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"Blind" ADEL Clamp ...

HFS

HFS

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... Think blind pop rivet - can be "set" with access to one side only. Once in a while you have the need to install an ADEL clamp where there is no access on the bottom mounting flange to "wrench" on a nut. Such as the case for these shown below - they go on pushrod tubes (between cylinders) for the mounting plate for my flow divider ("spider") on the engine for my Rocket.

What to do - silver braze a 10-32 hi temp nut to the bottom flange.

HFS
 

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HFS said:
... Think blind pop rivet - can be "set" with access to one side only. Once in a while you have the need to install an ADEL clamp where there is no access on the bottom mounting flange to "wrench" on a nut. Such as the case for these shown below - they go on pushrod tubes (between cylinders) for the mounting plate for my flow divider ("spider") on the engine for my Rocket.

What to do - silver braze a 10-32 hi temp nut to the bottom flange.

HFS
Click to expand...
do you use the oxyacetylene torch to braze this? I had tried to use the butane torch from Homedepot but the heat level only let me do aluminum brazing.
 
PhatRV said:
do you use the oxyacetylene torch to braze this? I had tried to use the butane torch from Homedepot but the heat level only let me do aluminum brazing.
Click to expand...
Smith Jewelers “Mini” torch & SilverBraze (.045) Rod.
 
HFS said:
Custom bracket to put the divider down in between pushrod tubes for better cooling efficiency.
Click to expand...
Both not great mounting areas for the divider, but I would still pick the stock case mount location (200-300 degree ambient heat) compared to the (300-400 degree radiant heat) right above the cylinders. Especially after shut down & attempting a hot start.
 
HFS said:
... Think blind pop rivet - can be "set" with access to one side only. Once in a while you have the need to install an ADEL clamp where there is no access on the bottom mounting flange to "wrench" on a nut. Such as the case for these shown below - they go on pushrod tubes (between cylinders) for the mounting plate for my flow divider ("spider") on the engine for my Rocket.

What to do - silver braze a 10-32 hi temp nut to the bottom flange.

HFS
Click to expand...
These come in all sizes for machine threads or ss screws
 

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HFS said:
... Think blind pop rivet - can be "set" with access to one side only. Once in a while you have the need to install an ADEL clamp where there is no access on the bottom mounting flange to "wrench" on a nut. Such as the case for these shown below - they go on pushrod tubes (between cylinders) for the mounting plate for my flow divider ("spider") on the engine for my Rocket.

What to do - silver braze a 10-32 hi temp nut to the bottom flange.

HFS
Click to expand...
I like to use J-B Weld for things like this. It's just as permanent as a weld.
 
sf3543 said:
These come in all sizes for machine threads or ss screws
Click to expand...
Way, Way better solution - too bad I am "old school" (building since 1981), and not smart enough to look around for a logical progression, when I can simply, in-house, "manufacture" one in a couple of minutes ...

HFS
Pilot135pd said:
I like to use J-B Weld for things like this. It's just as permanent as a weld.
Click to expand...
...if you get rid of the deformation on the nut to allow easy "wrenching" it is, if not, maybe not so much ...
 
HFS said:
...if you get rid of the deformation on the nut to allow easy "wrenching" it is, if not, maybe not so much ...
Click to expand...
Isn't the purpose of gluing, welding, J-B Welding the nut to the clamp so you don't have to do any "wrenching" ?
 
are the pushrod tubes pretty durable? I’ve not held one Yet. Will your custom mount connect two cylinders or use the tubes from the same cylinder. I’ve wondered in the past if each cylinder move and flex a bit. That unknown flex Combined with unknown durability of the tubes….maybe I think too much but maybe it’s why I’ve not seen the, used more for stuff like that. Build, watch and let us know how it works out.
 
HFS said:
... Think blind pop rivet - can be "set" with access to one side only. Once in a while you have the need to install an ADEL clamp where there is no access on the bottom mounting flange to "wrench" on a nut. Such as the case for these shown below - they go on pushrod tubes (between cylinders) for the mounting plate for my flow divider ("spider") on the engine for my Rocket.

What to do - silver braze a 10-32 hi temp nut to the bottom flange.

HFS
Click to expand...
That is an interesting idea, how did you hold the nut in position while brazing it, also how to prevent the molten braze from flowing into the threads?
 
Brantel said:
Super easy for anyone with even basic TIG skills assuming compatible materials. Could even use the TIG to silver solder them.
Click to expand...
Don't forget about the cad plating... Always a good time with tig if not fully removed.
 
scard said:
Don't forget about the cad plating... Always a good time with tig if not fully removed.
Click to expand...
Two things - cad plating fumes from direct/indirect heat are hazardous; and, a little known fact is that muratic acid (think pool service) dissolves cad plating. Anytime I am applying heat to a (previously) plated part, I "dunk" it in muratic acid until the bubbles of dissolution stop - then, good to go ...

HFS
 
Bcone1381 said:
are the pushrod tubes pretty durable? I’ve not held one Yet. Will your custom mount connect two cylinders or use the tubes from the same cylinder. I’ve wondered in the past if each cylinder move and flex a bit. That unknown flex Combined with unknown durability of the tubes….maybe I think too much but maybe it’s why I’ve not seen the, used more for stuff like that. Build, watch and let us know how it works out.
Click to expand...
Baffles are usually made from separate overlapping pieces for each cylinder because it's believed they'll crack due to the gap between cylinders changing during thermal cycling. I'd expect the pushrod tubes to move too, albeit less as they are closer to the base of the cylinder.
 
Snowflake said:
Baffles are usually made from separate overlapping pieces for each cylinder because it's believed they'll crack due to the gap between cylinders changing during thermal cycling. I'd expect the pushrod tubes to move too, albeit less as they are closer to the base of the cylinder.
Click to expand...
My (one piece) composite plenum has been on my IO540-C4B5 for 22+ years, spanning all the cylinders, at their outboard most position; and, there has been no indication of "stress" related breakdown of the plenum.

So although the cylinders will move (microscopically) one relative to another - there is enough "absorptive" capacity in the body of the hight temp fiberglass cover to accommodate this movement ...

David
 
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