RV7 or RV9 canopy slider rear skirt fiberglass layup

[Jcohen]

I am preparing to fab my rear skirt on my RV7 slider canopy in fiberglass. I see a few very old threads but not much recent on the number of BID layers used and how well that stiffness works to limit some flexing/curling /lifting-out in-flight.

I am thinking I will use 6 layers of BID glass at 0/90. I am curious to hear thoughts from others:

1. How many layers of cloth and type layup did you use? Any thickness or weight concerns?

2. Did anyone use a layer of carbon to increase stiffness?

3. If you were to do it again, what would you change or modify?

Thank you for your help. This community is great!

Jeff

 

[PaulvS]

I used around 10 layers of 6 oz bid cloth for a total thickness of 0.08 inch. The cloth was cut per a template that matched the curve of the rear of fhe canopy and I used some stiff thin plastic sheet to bridge the gap between the plexi and the tailcone for the layup. The result was a close fitting skirt that is more rigid than a metal skirt. Pics of the process:

 

[Jcohen]

I used around 10 layers of 6 oz bid cloth for a total thickness of 0.10 inch. The cloth was cut per a template that matched the curve of the rear of fhe canopy and I used some stiff thin plastic sheet to bridge the gap between the plexi and the tailcone for the layup. The result was a close fitting skirt that is more rigid than a metal skirt. Pics of the process:

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Thanks for this information. Very helpful!

 

[Jcohen]

Did you then epoxy the piece to the plexiglass or rivet?

 

[eavila1]

Good morning Jeff,

Yes I believe i used 5-6 layers as well. IMO, No need to use carbon. Mine is plenty stiff. I'll post some pics if I can find them.

I wouldn't change anything. I used colored poster board from the dollar store to form the contour from the canopy to the skin. Tape it in place with packaging tape and that serves as a release for the fiberglass. Layup everything and allow to cure. Then I sanded and removed and cut to final dimensions. You could be careful and bond directly to your plexi (like the windcsreen) or what I did if i remember corrctly, was I bonded it to the plexi with sika flex. Don't forget to put in and shape and mold your rail guide in the center if you are a slider.

Fits like a glove, but I do need to sand down to more of a feather edge on the ends before I paint.

 

[PaulvS]

Did you then epoxy the piece to the plexiglass or rivet?

I riveted the epoxy piece through the plexi to the frame, i.e. same method as for the metal skirt. See extra pic #6 added to post above.

 

[Jcohen]

Good morning Jeff,

Yes I believe i used 5-6 layers as well. IMO, No need to use carbon. Mine is plenty stiff. I'll post some pics if I can find them.

I wouldn't change anything. I used colored poster board from the dollar store to form the contour from the canopy to the skin. Tape it in place with packaging tape and that serves as a release for the fiberglass. Layup everything and allow to cure. Then I sanded and removed and cut to final dimensions. You could be careful and bond directly to your plexi (like the windcsreen) or what I did if i remember corrctly, was I bonded it to the plexi with sika flex. Don't forget to put in and shape and mold your rail guide in the center if you are a slider.

Fits like a glove, but I do need to sand down to more of a feather edge on the ends before I paint.

Thank you for this !

 

[eavila1]

Thank you for this !

You're welcome. Yep my process was almost identical to Paul's, except for i bonded with sicka flex in the end. No fasteners. Bonded very well but I'm sure either way is just as effective. My thickness looks like Paul's as well so I may have used more than 6 layers also.

 

[Raymo]

I opted to go with FG as well and used the aluminum part from Vans for the contour with lots of car wax to keep the FG from sticking. I don't recall how many layers I used but it would have been at least four. No issues or cracks in 450 hours but the fitment at the track could be better. I need to find a way to seal that area better.

 

[rmartingt]

I ended up with six layers of a fairly heavy biax cloth and way too much resin so it's overkill. But I made the whole skirt as one unitary piece. Each layer is made of four separate pieces of cloth (two sides, two rear) overlapping at the lower corners and over the track.

I went this way because I had somewhat of a "ski jump" at the back of the plexiglass despite my best efforts to fit the frame and so I figured metal wasn't going to work well at all. Fiberglass was my only shot at fitting things to the skin.

So, I took little strips of styrofoam and spray-glued them around behind the plexi, sanded them down to a faired shape, and overcoated it all with clear packing tape. Sides were bridged with packing tape too. In hindsight I should have done something other than gluing the styrofoam down because that was a PITA to remove and took lots of acetone.

After lots of filling and sanding , I Sika'd the skirt but also added the blind rivets to the frame and used soft rivets to attach the brace. Windscreen fairing got Sika'd as well.

In the end both my skirt and windscreen fairing are a little thick and have a noticeable step but frankly... I don't care. It fits tight. Only three holes in the plexi, for the latch handle and the rear lift handle. I'll hopefully see how it works in flight in a week or two...

 

[wirejock]

I know someone who did that!

https://www.kitplanes.com/easy-slider/https://www.kitplanes.com/easy-slider-part-2/https://www.kitplanes.com/easy-slider-part-3/

 

[rmartingt]

I know someone who did that!

Yours looks a lot better than mine
But your Sika guide was very helpful, thanks!

 

[John Stoll]

I made my entire side and rear skirt out of fiberglass and carbon fiber. I staggered my layup so that they would overlap and interlock but so as not create a buldge where the the side and and rear pieces meet. I use 6 layers in total, 2 fiberglass, 2 Carbon Fiber, and 2 more fiberglass. I used the sika flex to attach it. I think I used 2 yards of carbon fiber, if doing just the rear you could probably get by with a yard. I aslo added carbon fiber the top of the front canopy bow incase someone grips it or puts pressure on it. I would do it again.

 

[Kiwifly]

I followed wire jocks article and was very pleased with the outcome, had many people comment on the finished canopy. No holes in any of the plexiglass except for the slider handle. 2nd pic at 150 kts, no lifting on rear skirt.

 

[Richard Connell]

3 layers of what I think was probably about 200gsm (6oz) carbon. Just the rear skirt.
Used tight packing tape to bridge the gap.
layed up one layer - let it cure - filled the dips/waves with micro then layed up another 2 layers.

 

[9GT]

I can't remember how many layers I used, but I did add a layer of carbon fiber to stiffen it up a bit, just because I had it on hand. I also carried it all the way forward for my side skirts instead of using aluminum.