Cabin top rivets

[gkochers]

I have searched and not found much info on using solid rivets instead of the pull rivets for attachment of the cabin top along the sides and rear. I asked Vans but feel like I got an obligatory “we suggest you follow the plans.” There was an old matronics thread but not much follow up.

So before I drill everything up for 1/8” CS4 rivets, has anyone just used -3 solid rivets along the horizontal and rear seams when attaching the cabin top? I’m really not excited about exposed shop heads of CS4s on the inside and I don’t know that I’ll be covering it with a full interior. What else have folks done? If not solid rivets, anyone have a nice way to finish off shop heads of pull rivets other than just covering with panels?

There will be an aluminum backing strip that I plan to go ahead and bond to the cabin top before riveting.

 

[Kyle Boatright]

The problem with driven rivets is the possibility of fracturing the fiberglass. Use the pulled rivets, cover them with a strip of something if they bother you. Mine are bare, naked, and sitting there for everyone to see. Nobody has commented yet.

 

[Richard Connell]

I have searched and not found much info on using solid rivets instead of the pull rivets for attachment of the cabin top along the sides and rear. I asked Vans but feel like I got an obligatory “we suggest you follow the plans.” There was an old matronics thread but not much follow up.

So before I drill everything up for 1/8” CS4 rivets, has anyone just used -3 solid rivets along the horizontal and rear seams when attaching the cabin top? I’m really not excited about exposed shop heads of CS4s on the inside and I don’t know that I’ll be covering it with a full interior. What else have folks done? If not solid rivets, anyone have a nice way to finish off shop heads of pull rivets other than just covering with panels?

There will be an aluminum backing strip that I plan to go ahead and bond to the cabin top before riveting.

I used solid AN4A rivets for all my cabin top to airframe rivets. I satisfied myself (I am an engineer) that the countersunk fiberglass would fail long before even an AD4A.
In terms of numbers on the rivets themselves an LP4 is good for around 160lb in shear. A regular AD4 390lb and an AD4A around 140lb. (An AD3 is 215 but obv a much smaller diameter which will increase the psi shear in the glass relative to the AD4/LP4- so I didn’t consider this option)

On the side rivets I made the backing plate 063, hysol’d to the cabin top and double flushed them. The rear just have the regular thin backing plate (but also bonded to the cabin top before riveting)

I didn’t want to bog the cabin top at the joins to hide the pop rivet heads and the seam. I’ve seen some of them done well and some not so well. I prefer the look of the rivets and a join. It was a bit of extra work but I had lots of covid time on my hands so was happy to experiment.

There are about 7-8 LP4s in the middle at the top where I couldn’t buck because they are inside the overhead console.

I’m aware of a couple of others who’ve done similar.
These are the only photos I have handy.

 

[gkochers]

I used solid AN4A rivets for all my cabin top to airframe rivets. I satisfied myself (I am an engineer) that the countersunk fiberglass would fail long before even an AD4A.
In terms of numbers on the rivets themselves an LP4 is good for around 160lb in shear. A regular AD4 390lb and an AD4A around 140lb. (An AD3 is 215 but obv a much smaller diameter which will increase the psi shear in the glass relative to the AD4/LP4- so I didn’t consider this option)

On the side rivets I made the backing plate 063, hysol’d to the cabin top and double flushed them. The rear just have the regular thin backing plate (but also bonded to the cabin top before riveting)

I didn’t want to bog the cabin top at the joins to hide the pop rivet heads and the seam. I’ve seen some of them done well and some not so well. I prefer the look of the rivets and a join. It was a bit of extra work but I had lots of covid time on my hands so was happy to experiment.

There are about 7-8 LP4s in the middle at the top where I couldn’t buck because they are inside the overhead console.

I’m aware of a couple of others who’ve done similar.
These are the only photos I have handy.



View attachment 83845

View attachment 83846

Thanks you for the feedback, this is what I was looking for.

 

[John Retief]

I have searched and not found much info on using solid rivets instead of the pull rivets for attachment of the cabin top along the sides and rear. I asked Vans but feel like I got an obligatory “we suggest you follow the plans.” There was an old matronics thread but not much follow up.

So before I drill everything up for 1/8” CS4 rivets, has anyone just used -3 solid rivets along the horizontal and rear seams when attaching the cabin top? I’m really not excited about exposed shop heads of CS4s on the inside and I don’t know that I’ll be covering it with a full interior. What else have folks done? If not solid rivets, anyone have a nice way to finish off shop heads of pull rivets other than just covering with panels?

There will be an aluminum backing strip that I plan to go ahead and bond to the cabin top before riveting.

Thanks for askin the question GK , I am also at the stage where I have to install the Canopy top ...and also don't understand why the plans suggest pop rivets .
Hope the Vans will provide answer.
Richard you have a perfect plan toe double flush the solid rivets especialy those that are on the side of the pax . I will follow this thread as it is my task in 14 days !!!

 

[Tweetr]

I used solid AN4A rivets for all my cabin top to airframe rivets. I satisfied myself (I am an engineer) that the countersunk fiberglass would fail long before even an AD4A.
In terms of numbers on the rivets themselves an LP4 is good for around 160lb in shear. A regular AD4 390lb and an AD4A around 140lb. (An AD3 is 215 but obv a much smaller diameter which will increase the psi shear in the glass relative to the AD4/LP4- so I didn’t consider this option)

On the side rivets I made the backing plate 063, hysol’d to the cabin top and double flushed them. The rear just have the regular thin backing plate (but also bonded to the cabin top before riveting)

I didn’t want to bog the cabin top at the joins to hide the pop rivet heads and the seam. I’ve seen some of them done well and some not so well. I prefer the look of the rivets and a join. It was a bit of extra work but I had lots of covid time on my hands so was happy to experiment.

There are about 7-8 LP4s in the middle at the top where I couldn’t buck because they are inside the overhead console.

I’m aware of a couple of others who’ve done similar.
These are the only photos I have handy.

That is very pretty work! Thanks for posting.