I used the original spring. I bent the raw end inward to be sure it would not ever touch the silicone. If you twist the spring in the direction to reduce its diameter while installing it goes much easier. I did not use any safety wire on any of the clamps.
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5 year rubber alternatives
- Thread starter seagull
- Start date
I used the original spring. I bent the raw end inward to be sure it would not ever touch the silicone. If you twist the spring in the direction to reduce its diameter while installing it goes much easier. I did not use any safety wire on any of the clamps.
I reused my spring four years ago. No issues to date. If you pour detergent into the hose as a lubricant it makes the spring go in easier. Just give it a good flush before installing the hose.
Mini Dishwasher! Cool! kidding.
Tom
Tom
The spring goes in easier if you soak the hose is hot water to expand it slightly. Lubricated the spring with anti-freeze coolant. I used new rubber hose supplied in Van’s rubber replacement kit. They are Gates and also available at NAPA stores. I don’t know if the hot water trick will work with the silicon hoses.
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Piper J3
Well Known Member
I finished installing the new Silicone High Performance Heater Hoses today. I did not use a molded elbow hose for the top of the #3 cylinder. Instead, I added the Goodyear E-Z Coil to keep the top hose a nice smooth radius. The external coil prevents hose collapse…
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rtlongdon
Well Known Member
Preparing for coolant hose replacement...
I'm collecting parts (thanks to all of you and your willingness to share info!) to change out the cooling system hoses on my -12. The plan is to use silicone as many have detailed here.
I didn't have the benefit of building my airplane so I've never been through the process.
Can anyone outline anything unique to the process that may not be obvious or takes a bit of effort but makes the job generally easier? ie- things you wish you had known ahead of time or didn't see coming. Stuff you removed and didn't really need to?
For example, is there a need to loosen and/or remove the intake manifolds to get at the clamps for the topside hoses?
Thanks!
I'm collecting parts (thanks to all of you and your willingness to share info!) to change out the cooling system hoses on my -12. The plan is to use silicone as many have detailed here.
I didn't have the benefit of building my airplane so I've never been through the process.
Can anyone outline anything unique to the process that may not be obvious or takes a bit of effort but makes the job generally easier? ie- things you wish you had known ahead of time or didn't see coming. Stuff you removed and didn't really need to?
For example, is there a need to loosen and/or remove the intake manifolds to get at the clamps for the topside hoses?
Thanks!
rtlongdon
Well Known Member
Mine does have the fiberglass shroud, this is a new one on me as far as removing it. Would you be kind enough to elaborate the reason for sending it walking or maybe point me at more info. I'm guessing Van's put it there for a reason, but I'm new to the -12 and Rotaxes.
Thanks for the reply!
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Mine still has the shroud. I didn't bother to remove it because it was too much work. As I understand it, Vans designed the shroud to replace Rotax's own very expensive one, but eventually found by experience that it wasn't really needed in the 12, so it was deleted from the later kits.
Gagarin737
Well Known Member
Anyone already using the silicone reinforced hoses instead of using the springs? Available in 1"
I know this thread is old, but I'm wondering how the silicone hose replacements have held up. If Seagull and PiperJ3 wouldn't mind chiming in. I already bought rubber hoses from Rotax, but now that I have the oil and fuel hoses in process, I may just go with silicone for the coolant hose if it's worth not having to worry again in 5 years. Any problems, issues, leaks, problems with clamps, etc? I know one bought hoses from HPS and another from Amazon. How have they worked out? Thanks.
I have the same hoses on that I posted about. I put the silicone ones on at 540hrs in October 2020. The engine is now 1857hrs with no hose problems.
Piper J3
Well Known Member
I have 400 hours since installing silicone hoses in April 2021. Original clamps were reused for small hose and Constant Torque Hose Clamp w/ Belleville Washers on larger hose. Also, use Goodyear E-Z Coil to keep the top hose a nice smooth radius at Cyl #3. See post #55 above and photo attached...
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Outstanding! Thanks so much for the replies.
I like your idea. Removing the short connecting hose is a PAIN, and squeezing the hose with a clamp is easy enough but I’d rather not do that if I can avoid it. So the valve could be an answer assuming there are no seals that might shed small bits of material directly into the carbs.
Please share what you find works.
Cheers,
Dave
The valve would have to be able to handle the heat. I would like a small "ball valve" type which when closed, the handle would be up so you wouldn't be able to close the top cowl unless it was stowed and safety in the open position. The tube costs about $90, I'm going to purchase one and play around with it...
When I bought my RV12 the 5 year hose replacement was not done, when I did it, it was 10 years old. When I removed the hoses they looked in pretty good condition however there wasn't quite 400 hours on it...I'm currently helping a friend do his on a 914 which has 10 years on the hoses and about 600 hours and they seem to be in good condition as well, not hard or dried out. IMHO I'm more concerned with the oil and fuel system hoses. What are your findings regarding the coolant hoses?
