Optional Cooler Replacement

[JimKruse]

I have been building an Rv-12iS with the help of the Teen Aircraft Factory of Manasota (https://www.teenaircraftfactory.org) and it is nearly complete, I expect it to be airworthy soon.

I had been waiting a very long time for the back ordered radiator and jumped at the chance when the new one became available. I understand the back ordered radiators are still not available.

Overall I am very happy with this expensive upgrade and have high hopes for long leak free life.

The kit includes the oil cooler, the radiator, mounting bracket, rivets, nuts, bolts, camlocks, etc. and two radiator hoses to connect to the water lines. The kit uses the same oil lines as the legacy oil cooler – don’t take them off when you remove the old system.

Feel free to contact me with questions

Here are some photos

 

[KEG]

Just curious... what do you have to disconnect to remove the lower cowl?

 

[Bob Y]

Did you figure out why the AN3H bolt? Don’t see any reference to safety wiring it, especially since it’s got a Nyloc nut on it, which I plan to replace with a metal lock nut. It’s certainly not a critical bolt/nut, but why subject it to the engine and radiator heat?

 

[JimKruse]

Just curious... what do you have to disconnect to remove the lower cowl?

The oil cooler sits on the bracket - pins on the bottom of the cooler slide into grommets on the bracket to line everything up. Once you disconnect the 4 cam locks you lower the front of the lower cowling and the radiator/cooler assembly slide off - they remain suspended by the cables to the engine... Even with the legacy radiator/cooler, its no fun to remove the lower cowling with the 3 blade prop...this makes it even more fun (and worse to mount)...but we installed/removed the lower cowl several times to trim the fiberglass to the correct clearance (3/8 inch)...and got better at it. We used a bunch of blue tape to protect the prop...

 

[JimKruse]

Did you figure out why the AN3H bolt? Don’t see any reference to safety wiring it, especially since it’s got a Nyloc nut on it, which I plan to replace with a metal lock nut. It’s certainly not a critical bolt/nut, but why subject it to the engine and radiator heat?

No, I'd like to see photos from Van's S/LSA to see how they did it. We ended up safety wiring the two bolts each other around the Prop Governor ... I don't love it but we didn't see a better option. It bugs me to see empty holes where there should be safety wire...Your metal lock nut sounds like a good option...

 

[Amadeus]

Once you disconnect the 4 cam locks you lower the front of the lower cowling and the radiator/cooler assembly slide off - they remain suspended by the cables to the engine...

When cowling is on and the assembly is attached to the bracket and cowling is there slack in these cables that suspend from the engine?

If not then the startup/shutdown will still be putting strain on the top side of the radiator. Which then would be putting strain on the cowling (cracks?).

 

[JimKruse]

When cowling is on and the assembly is attached to the bracket and cowling is there slack in these cables that suspend from the engine?

If not then the startup/shutdown will still be putting strain on the top side of the radiator. Which then would be putting strain on the cowling (cracks?).

Yes there is slack in the cable, the oil cooler/radiator assembly is supported by the cowlings and is not attached to the engine frame. (both upper and lower must be installed to completely support it, with only the lower cowling installed it sags a little). I will try to post of photo of the assembly with the Lower Cowling installed shortly.

 

[subpar_bucker]

Yes there is slack in the cable, the oil cooler/radiator assembly is supported by the cowlings and is not attached to the engine frame. (both upper and lower must be installed to completely support it, with only the lower cowling installed it sags a little). I will try to post of photo of the assembly with the Lower Cowling installed shortly.

This part: "is supported by the cowlings and is not attached to the engine frame. (both upper and lower must be installed to completely support it, with only the lower cowling installed it sags a little)" made me wonder how much more of a load the cowl hinge brackets in the rear of the engine compartment will now be resisting? If you think about it, mounting the radiators at the very front of the cowling yields about the longest lever arm you can get. This has to be putting a new, larger load on the rear cowl hinges.

Maybe not a big deal at 1G, but at 4G maybe?

 

[JimKruse]

Yes there is slack in the cable, the oil cooler/radiator assembly is supported by the cowlings and is not attached to the engine frame. (both upper and lower must be installed to completely support it, with only the lower cowling installed it sags a little). I will try to post of photo of the assembly with the Lower Cowling installed shortly.

Here is a photo...

 

[Bob Y]

No, I'd like to see photos from Van's S/LSA to see how they did it. We ended up safety wiring the two bolts each other around the Prop Governor ... I don't love it but we didn't see a better option. It bugs me to see empty holes where there should be safety wire...Your metal lock nut sounds like a good option...

I checked with Van’s support on the AN3H bolts before installing my mod and was told they were from an earlier version that used them, but they weren’t changed in the final release. And as a side note, my dynamic balance increased from 0.06 to 0.11 ips. I guess the cooler and radiator provided some damping. Just thought I’d share for those that would be interested to know. And no measurable difference in W&B.