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Sky-Tec 149-NL Loose Motor

Dad's RV-10

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Just putting this out there for those who are unaware of the potential for this issue, like I was;

I had been chasing an intermittent click-no-starter-engagement and/or click-delayed-starter engagement issue for as long as I've owned the RV-7 (2.5 years). I try to diagnose and not just throw parts at a problem but the intermittent nature of this condition was giving me fits.

I had replaced the Cole Hersee firewall starter contactor and replaced the PC-680 battery. I had checked and cleaned grounds, checked all of the wiring connections and checked for parasitic draw (there was none). Sometimes it seemed it was fixed. And then it would happen again.

I kept getting sucked down the rabbit hole of thinking it was somehow a battery issue. When the starter would fail to engage, I would put the battery on a tender for the night and the next day, it would start. That pattern was repeatable, until it wasn't. I finally had a click-no-starter-engagement after the battery had been on the tender for several days.

The only thing left was the starter itself. I searched the forum for "149-NL" and found this old thread. Somehow, I had never read about this issue and it never occurred to me to grab the motor half of the starter.

As you can see in the video below, what I found was fairly egregious. Rather than just attempt to tighten the loose bolts, I sent it to Flight Widgets for an overhaul.

I believe the issue is finally resolved. Many of you are aware of the potential for this issue. I was not. The starter is of 2014 vintage, to the best of my knowledge.

In retrospect, I think the reason it would typically start after being placed on the tender was that the slightly higher battery voltage was usually enough to overcome the added resistance that was caused by the loose motor.

Thanks to the forum for making me smarter (y)

 
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Lots of fretting and aluminum dust at the connection as play gets introduced… too much and you will need to open it up, clean, and grease it again to restore function.
 
Just putting this out there for those who are unaware of the potential for this issue, like I was;

I had been chasing an intermittent click-no-starter-engagement and/or click-delayed-starter engagement issue for as long as I've owned the RV-7 (2.5 years). I try to diagnose and not just throw parts at a problem but the intermittent nature of this condition was giving me fits.

I had replaced the Cole Hersee starter solenoid and replaced the PC-680 battery. I had checked and cleaned grounds, checked all of the wiring connections and checked for parasitic draw (there was none). Sometimes it seemed it was fixed. And then it would happen again.

I kept getting sucked down the rabbit hole of thinking it was somehow a battery issue. When the starter would fail to engage, I would put the battery on a tender for the night and the next day, it would start. That pattern was repeatable, until it wasn't. I finally had a click-no-starter-engagement after the plane had been on the tender for several days.

The only thing left was the starter itself. I searched the forum for "149-NL" and found this old thread. Somehow, I had never read about this issue and it never occurred to me to grab the motor half of the starter.

As you can see in the video below, what I found was fairly egregious. Rather than just attempt to tighten the loose bolts, I sent it to Flight Widgets for an overhaul.

I believe the issue is finally resolved. Many of you are aware of the potential for this issue. I was not. The starter is of 2014 vintage, to the best of my knowledge.

In retrospect, I think the reason it would typically start after being placed on the tender was that the slightly higher battery voltage was usually enough to overcome the added resistance that was caused by the loose motor.

Thanks to the forum for making me smarter (y)

How long did they take to overhaul and get back to you?
 
How long did they take to overhaul and get back to you?

I'm pretty sure it's just a one man, home business. He was ready to ship it back just a day or two after receiving it. He ships Priority Mail.

FYI, he's not a repair station and I guess he's concerned about liability, so he removes the Sky-Tec PMA label and even grinds the embossed "Sky-Tec" off the snout. His replacement motor must be 12V only because there is no longer a 12V/24V jumper and there's a new "12V Only" label affixed.

He was very responsive via text and my intermittent issue is finally solved. I'm a happy camper.
 
I'm pretty sure it's just a one man, home business. He was ready to ship it back just a day or two after receiving it. He ships Priority Mail.

FYI, he's not a repair station and I guess he's concerned about liability, so he removes the Sky-Tec PMA label and even grinds the embossed "Sky-Tec" off the snout. His replacement motor must be 12V only because there is no longer a 12V/24V jumper and there's a new "12V Only" label affixed.

He was very responsive via text and my intermittent issue is finally solved. I'm a happy camper.
The internal solenoid is a double coil with 4 leads instead of three, the different coils are required to support dual voltage. These are hard to find, so when I rebuilt mine, it had only the 12v coil and rewired it so the jumper can be installed for normal ot remove and use a separate source for coil activation.
 
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