?
Or whatever denomination fits.

There's some history to sticking a penny in there is anyone catches the reference.
 
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Couple ways. I’ve removed the fitting and used wide area steel washers on both sides, with some Fire Barrier Sealant and a screw and nut to clamp in place. This past week I covered a hole with a small plate of 4130 steel and stainless steel pop rivets.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 

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I'd prefer an easy solution - e.g. a solid cap that fits on the existing threads, or a new fitting that uses the existing hole - versus completely removing the fitting, and riveting in a stainless plate. Any suggestions or advice?

Simply pumping it full of FireBarrier 2000+ or any other intumescent silicone sealant would work. Personally I'd remove it and cap the hole with a plate or washer.

Tubular Pass-throughs.jpg
 
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