What's new
Van's Air Force

The definitive Van's Aircraft support community! Buying, building or flying an RV? Join our exclusive family of mentors and enthusiasts!

Stabilator fairings help....

Y

YME

Well Known Member
Sponsor
Started Stabilator Fairings and got a question above the recessed area. As shown in the plans they want a sharp inside corner so the the skin is somewhat flush with the fairing. See pic


I have a hard time getting that done. Tried using a file with edge teeth but not happy with results. Has anyone used a razor blade or heated the fairing to get rid of the inside radius. What did you do? The plans also give you a dimension of 040" from top of fairing to flange.
I made a boo-boo and cut away to much clearance for the rib bracket. Should I order another fairing or is there a fix.IMG_2855.jpegIMG_2855.jpegtempImagezlIrLz.pngtempImageBaSvn8.png
 
I have had pretty good results with a coarse file to get a square edge. I would repair the gap with epoxy mixed with flox or a similar filler.
 
mbell said:
I have had pretty good results with a coarse file to get a square edge. I would repair the gap with epoxy mixed with flox or a similar filler.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike. Do not know anything about fox, etc. Did you do that later in the build?
 
I tried a sharp, 6" bastard file but what worked best was a little triangular file, about 4" + handle. The 60 degree corner made it easy to cut back a nice 90 degree corner into the fairing.

Comments about rebuilding up an over-cut point by putting in some epoxy + flox (chopped cotton fibers), then re-cutting the groove, are spot on. Besides the EAA source, West Systems also has useful product info.

--Chris
 
CTCole said:
I tried a sharp, 6" bastard file but what worked best was a little triangular file, about 4" + handle. The 60 degree corner made it easy to cut back a nice 90 degree corner into the fairing.

Comments about rebuilding up an over-cut point by putting in some epoxy + flox (chopped cotton fibers), then re-cutting the groove, are spot on. Besides the EAA source, West Systems also has useful product info.

--Chris
Click to expand...
Chris

Fitted one stabilator fairing and it shows gap around fairing. This seems to be because of the thickness of the rib and skin together as seen in the photo. Is there something I have to do or will this be addressed when I get it painted? Pictures got turned around sideways when I uploaded them.
 

Attachments

  • tempImageGWpWi2.png
    tempImageGWpWi2.png
    6.3 MB · Views: 43
  • tempImageGaJ2tk.png
    tempImageGaJ2tk.png
    8.8 MB · Views: 44
YME said:
Chris

Fitted one stabilator fairing and it shows gap around fairing. This seems to be because of the thickness of the rib and skin together as seen in the photo. Is there something I have to do or will this be addressed when I get it painted? Pictures got turned around sideways when I uploaded them.
Click to expand...
The first photo looks like maybe the recess in the edge of the fairing isn't as deep as it should be, so that the skin (plus rib) stand proud of the surface of the fairing. Is that correct? The surfaces of the fairing & stabilator should be flush. If they're not, you could either sand/file the recess so that it is deeper (i.e. more "drop" from surface to flange), or build up the fairing surface with epoxy + flox (easy to make look lumpy, ugh, but could be worked to a nice finish), or a little of both.

Paint never hides anything, at least on airplanes -- only makes errors etc. more visible.
 
CTCole said:
The first photo looks like maybe the recess in the edge of the fairing isn't as deep as it should be, so that the skin (plus rib) stand proud of the surface of the fairing. Is that correct? The surfaces of the fairing & stabilator should be flush. If they're not, you could either sand/file the recess so that it is deeper (i.e. more "drop" from surface to flange), or build up the fairing surface with epoxy + flox (easy to make look lumpy, ugh, but could be worked to a nice finish), or a little of both.

Paint never hides anything, at least on airplanes -- only makes errors etc. more visible.
Click to expand...
I will check. The KIA show a .040" between the top surface of the fairing and the fairing flange. The skin with the rib measure .052". I was afraid of sanding the flange because it is not that thick and afraid the pulled rivets would not be held securely. Hope I explained that properly.
 
YME said:
I will check. The KIA show a .040" between the top surface of the fairing and the fairing flange. The skin with the rib measure .052". I was afraid of sanding the flange because it is not that thick and afraid the pulled rivets would not be held securely. Hope I explained that properly.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's clear. You can build up the back side with epoxy & fabric if it seems too thin after sanding/filing the external surface.
 
CTCole said:
Yes, that's clear. You can build up the back side with epoxy & fabric if it seems too thin after sanding/filing the external surface.
Click to expand...
Gotcha. So I could use .020" aluminum strip for same purpose.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top