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AntiSplat mains bearing preload

I'm anxious to hear the reply as I just had this done. I was under the impression that we just followed Van's instructions when putting the wheel back on. On the RV-14 mains Van's states to,

"Rotate each Main Wheel and Tire Assembly while hand-tightening the corresponding axle nut until there is no side play in the wheel and the wheel rotates with little or no friction."
 
Reflex said:
I'm anxious to hear the reply as I just had this done. I was under the impression that we just followed Van's instructions when putting the wheel back on. On the RV-14 mains Van's states to,

"Rotate each Main Wheel and Tire Assembly while hand-tightening the corresponding axle nut until there is no side play in the wheel and the wheel rotates with little or no friction."
Click to expand...

thought he used sealed bearings. These are usually fully tightened, unlike the tapered roller bearings in the kit that are not

Suggest getting alans input, as I believe following the kit instructions is likely incorrect for his bearings.
 
Call out to Alan. Will post what he says.

Yes, they are sealed bearings like on the nose wheel. We both have been using the nose wheel bearings for years and are very happy with them. This is my first experience with the main bearing mod.
 
Preliad

They are not tapered bearings so vans instructions for preload will not work. Post what Allan says but it will likely be “snug”…
 
From the man himself:

Tighten the nut up about as tight as you can get it, by hand (without a wrench!), and back off to the next flat to get the cotter key in.
 
Sealed and non-tapered, so they have a precision length spacer trapped between the inner races?
 
rocketman1988 said:
yes

Yes, there is a machined spacer in the middle.
Click to expand...
I didn't see a spacer in between the two bearings on the main gear for my -7. They were done about 3-4 months ago. Looked up the bearing number (Spinco CSA 206-20) and see it has some sort of a locking collar but actually looks like a flange is resting on the surface of the original wheel halves that they machine to fit the bearing. A very good idea but I certainly don't see a spacer inside. There are certainly two spacers that ride on the axle on the outside of the wheel, but not the inside so I can only assume it is the strength of the wheels themselves that hold the bearings in position. I'm trying to figure out how much pre-load I can put on the big axle nut so that the brake flange bolt can be snugged up to prevent the brakes/wheel fairing from wiggling back and forth. Recommendations?
 
mr.sun said:
I didn't see a spacer in between the two bearings on the main gear for my -7. They were done about 3-4 months ago. Looked up the bearing number (Spinco CSA 206-20) and see it has some sort of a locking collar but actually looks like a flange is resting on the surface of the original wheel halves that they machine to fit the bearing. A very good idea but I certainly don't see a spacer inside. There are certainly two spacers that ride on the axle on the outside of the wheel, but not the inside so I can only assume it is the strength of the wheels themselves that hold the bearings in position. I'm trying to figure out how much pre-load I can put on the big axle nut so that the brake flange bolt can be snugged up to prevent the brakes/wheel fairing from wiggling back and forth. Recommendations?
Click to expand...
To clarify, the nose wheel mod has the spacer. The mains do not have a spacer and instead, the bearings are stopped by a .030" step in the bore according to anti splat.

There should be zero preload on the ball bearings per anti-splat. I actually ordered some 1.5" shims from McMaster to take up any slop. They worked great.
 
ASA told me 25 ft lbs on the nose wheel bolt.
For the mains, snug them up, then back off to fit cotter pin. (As mentioned above).
Cheers
Stephen
 
Treekiwi said:
ASA told me 25 ft lbs on the nose wheel bolt.
For the mains, snug them up, then back off to fit cotter pin. (As mentioned above).
Cheers
Stephen
Click to expand...
Yes, on the mains, one cotter pin went in perfectly and the other would have allowed a bit of slop therefore I added the McMaster shim.
 
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