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Elevator SB-00043

Carl Froehlich

Carl Froehlich

Well Known Member
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As luck would have it, this SB came out a couple of weeks after i finished the tail kit. The tail parts have been hanging in the shop for a couple of years but will soon come down for final assembly. I’d like to do this SB first.

Anyone with tips on doing the pro-seal fix?

Carl
 
Carl Froehlich said:
As luck would have it, this SB came out a couple of weeks after i finished the tail kit. The tail parts have been hanging in the shop for a couple of years but will soon come down for final assembly. I’d like to do this SB first.

Anyone with tips on doing the pro-seal fix?

Carl
Click to expand...
A bunch of bad ideas: using a 50 cc syringe and long tube pushed with a standard caulk gun with expired pro seal on a cold day bends all the tools to smithereens and wastes time.



I think personally we should have a roving pro seal air gun in a virtual EAA toolkit to send to each member as they get ready to seal. I didn’t have mine when I did the tail but it was sweet for doing my tank baffles.

If you get a tube you can warm it up with friction by mixing rapidly (I used my drill press and the tool for it) and that will soften it dramatically so it will squeeze better through your 3/8 tube. Also shortens its working time.

If I had to do it all again I’d use 80-90 degree (F) proseal and a tube on an air injector with the recommended long aluminum tube. Beware viscosity it will slow you down.

Or do it my old way and buy several caulk guns and horse syringes and plan to wreck them all and your hands too.
 
tldavis said:
A bunch of bad ideas: using a 50 cc syringe and long tube pushed with a standard caulk gun with expired pro seal on a cold day bends all the tools to smithereens and wastes time.



I think personally we should have a roving pro seal air gun in a virtual EAA toolkit to send to each member as they get ready to seal. I didn’t have mine when I did the tail but it was sweet for doing my tank baffles.

If you get a tube you can warm it up with friction by mixing rapidly (I used my drill press and the tool for it) and that will soften it dramatically so it will squeeze better through your 3/8 tube. Also shortens its working time.

If I had to do it all again I’d use 80-90 degree (F) proseal and a tube on an air injector with the recommended long aluminum tube. Beware viscosity it will slow you down.

Or do it my old way and buy several caulk guns and horse syringes and plan to wreck them all and your hands too.
Click to expand...
Oh and for the right price I might lend my tools if my tanks don’t leak. Last test (after sealing senders) coming in a few weeks.
 
I think you HAVE to buy the Proseal cartridge. I ordered a hand gun form it from Vans and it was a cheat calking gun that bent the first time I used it. I have a proper calking gun that fits those cartridges well enough to work and has the strength to do the fix. If I didn’t, I would take the cartridge to the hardware store and look for the best fit I could find.
 
I have 2 leftover cartridges I would sell for the Spruce price, still fresh (currently in the freezer) expire in June and would lend the tools if you pay shipping and send the tools back cleaned with acetone when done.
1 B 1/2 and 1 B 2.
Your choice or both.
 
Carl Froehlich said:
As luck would have it, this SB came out a couple of weeks after i finished the tail kit. The tail parts have been hanging in the shop for a couple of years but will soon come down for final assembly. I’d like to do this SB first.

Anyone with tips on doing the pro-seal fix?

Carl
Click to expand...
If you haven’t built that section, I would do the same. But, flying a built bird, I will do the annual checks, unless an easier way to do the fix has been uncovered.
 
I plan on complying with all service bulletins prior to first flight on my -9A. That means I will be diving in and adding the recommended doublers where needed, instead of complying with the SB's by doing the inspections looking for cracks, then adding the doublers. It will be done prior to paint, and out of the way.
 
tldavis said:
I have 2 leftover cartridges I would sell for the Spruce price, still fresh (currently in the freezer) expire in June and would lend the tools if you pay shipping and send the tools back cleaned with acetone when done.
1 B 1/2 and 1 B 2.
Your choice or both.
Click to expand...
Tim, Do you still have this offer on the table? I have not used proseal on anything in the last 6 years....and need some to secure the lead counter weight in my 8 rudder
Happy to work with you on your offer if your willing...
Doug
my email is [email protected]
Cell is 231-239-3621 for texting.
Thanks
 
Why does it have be Proseal? I would think any type of silicon sealant (even a 2 part) with vibration dampening properties would be much easier to perform the SB.
 
Jesse23 said:
Why does it have be Proseal? I would think any type of silicon sealant (even a 2 part) with vibration dampening properties would be much easier to perform the SB.
Click to expand...

I’m sure the answer is that Vans did the repair/reinforcement with Proseal and was satisfied with the result. They wont recommend something they haven’t tested. But we are free to come up with alternate approaches. Even RTV might work if someone wants to experiment.
 
Silicone sealants often cure with acid so promote corrosion in aluminium. A polyurethane sealant uses atmospheric moisture and may be better. Proseal (polysulpide type sealants) are designed to be used on aluminium.
 
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