Baffle Fitting Tip

[Ironflight]

If you’re fitting a Vans baffle kit to a Lycoming (and even if you’re not building an RV, why WOUDN’T you use the Vans kit as a starting point….?!), and you’re using silicone rocker cover gaskets, you have probably found (or will find) that the cutouts in the baffles for the cylinders will interfere with the larger-than-stock gaskets. The Vans baffles are CAD-designed and CNC cut to fit perfectly around (and behind) the rocker covers - but the gaskets get in the way.

So do yourself a favor and save a bunch of time - remove the rocker covers (and gaskets) before you start fitting baffles. The baffles will bolt right up and the job will go way quicker. Definitely DON’T modify the openings in the baffles to accommodate the seals. The truth is that the seals are pliable enough that they will accommodate the “step” created by the baffle aluminum when you re-install the seals and covers. Make sure to cover the rocker box with paper towels or something else to keep the dust out!

 

[JonJay]

The “real gaskets” brand are oversized. I didn’t trust the step the baffle caused so I sourced the Lycoming PMA silicon. They are the “correct” size and will fit inside the baffle metal. They are thinner also, which I like, as there is less chance of distorting the cover flange. However, if they don’t leak, they don’t leak.
Any reason to not fit up the baffles with the stock cork and then swap out the gaskets to Real or stock silicon?

 

[Ironflight]

Any reason to not fit up the baffles with the stock cork and then swap out the gaskets to Real or stock silicon?

That works - but it is far quicker to slip the baffles on and off the flat surface without the protruding valve covers - at least that has been my experience building a bunch of baffles.

 

[RV-9erA]

Recently, replaced my old rocker cover cork gaskets with new 1/8 Inch Silicone valve cover gaskets--soooo much better than the old stock cork gaskets--keeps things dry! Also, changed the intake gaskets with the new thicker Superior intake gaskets, and replaced the intake rubber hoses and drain-back rubber tubes while in there. It's not a bad idea to change all of these things sooner than later since it takes considerable effort to remove the old gasket material after they get cooked-on and brittle. Note--changing the intake gaskets and rubber intake hoses made a markable difference in engine smoothness--much better!