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Practice/training kits for RV-12 project

I agree with Bob, take a class first and foremost. Something you are going to learn working with Vans' kits is that they will show you one way, but a lot of the time the community has best practices that are far better than what they show you. The instructional information from Vans' even acknowledges that they are just showing you one way. Taking a class will expose you to many of these kinds of things.

As for specific classes, the EAA SportAir Workshops can be good, I haven't taken their sheet metal class, but I did take a fiberglass class with them. The one thing I will say about that is that the main project of the class showed us a technique that was definitely not according to the instructions from Vans, and while it works, I'm not sure I'm 100% sold on it. I would have liked to know ahead of time that they were explicitly not showing us the recommended technique by Vans. Maybe their technique is better, maybe it isn't, but I don't know. Personally, I attended the Fundamentals class for sheet metal at Synergy Air South. They did a decent job, but I also have some complaints. The class felt very rushed to me, like it really needed to be two days. They had a senior person overseeing a trainee who taught the class the day I showed up, and it was a bit frustrating that the guy clearly didn't know the material he was teaching as well as his senior, but he didn't seem willing to just say he didn't know the answer. So he'd sit there and try really hard to come up with an answer rather than just ask the guy standing right there who obviously knows. The Synergy Air class also felt like they were trying to sell you on their builder assist program really hard, like the Fundamentals was more about getting you in the door so they could make a bigger sale than anything else. It's probably a perfectly good program, but I didn't want it and there was a lot of attention given to it all day. That said, the senior tech who was overseeing is incredibly knowledgeable there and absolutely knows his shit. I get the impression he is a bit overloaded. At the end of the day, I learned soooooooooo much in both the SportAir fiberglass and the Synergy Fundamentals sheet metal classes, that they were overwhelmingly worth the time and money. TL;DR- Take a class, its worth it. AFAIK the SportAir sheet metal class has you build RV TRAINING PROJECT-1, that's what it looked like from across the room. Synergy Air definitely has you build RV TRAINING PROJECT-1 in their class.

After you take a relevant class, then you should start building training kit(s) until you are satisfied that had those been real airplane parts, you would gladly fly in the airplane they become a part of. It's okay to build more than one training kit, and a lot of people do. You are going to make a lot of mistakes even after taking a class, some of which might make you want to try again, and its okay. That's what the kits are for. Maybe other people are wizards at this, but I'm working on my third RV TRAINING PROJECT-1 (one in class, one in my hangar, made a couple mistakes, working on a third one, going for perfection, also doing internal priming this time).

As for which project, I'd suggest you not limit yourself to just one. The blind rivets project is newer AFAIK, and is probably directed at RV-12 builders. RV TRAINING PROJECT-1 is just a good kit that engages a lot of interesting problems, and I definitely recommend it. Can't speak for the toolbox nor the light.
 
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Awesome. Thanks for the suggestions, guys! I'll definitely search for a workshop or class in my area. I'm in the Seattle area, so both WA and Oregon are within reach. I checked Synergy Air and it seems their classes are all in GA ...

If I can't find a suitable in-person one, do you guys feel EAA videos can also do a decent job? I'm not sure how much stuff is only perceived when you have someone standing beside you and making corrections.
 
If I can't find a suitable in-person one, do you guys feel EAA videos can also do a decent job? I'm not sure how much stuff is only perceived when you have someone standing beside you and making corrections.
One big reason to do it in person is they will have tools that you might not have, and some of them are quite costly. I learned during my class that I really strongly prefer a tungsten bucking bar over steel. So much so that I have no intention on owning any steel bucking bars at all other than a really thin one for the tight areas of control surface ribs. I learned I don’t want to buy a DRDT2 because I’m not that happy with the dimpling compared to the results I get with a c-frame and a hammer. I learned the pneumatic squeezer is the greatest tool that I always want to use if it’s an option.
 
One big reason to do it in person is they will have tools that you might not have, and some of them are quite costly. I learned during my class that I really strongly prefer a tungsten bucking bar over steel. So much so that I have no intention on owning any steel bucking bars at all other than a really thin one for the tight areas of control surface ribs. I learned I don’t want to buy a DRDT2 because I’m not that happy with the dimpling compared to the results I get with a c-frame and a hammer. I learned the pneumatic squeezer is the greatest tool that I always want to use if it’s an option.
I just checked tungsten bucking bars they look really nice 😄 (and expensive 💸). My understanding is fancy bucking bars are not essential for RV-12 given it's mostly pulled rivets. Is that correct?

Yes, I totally agree with you that I don't even know what cooler options there are without seeing them ...
 
I just checked tungsten bucking bars they look really nice 😄 (and expensive 💸). My understanding is fancy bucking bars are not essential for RV-12 given it's mostly pulled rivets. Is that correct?

Yes, I totally agree with you that I don't even know what cooler options there are without seeing them ...
The RV-12 is mostly pulled rivets, but there are still quite a few solid rivets. I am not familiar with what percentage of those have to be bucked versus squeezed or back riveted.

The reason the tungsten bucking bars are so great is that the metal is much more dense than steel, so for a given size, they have an astoundingly higher mass. This greatly increases how effective they are at bucking while not transmitting as much of that force to your wrists. Thus they are both more comfortable to use, and more effective.
 
I'm a proponent of mentors. Find a really good builder nearby and build one or more of the practice kits. Drill them apart and rebuild. You will learn both assembly and disassembly and in the process, you will get a good idea for which tools you like. You'll gain a friend who is a phone call away and probably willing to help.
I've helped several. It's quite rewarding.
Edit...I shouldn't claim to be good. I try with all my heart to help anyone who asks.
 
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The RV-12iS has all pulled or squeezed rivets. No need for a rivet gun or bucking bars. On the other hand, the tools list Van's provides is a little out of date, too. I have needed only one of the taps suggested, but an added dimple die and a couple of different drill bits. I haven't used several of the drill sizes suggested either, yet, and I'm just finishing the fuselage kit.

To answer the original question, the Basic Sheet Metal project is a good starter, which I also used to calibrate my countersinks. I see they now have something labeled RV TRAINING PROJ BLIND RIVETS which is probably also good if you're exploring the project. I suggest asking Van's directly what they recommend, because it wasn't obvious which practice kits were applicable to the RV-12 when I started. I made a toolbox, but that uses some rivets that must be bucked.

I also second finding a mentor. It'll save you a lot of time and headaches!
 
Whichever project(s) you use for practice-- after you finish, take it apart and then put it back together. The practice of removing rivets is going to be even more important than the practice riveting. Make sure you remove pull rivets, countersunk, round heads Do a couple hundred before you start building.
 
I'm a proponent of mentors. Find a really good builder nearby and build one or more of the practice kits. Drill them apart and rebuild. You will learn both assembly and disassembly and in the process, you will get a good idea for which tools you like. You'll gain a friend who is a phone call away and probably willing to help.
I've helped several. It's quite rewarding.
Edit...I shouldn't claim to be good. I try with all my heart to help anyone who asks.
I can vouch for Larry … he does help in any way he can. TY. 😃
 
One thing I can confirm now is “RV training project 1” is not a good match for RV-12 builders if you don’t have a rivet gun for solid rivets. There are a couple of them you can’t reach with a squeezer.
 
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