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Brake Master Cylinder Return Spring

n981ms

Well Known Member
Does any one have a recommended return spring (source/part number) for Matco MC4 Master cylinder?
 
My right brake liked to stick. It meant dragging the left brake sometimes to keep the aircraft straight on the ground. Plus, it made using the tow bar a real workout. Many folks use return springs on the master cylinders to mitigate this problem.

So off to the local Ace Hardware store for some Hillman, item #115, 5"x5/8"x0.042" (~3 TPI) springs at $1.15 each (I tried other spring sizes but those worked best). About an hour of my time under the panel and problem was solved.

Right seat pedals.
 
….or you could fix the problem. Lots of posts on how that’s done. Search “brake drag”.
 
Brake Springs (master cylinder )

McMaster-Carr part numbers below for the brake springs
Spring 9657K435
Lower nylon sleeve bearing: 6294K441
washers (for seating the lower nylon sleeve bearing) 90295A470
Top nylon sleeve bearing: 6389K625
Set screw shaft collar: 9946K13
 
Brake Springs (master cylinder )

McMaster-Carr part numbers below for the brake springs
Spring 9657K435
Lower nylon sleeve bearing: 6294K441
washers (for seating the lower nylon sleeve bearing) 90295A470
Top nylon sleeve bearing: 6389K625
Set screw shaft collar: 9946K13

I believe this is the set up I have.
 

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If I see springs added to brakes to cover up an easy fix, it makes me wonder what else hasn’t been fixed.
Fix your brake pedals folks. It’s not any harder than adding springs.
 
Eliminating any actual or potential causes for the cylinder to bind is just as easy as putting in the “Tim Taylor fix”……”more power” (OK, more force in this case).

As mentioned above, the causes and fixes are well documented here in past posts.

My Matco cylinders don’t have external springs, and have never bound up. 1400 hours, 11 years. All seals replaced one time (using the Matco kit) at about 1000 hours, 8 years in service. The brakes get used a bit more on an A model than a tail dragger.
 
Eliminating any actual or potential causes for the cylinder to bind is just as easy as putting in the “Tim Taylor fix”……”more power” (OK, more force in this case).

As mentioned above, the causes and fixes are well documented here in past posts.

My Matco cylinders don’t have external springs, and have never bound up. 1400 hours, 11 years. All seals replaced one time (using the Matco kit) at about 1000 hours, 8 years in service. The brakes get used a bit more on an A model than a tail dragger.
I should have been more specific. I had no problems through hundreds of hours until recently brake pads and a cylinder were replaced during annual. Therefore I believe there is no misalignment. I will take a closer look though. I did indeed search "brake drag." And have done so again just now. I put a spacer on the caliper and thought I had fixed the problem but it did not. I found numerous references to potentially weak springs in a master cylinder. I know the master cylinder not returning is the problem because when I pull it back manually I have no issues. I will recheck alignment.
Thank you for the responses.
 
I should have been more specific. I had no problems through hundreds of hours until recently brake pads and a cylinder were replaced during annual. Therefore I believe there is no misalignment. I will take a closer look though. I did indeed search "brake drag." And have done so again just now. I put a spacer on the caliper and thought I had fixed the problem but it did not. I found numerous references to potentially weak springs in a master cylinder. I know the master cylinder not returning is the problem because when I pull it back manually I have no issues. I will recheck alignment.
Thank you for the responses.
Hmmm....interesting. You might try rebuilding the cylinders with the Matco rebuild kit. It comes with all new seals, new piston, and........new springs. Even though the springs in yours may be OK, the rubber seals do age over time, resulting in the rubber getting hard, and possibly causing the sticking you have encountered.

The rebuild kits are not expensive, and fairly easy to install.

I rebuilt mine because one of them was just beginning to leak at the piston shaft. It wasn't enough to drip, but that would have come next. ;)
 
I recently rebuilt mine after 20 years One shaft had a small leak and another was not returning fully. Fixed both problems. YMMV.

Cheers, Sean
 
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