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Rolling rudder leading edges rv8

CadeW

I'm New Here
I am having issues with rolling my rudder leading edge I didn’t have to much issue getting the top and middle sections to pull to together but the lower one has to be stretched quite a bit. I am using 1 inch O/D pvc pipe to get my rolls. Any help on correcting this would be appreciated.
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I think you need to use a smaller diameter pipe so that you can get a tighter radius right next to the spar without making a crease, and then have the skins run a little bit straight after a small, nearly 90-degree bend. The shape ends up oval, not circular on the bottom.
 
I think you may have them a bit over-bent near the bottom end. Due to the width of the spar there, the leading edge needs to flatten out a bit to bridge the distance. Once they are clecoed together, they should form a reasonably symmetric curve. It will not be a half-circle, though.
 
The key is as Steve says above to get a pretty tight radius, without a crease, right near the spar. That gets it going in the right direction but also needed to ensure it fits within the overlapping skin on the vertical tail.
 
Man I just wrestled with mine. It turned out ok but I ended up with small spots that show “crease”. All we had was a broom handle to work with. It did alright but I’ll probably redo it someday.
 
The key is to keep the rolling bar flat on the table or surface as you roll. We had a solid steel round bar, heavy, with handles on each end. You can also use vice grips as handles. Place pressure on both ends and roll together, uniformly, keeping the work flat on the table. Having a helper makes it easier but one person can do it.
I can’t imagine using PVC or a wood stick for this. It is way too flexible and light. I’m sure folks have done it but you’re asking for mixed results. Standard iron pipe is ok, but the solid round bar is better as the weight helps keep the skin flat on the table for that consistent roll.
It is desirable to be able to insert rivets with no pressure pulling on the skins.
 
The key is to keep the rolling bar flat on the table or surface as you roll. We had a solid steel round bar, heavy, with handles on each end. You can also use vice grips as handles. Place pressure on both ends and roll together, uniformly, keeping the work flat on the table. Having a helper makes it easier but one person can do it.
I can’t imagine using PVC or a wood stick for this. It is way too flexible and light. I’m sure folks have done it but you’re asking for mixed results. Standard iron pipe is ok, but the solid round bar is better as the weight helps keep the skin flat on the table for that consistent roll.
It is desirable to be able to insert rivets with no pressure pulling on the skins.
I did my best to get no tension between the skins but dang. It seemed like if I got them that close, the skins would start to try and crease by the spar. We worked at it a good 2-3 hours too. I do understand the desire though! It seems like it would be far better for the structure.
 
I did my best to get no tension between the skins but dang. It seemed like if I got them that close, the skins would start to try and crease by the spar. We worked at it a good 2-3 hours too. I do understand the desire though! It seems like it would be far better for the structure.
It wasn’t formed properly, which might be better said “wasn’t formed perfectly”,
This is common and I’ve never heard of anybody reporting issues. We do the best we can. It won’t show and nobody will notice and I seriously doubt it would present an issue down the line.
I was lucky in that we had a special table and special solid bar for this job. That set up built more than a dozen airplanes. I just happened to hangar in that shop and got to use the jigs and fixtures.
 
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