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Slider canopy variance build ?
- Thread starter FuturPilot
- Start date
I measured from center down both sides of bow and they're the same length, however, the Left side is welded 3/16" higher on the post.
That’s odd. I have no doubt you can make it work. There is a lot of tolerance in the frame and canopy interface. You also have the rear fairing which can make up some anomalies. You can also use shims to help.
Trimming, or in my case adding shims under these “posts”, is done to align the canopy with the windscreen.
You need to decide if the slightly off frame side will bother you. It’s plenty wide enough and you will never see it.
However, it isn’t right and you could make a case for Vans to provide a correct frame.
Honestly, I’m not sure what I would do. If it’s a big hassle to get e new frame, I might just build on.
Don’t cut that post down if the front bow matches up and it appears to do that very well.
Trimming, or in my case adding shims under these “posts”, is done to align the canopy with the windscreen.
You need to decide if the slightly off frame side will bother you. It’s plenty wide enough and you will never see it.
However, it isn’t right and you could make a case for Vans to provide a correct frame.
Honestly, I’m not sure what I would do. If it’s a big hassle to get e new frame, I might just build on.
Don’t cut that post down if the front bow matches up and it appears to do that very well.
Have you centered & latched the frame to the w/shield roll bar yet? Is important the latch doesn’t introduce any sideways load in the frame, which will affect the canopy fit all around.
Also, any adjustment in one corner of the frame affects ALL corners alignment & fitment to the airframe. Go slow. Go for fitment first. Resort to the hack saw as a last resort.
Also, any adjustment in one corner of the frame affects ALL corners alignment & fitment to the airframe. Go slow. Go for fitment first. Resort to the hack saw as a last resort.
As it sits, the latch hole appears to be centered on the latch pin, possibly 1/16" off. I think I can adjust this with the rail positioning.
Sent email to Van's Support....Waiting!
That's nothing. Build on.
Get the roller width close so it doesn't bind. Watch the aft bow. You want it to clear the turtle deck. Before attaching clamp and measure how much the canopy squeezes it. Every canopy is different, but usually about 1/4" each side. Adjust bow dimensions to accommodate the flex. Last thing you want is the bow hitting the turtle deck. If you end up too wide, that's easy to hide with the skirt.
The right side bow follows contour of fuselage with a 1/16-1/8 gap. Left side is flush about half way back and sticks out > 1/4" at the rear.
Should I bend this side in to be flush- 1/16 in?
No way for me or anyone else to make that call.
When you think you have it close, clamp a blanket between two saw horses wide enough to support the canopy. Set the canopy upside down. Place the frame inside exactly where it will be attached and clamp it with a couple strips of wood. Measure, Measure, Measure. Distances across the rollers and aft bow. Measure the corresponding areas on the fuse. Do some math. That is how much your canopy changes the bow dimensions and how much you need to adjust.
As "rv6ator" said. Now is a good time to add the Super Tracks.
Now you want me to "pre-load". WTH is that?
Supertracks? I think I need to figure this out before I add $400 more to screw up.
By the way, I've read your canopy install article 3X.
Thank you. Happy to help if I can.
They are simple. I do recommend fabricating a full length canopy track rather than using the extension. Buy a 48" aluminum strip and bar from Vans and bend one end to match the original. Don't drill the top skin till the canopy is finished. That way you can position the track.Supertracks? I think I need to figure this out before I add $400 more to screw up.
By the way, it's also easier to hold off on installing the roll bar brace till the canopy is done. That way you can adjust the roll bar a tiny bit to match the canopy bow.
Once you have the canopy frame fit and sliding smoothly, you will need to pull the lower canopy frame together slightly prior to glueing/riveting the canopy. Reason being that the canopy, once attached will pull outward on the lower frame causing track rollers to rub outwards. The lower frame can be pulled in and secured w/safety wire, or any other method. I pulled the frame inward by 3/8".
BTW:
You can order the Supertracks kit without the spine extension and use the longer RV-8 part. You do need to modify the front bend radius to match the -7.
The whole thing looked overwhelming when I first fit the canopy frame, because nothing seemed to align.
This photo shows the aft of frame way above the fuselage deck, not below like it's supposed to be.
Guess why? Yep, I installed the rear slide track earlier. Wrong! There is a reason the plans say to hold off permanently installing it.
Pulled the screws out and slid the track back and sure enough, pulled rear canopy bow below deck.
Instead of ordering new material for the -7. I get to order the track for the -8. And why do that? Sure thing--Supertracks.
So when you give yourself lemons, make lemonade.
This photo shows the aft of frame way above the fuselage deck, not below like it's supposed to be.
Guess why? Yep, I installed the rear slide track earlier. Wrong! There is a reason the plans say to hold off permanently installing it.
Pulled the screws out and slid the track back and sure enough, pulled rear canopy bow below deck.
Instead of ordering new material for the -7. I get to order the track for the -8. And why do that? Sure thing--Supertracks.
So when you give yourself lemons, make lemonade.
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