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Dome nuts instead of nyloc’s for canopy rails

TASEsq

TASEsq

Well Known Member
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I have seen it done in a -7, but has anyone used dome (acorn) nuts on the inside of the canopy rails, instead of the called out nyloc’s?

It would look a lot better in my opinion, but of course they wouldn’t be locknuts (and you can’t use loctite). So maybe a bad idea?

Just wondering as I installed the nuts tonight.IMG_3761.jpegIMG_3762.jpeg
 
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Paul is right. I only wish I had thought of that pun. There are thousands of RV's out there with Nyloc nuts in this application and nobody notices. Don't create a mechanical problem trying to alleviate a perceived aesthetic one.
 
I used them on my first RV 25 years ago, with a small lock washer, because I knew no better. Didn’t use them anymore on my next 5 RV’s.
 
I did this on my RV-7 slider canopy, using self-locking acorn nuts. I wanted to keep the number of exposed fasteners in the cockpit to a minimum, and I like the results.
 
mburch said:
I did this on my RV-7 slider canopy, using self-locking acorn nuts. I wanted to keep the number of exposed fasteners in the cockpit to a minimum, and I like the results.
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Any ideas where to get them? I’ve only been able to find this kind:
 

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I appreciate everyone’s replies. It was just out of curiosity - I see why normal AN365 nuts are used. Here’s a photo of a stainless dome nut with a nylon set locking feature.
 

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TASEsq said:
I have seen it done in a -7, but has anyone used dome (acorn) nuts on the inside of the canopy rails, instead of the called out nyloc’s?

It would look a lot better in my opinion, but of course they wouldn’t be locknuts (and you can’t use loctite). So maybe a bad idea?

Just wondering as I installed the nuts tonight.
Click to expand...
mburch said:
I did this on my RV-7 slider canopy, using self-locking acorn nuts. I wanted to keep the number of exposed fasteners in the cockpit to a minimum, and I like the results.
Click to expand...
It would be a contrast in "finishing' level installed next to rivet shop heads. Will it matter to anyone else? Probably not but the cool thing is, you get to do what you want.

This isn't primary structure but I would question the use of these cap nuts there or even on secondary. How would the installer and subsequent QC verify the thread relief is through the locking feature of the female fastener? Not advocating; random thought is all.
 
Freemasm said:
It would be a contrast in "finishing' level installed next to rivet shop heads. Will it matter to anyone else? Probably not but the cool thing is, you get to do what you want.

This isn't primary structure but I would question the use of these cap nuts there or even on secondary.
Click to expand...
You're absolutely right, I would only use this type of fastener in a low-stress application where it can be inspected. Properly-installed canopy screws are only barely tightened, so there are no strength concerns, as long as you use some kind of thread-locking mechanism and/or substance.

It's certainly not for everybody, but I see little harm in it. In my particular case, my wife doesn't notice rivet heads, but in our previous RV she said she thought it was "weird that you can see the nuts and bolts"! So for her benefit I made an effort to make the interior a little more automotive-like.
 
I always thought inside the cockpit nyloc's properly aligned looked fine, it was on the outside the heads looked odd. How about using properly sized Hi-Lok pins? Would look nice from the outside ?Screenshot 2024-12-03 191504.jpg
 
TASEsq said:
I have seen it done in a -7, but has anyone used dome (acorn) nuts on the inside of the canopy rails, instead of the called out nyloc’s?

It would look a lot better in my opinion, but of course they wouldn’t be locknuts (and you can’t use loctite). So maybe a bad idea?

Just wondering as I installed the nuts tonight.View attachment 75511View attachment 75512
Click to expand...
I swapped out a few to cover the exposed threads on my 12. Threads are sharp and my old thin skin needs fewer bandaids!
 
dmattmul said:
.... How about using properly sized Hi-Lok pins? Would look nice from the outside ?
Click to expand...
I'm a fan of Hi-Loks The collars are designed where the hex head portion snaps off after proper torque is achieved which is too high for this app unless you cheat it. Usually it's unintentional/undesirable but you can side load the hex portion and it will snap off prematurely. If you could make it work, it would definitely look cool IMO.
 
dmattmul said:
Yes, I know ADHD issue.
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IDK. You probably have OCD as ADHD would have some different or missing parts installed. Unrelatedly you possibly something completely new; Acronym Dyslexia which caused you to type the wrong one. IMO, AFAIK.

Anyway, aside from the poor attempt at humor, I'll strongly consider your Hi-Lok approach for a similar canopy app if I can get the collars to comply with the low torque. Something a pair of mini vice grips should do it a side-load won't. Thanks for the idea. Enjoy your hump day.
 
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