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FINALLY! New Ram-Air Intake products from HP Aircraft

scsmith

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As I've hinted for the past few months, I am now finally ready to announce the introduction of two NEW different ram-air intake systems. Both share some common design features of the old Rod Bower ram-air intake systems, but both also offer improvements. Both use a K&N RU-2510 conical air filter and fit the RSA-5 fuel servo and (I believe FM-150 also). Mounting to other fuel servos or carburetors can be accommodated by special order. Like the Bower system, both attach to the fuel servo by means of a worm-type hose clamp on the base neck of the K&N filter clamping to an inlet adapter ring that mounts to the fuel servo. This attachment provides some flexibility to account for engine movement. Additional flexibility is provided at the connection sleeve to the intake tube in the cowl. Also similar to the Bower system, the filter canister occupies some volume up front that probably requires some alteration of the cowl -- My RV-8 ram-air intake is smile shaped and just naturally blends into the cowl in a way that creates enough clearance for the filter canister. I have not tried it, but I suspect that a modest bulge would be required for clearance if you have an otherwise smooth Vans cowl. With the extra length of the Sam James and Showplanes cowls, it might fit without alteration.

The first system will be called Type 1, and is fairly similar in most respects to the original Rod Bower system, except that rather than use reed valves to draw alternate intake air from the lower cowl area, it uses a snorkel to pull alternate intake air from the #2 cylinder cooling intake ramp. Here is a picture of the prototype installed on my RV-8 (it has been in service for 15 years).

ram-air type 1-installed-small.jpg
You can see that I use a neoprene foam material to make a connection sleeve to the intake tube in the cowl.

The overall length of the Type-1 intake from fuel servo face to the front of the alternate air valve is 6".
There are two advantages of this system: first, it draws alternate air from the cooling ramp which is at a fairly high pressure (almost full ram pressure) and is cool, rather than intaking hot air from the lower cowl. The other advantage (compared to the Type 2 system) is that the alternate air source is separate from the primary ram-air intake source, so if by bizarre chance a bird got lodged in your ram-air intake, you could switch to alternate air. A disadvantage of this system is that the alternate air pathway is not closed off when used in full ram-intake mode, so there may be a small amount of 'back flow' through the filter and out the intake snorkel, reducing the ram air pressure. I believe this is very small, but this is the issue that I wanted to address with the type 2 system.


The Type 2 system uses a different filter canister that incorporates an annular bypass duct around the alternate air valve and into the filter canister. The operation is shown schematically here:
Ram Air schematic.jpg
The principal advantage of this design is that full ram pressure is supplied in both ram-intake mode and alternate air mode, and no pressure is lost through back flow through the filter. One disadvantage of this design is that since both modes use the same intake, in the remote chance that a bird or large snow ball obstructs your intake, you won't get any intake air. If this unlikely scenario concerns you, you could install a spring-hinged blow-in door in the filter canister, similar to those typically installed in filtered air boxes.

The alternate air valve with the annular bypass requires that the canister be somewhat longer. The prototype, shown below, is currently 8.75" long from the fuel servo face to the front of the intake tube, but can be trimmed to 8.5" if the intake tube is trimmed (trim line shown in red) . The tooling for the filter canister is currently being modified to reduce the length by almost 3/4", so the length will be approximately 7.75" on the production model.
ram-air type 2-assembled-small.jpg
The length makes this unit somewhat challenging to install in a standard Vans cowl. My RV-8 cowl has a smile-shaped intake similar to a P-51 Mustang intake, with a transition from the smile shape to the 3" round tube over about 2.5". That transition uses up enough length that I can not install the Type 2 system in my cowl. If you have a simple round intake tube (like a Sam James cowl intake) then I think you could install the Type 2 intake system in a Vans cowl. If you have a longer Sam James or Showplanes cowl, then there should be plenty of length available to install the Type 2 intake system.

Here is a picture of all the goodies that come assembled on the Type 2 intake system:
type 2, parts-small.jpg
The alternate air valve with bypass duct is 3D-printed from plastic. The first three are nylon, which is nice and ductile and has good high-temperature properties, but it has a somewhat granular surface finish that is difficult to sand smooth. For future parts, I am considering switching to ABS. I think it will still be ductile enough and can be sanded smooth.

Product details questions, any special features desired (e.g. fitting to a M-S HA-6 carb or an FM-200, installing a spring-hinged blow-in door, kit option details, etc) Please comment in this thread or contact me here through PM "Conversation".

Ordering and pricing:
You can order through HP Aircraft (an advertiser here on VAF)

Both the Type 1 and Type 2 systems can be ordered fully assembled or in kit form, where you do some of the final assembly, and save some money.
The price I am offering these at is driven by the costs of the parts that I have to have made or buy off the shelf, plus my labor time in making the fiberglass parts and assembling the pieces.

The Type 1 Intake System is $1000 fully assembled with the snorkel transition piece bonded in place, but you supply the snorkel.

The Type 2 Intake System is $1150, fully assembled.

Options/extras:

Subtract $250 for either system in kit form, but please discuss with me first what assembly tasks you will have to perform.
I have a limited supply of 1/4" neoprene foam material (like a mouse pad or wet suit) that can be used to make a intake coupling sleeve. Price TBD
I could prototype a spring-hinge blow-in door for you, Price TBD

Since the prototype Type 2 system (pictured above) is about 3/4" longer than the production model will be, I will sell that one at a discount. $1000. But please have some degree of confidence that your cowling can accommodate the length.

Lead Times:
I have a limited quantity of the various bits that get assembled, and I will make the fiberglass canister parts to order. So lead time will be somewhat variable and dependent on the responsiveness of my suppliers. It took a month to get five throttle shafts for the alternate air valve from my machinist last time! I can't afford to support much inventory, so I will order parts as needed depending on how many orders I get. Some parts have significant quantity discounts, some don't.
 
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Tasks that would be performed by you if you would like to order the kit option:

1) cut the rubber front panel out of the K&N conical filter, to a clearance fit for the alternate air valve
2) drill thru the rubber filter front for the five mounting screws that attach the alternate air valve (hardware provided)
3) assemble the alternate air valve, requires staking the brass screws that attach the throttle plate to the throttle shaft, assembling and fitting the control arm (hardware provided)
4)(a) cut the 4" hole in the rear panel of the canister to fit the rubber rear mounting neck of the K&N conical filter
4)(b) for the Type 1 system, cut the 2.75" hole in the front of the filter canister to fit the alternate air valve
5) match drill five holes attaching the filter canister to the rear panel of the canister, and install five plate nuts. (hardware provided)
 
Perhaps consider a third offering, a Type 3 filtered-all-the-time ram. Sure does simplify things. No filter modification, no butterfly, no control cable, no possibility of anything entering the engine...and no difference in manifold pressure.
 
Perhaps consider a third offering, a Type 3 filtered-all-the-time ram. Sure does simplify things. No filter modification, no butterfly, no control cable, no possibility of anything entering the engine...and no difference in manifold pressure.
Yes, that would be an easy option. same canister and annular bypass nose piece, but don't cut the end out of the filter. Or just a small parabolic insert in the center of the nose piece to help turn the flow. It would still have a lot of length because I'd use the same canister. Sure I'll offer that.
 
Yes, that would be an easy option. same canister and annular bypass nose piece, but don't cut the end out of the filter. Or just a small parabolic insert in the center of the nose piece to help turn the flow.

Look at a Spectre SPE-HPR9831, a K&N product. Butt end fits the Bower adapter, nice blunt nose cap.

Canister and Filter.jpg

Reinforced silicone reducer couplers (https://www.siliconeintakes.com/intake-pipe-reducer/) can be cut to a custom length for the nose of the canister, and they're indestructible.

IMG_20240402_095841596.jpg
 
Look at a Spectre SPE-HPR9831, a K&N product. Butt end fits the Bower adapter, nice blunt nose cap.

View attachment 63294

Reinforced silicone reducer couplers (https://www.siliconeintakes.com/intake-pipe-reducer/) can be cut to a custom length for the nose of the canister, and they're indestructible.

View attachment 63295
Interesting. It does leave the nose of the filter unsupported, cantilevered off of its rear mounting flange. If that is not a problem, then this filter would save me the trouble of having the nose piece made.

One issue with all these intake systems is re-connecting the joiner sleeve when you put the cowl on. I've seen various solutions. One extreme is to have a removable portion of the cowl that you fit to the intake sleeve and then screw down, with screws or 1/4-turn fasteners. My neoprene sleeve is flexible enough, and my smile-to-round transition is big enough, that I can reach in with my fingers and push the sleeve into proper position. For people with cooling plenum sleeves at the inlet, it may be possible to reach in from the top and connect the intake sleeve before putting on the cooling intake sleeves. Other options?
 
Look at a Spectre SPE-HPR9831, a K&N product. Butt end fits the Bower adapter, nice blunt nose cap.

View attachment 63294

Reinforced silicone reducer couplers (https://www.siliconeintakes.com/intake-pipe-reducer/) can be cut to a custom length for the nose of the canister, and they're indestructible.

View attachment 63295
Dan, that filter is 7" long! That won't fit in my canister, which I've worked to keep as short as possible with the annular bypass duct. If there is a similar filter that is about 5" long, then we can offer that as a filtered-only ram inlet. It would be quite a bit less expensive, since no 3D printed nose piece required. Something like $500.
 
Dan, that filter is 7" long! That won't fit in my canister, which I've worked to keep as short as possible with the annular bypass duct. If there is a similar filter that is about 5" long, then we can offer that as a filtered-only ram inlet. It would be quite a bit less expensive, since no 3D printed nose piece required. Something like $500.

The red canister above was a direct replacement for a Bower canister, but it does have a larger diameter toward the front to buy clearance around the filter nose.

The trouble with a cone filter 5" long is reduced media area. The big filter didn't show any loss of MP as compared to the Bower with the butterfly wired open, apples to apples, same airplane, same flight conditions.

It does leave the nose of the filter unsupported, cantilevered off of its rear mounting flange. If that is not a problem, then this filter would save me the trouble of having the nose piece made.

I did clamp the filter to the Bower rear plate. Machined some little aluminum retainers, each held with a #8 screw through to a nutplate, but there other ways to skin that particular cat.

IMG_20240402_095816413.jpg

One issue with all these intake systems is re-connecting the joiner sleeve when you put the cowl on. I've seen various solutions. One extreme is to have a removable portion of the cowl that you fit to the intake sleeve and then screw down, with screws or 1/4-turn fasteners. My neoprene sleeve is flexible enough, and my smile-to-round transition is big enough, that I can reach in with my fingers and push the sleeve into proper position.

A one piece lower cowl would be a very good reason to keep the neoprene. Peter's -8 and mine both have the removable inlet fairing. Wasn't the removable fairing a Bower-supplied component?

Inlet Fairing.jpg
 
I've been brain dead here. I totally forgot the Bower canister came in shorter and longer versions. The shorty replacement Steve and Bob have created uses an RU-2510, while the red canister pictured above replaced the longer RU-2520 (now RU-3600) version of the Bower. With the goal being a drop-in for the short canister, the big Spectre SPE-HPR9831 indeed ain't gonna fit. That makes the Type 2 a best choice for most users replacing a bad Bower. Quite a lot better than the Bower, as it does not suck hot, low pressure air from the lower cowl when the butterfly is closed.

RU 2510 RU 2520-3600.jpg
 
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I have the Bower system and have found that the RU3600 filter will not fit because the rear filter connection is thicker than the 2520, so it will not fit in the Bower canister without cutting the rear aluminum ring. The inner diameter of the rear filter connection is too small to fit over the Bower supplied elbow that connects to the RSA5 fuel servo. I wonder if your type 2 filter will be a direct replacement for the Bower?
 
I have the Bower system and have found that the RU3600 filter will not fit because the rear filter connection is thicker than the 2520, so it will not fit in the Bower canister without cutting the rear aluminum ring. The inner diameter of the rear filter connection is too small to fit over the Bower supplied elbow that connects to the RSA5 fuel servo. I wonder if your type 2 filter will be a direct replacement for the Bower?
Hi Bob,
Our filter canisters and intakes are all pretty much direct replacements for the shorter Bower intake that uses the RU-2510 filter.
If you have the longer Bower filter that used the longer RU-2520, any of our ram-air intakes could replace it, but the length won't be the same, so you may have to modify your inlet scoop attachment to the canister.

Also, you mentioned an elbow....do you have a vertical induction sump with an elbow to attach your fuel servo? If so, I don't know if there is room in the cowl for our ram-air intakes, but if the Bower canister fit in there, ours should.
 
I did clamp the filter to the Bower rear plate. Machined some little aluminum retainers, each held with a #8 screw through to a nutplate, but there other ways to skin that particular cat.

View attachment 63347



A one piece lower cowl would be a very good reason to keep the neoprene. Peter's -8 and mine both have the removable inlet fairing. Wasn't the removable fairing a Bower-supplied component?

View attachment 63348
I'm just getting back to this thread after several months.

Dan - your little retainer clips are brilliant.
Our Canister for the Type-2 and Type-3 intakes is just a little bit too short to use the SPE-HPR9831 filter that Dan is using. So our Type-3 intake works exactly the same, except that we use a shorter filter RU-2510 and a 3d-printed nose piece that supports the front of it in the canister.


A few people have asked me about the bolt-on fiberglass intlet scoop. I had forgotten that Bower sold these. We could develop a bolt-on scoop like this at HP Aircraft - its kind of in our wheel-house, but I would need a blank cowl to fit to, and a lot of development time. But if someone has one that is not being used that could be copied, we would pull a mold from it and we could produce these.

We now have schematic sketches of how the Type 1,2,3 intakes work on our website, HPAIRCRAFT.COM. I have some dimensioned sketches that I can send out that would allow you to make a mock-up (from foam, wood, whatever) to check fitment and clearance to the cowl - just send me a PM if you are interested.
 
Hi Tim, I do have a little bit of data - but it depends on what you would want to compare to.
I’d be interested in the manifold pressure data in cruise with WOT. Specifically the actual manifold pressure compared with the atmospheric pressure corrected for altitude and temperature.

Current EMS systems capture this data.
Carl
 
I’d be interested in the manifold pressure data in cruise with WOT. Specifically the actual manifold pressure compared with the atmospheric pressure corrected for altitude and temperature.

Current EMS systems capture this data.
Carl
Mine does not. But I could provide an altimeter setting, an altimeter reading (or an altimeter reading with Kolsman set to 29.92) and an OAT, along with an IAS. Next time I fly I'll record a couple of points.

Thinking about it, if I set the altimeter to 29.92, read the altimeter, then go to a Std Atmosphere table, I think I can look up the corresponding atmospheric pressure. That, plus the IAS, will tell what the full pitot pressure (total pressure) is. We can compare the MAP to that. Sound good?
 
Mine does not. But I could provide an altimeter setting, an altimeter reading (or an altimeter reading with Kolsman set to 29.92) and an OAT, along with an IAS. Next time I fly I'll record a couple of points.

Thinking about it, if I set the altimeter to 29.92, read the altimeter, then go to a Std Atmosphere table, I think I can look up the corresponding atmospheric pressure. That, plus the IAS, will tell what the full pitot pressure (total pressure) is. We can compare the MAP to that. Sound good?
No worries, you just need to take some data manually.

First however you need to correct for any manifold pressure instrument error. This is done by:
- With the engine off, set your altimeter to sea level (zero feet) and note the Kolsman reading.
- Note the manifold pressure reading.
- The manifold pressure correction will be the difference between the two. For example if you manifold pressure is reading 1 inch more than the Kolsman window, actual manifold pressure is 1” less than the reading on your MP instrument.

For data, when in WOT cruise record:
- Manifold pressure
- Barometric pressure for your area
- Altitude
- Outside air temperature

Many online calculators that take barometric pressure, altitude and temperature to calculate actual atmospheric pressure. Here is one: https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/air-pressure-at-altitude. Correct

I suggest a few runs at various altitudes and average out the data. The desired data is your corrected MP over atmospheric pressure.

Carl
 
Hi Bob,
Our filter canisters and intakes are all pretty much direct replacements for the shorter Bower intake that uses the RU-2510 filter.
If you have the longer Bower filter that used the longer RU-2520, any of our ram-air intakes could replace it, but the length won't be the same, so you may have to modify your inlet scoop attachment to the canister.

Also, you mentioned an elbow....do you have a vertical induction sump with an elbow to attach your fuel servo? If so, I don't know if there is room in the cowl for our ram-air intakes, but if the Bower canister fit in there, ours should.
Thanks Steve. I'll keep this in mind. What I would really like to find is an /RU2520 to have for backup...
 
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