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Baggage Tie Downs - Afterthought

skelrad

Well Known Member
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I completely spaced putting baggage tie downs in place before I riveted the floors down. Is there any reason not to just use the aft bulkhead flange nutplates/screws to hold some D rings, versus pop riveting something down to the floor without having a reinforcement underneath? For the front tie downs, I could do the same using the screws that hold on the flap arm covers. Yes, no? I can't imagine that under most circumstances the tie downs will be under all that much stress.

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I completely spaced putting baggage tie downs in place before I riveted the floors down. Is there any reason not to just use the aft bulkhead flange nutplates/screws to hold some D rings, versus pop riveting something down to the floor without having a reinforcement underneath? For the front tie downs, I could do the same using the screws that hold on the flap arm covers. Yes, no? I can't imagine that under most circumstances the tie downs will be under all that much stress.
I think that is an excellent approach for most of the stuff you'll fly as baggage. Now, if you're flying around with anvils or other heavy, sturdy objects that would do a lot of damage if they got loose (say in an off-airport landing), you'd probably want something stronger.
 
I think that is an excellent approach for most of the stuff you'll fly as baggage. Now, if you're flying around with anvils or other heavy, sturdy objects that would do a lot of damage if they got loose (say in an off-airport landing), you'd probably want something stronger.
I do moonlight as an Acme salesman, but I suppose the products can just be shipped separately. Every time I put a pop rivet in I think to myself that it really doesn't seem like it would take much force to pull them out. I have to wonder if a screw in a nutplate would actually provide more holding power in an accident anyway. Spread that force out even more by putting in 4 D rings and running a net through all of them and I think it may actually be better in the end.
 
I was concerned about lack of tiedowns in my baggage compartment, but I never hit enough turbulence to move the stuff around. I normally dona’t have anything heavy back there like toilets or e bikes for my new house, so i see little need for tiedowns. Since i don't do aerobatics.
 
I installed a few strategically placed 10-32 nutplates and run eyebolts into them.

Ed
But those need washers so the shank is under tension, otherwise bolt will move in threaded hole and wear out threads or shank will bend. I think an aluminum bracket witha 1/2” hole for carabiner would be better.
 
I put these in after the floor was riveted down. Put the rear on the step cover plate and the fronts I could reach underneath from the front. Comes with backing plate, screws, and lock nuts.
 

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I did the same as Jetmart above in both my 7 and 8 except I installed mine before riveting the floor. Baggage tie downs are a requirement for us in Canada.
 
But those need washers so the shank is under tension, otherwise bolt will move in threaded hole and wear out threads or shank will bend. I think an aluminum bracket witha 1/2” hole for carabiner would be better.
I did as well, but used shorter eye bolts. They don't have a shoulder.
 
I completely spaced putting baggage tie downs in place before I riveted the floors down. Is there any reason not to just use the aft bulkhead flange nutplates/screws to hold some D rings, versus pop riveting something down to the floor without having a reinforcement underneath? For the front tie downs, I could do the same using the screws that hold on the flap arm covers. Yes, no? I can't imagine that under most circumstances the tie downs will be under all that much stress.

View attachment 79003
I have used these home made versions on several planes. They work great, and are removable. Just used some pieces of .063 out of the bin.IMG_0132.jpeg
 
But those need washers so the shank is under tension, otherwise bolt will move in threaded hole and wear out threads or shank will bend. I think an aluminum bracket witha 1/2” hole for carabiner would be better.
Or just buy shorter ones with the correct grip length. The picture at ACS is representative but not definitive.

Ed
 
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