I looked at the spec sheet of the Tyco W31- series switch/breakers.
It's not clear if the nut against the plastic housing is required.
If not tightened the housing flops around a bit.
I want to mount some of these so that the cylinder is flush with the nut on the instrument panel (visible, user side). Would that require three nuts?
Most of the ten used W31's I bought here only came with one nut.
Anyone have a good source for the 55-001B and/or 55-010B (curled) nuts?
Before posting this, I searched here For W31. They appear prone to failure. Myself, I've had a 10 amp W31 fail open in my RV-3B. Now I'm beginning to wonder if I really should be using these for critical engine/pump controls in an all-electric airplane. I chose them for simplicity, but now I'm worried about reliability. Most things (pumps, ignition coils, injectors and engine controller are redundant -- doubled) but I'm not happy with the idea that switch/breakers are weak links. (I do want some of the circuits resetable in flight.)
Finn
It's not clear if the nut against the plastic housing is required.
If not tightened the housing flops around a bit.
I want to mount some of these so that the cylinder is flush with the nut on the instrument panel (visible, user side). Would that require three nuts?
Most of the ten used W31's I bought here only came with one nut.
Anyone have a good source for the 55-001B and/or 55-010B (curled) nuts?
Before posting this, I searched here For W31. They appear prone to failure. Myself, I've had a 10 amp W31 fail open in my RV-3B. Now I'm beginning to wonder if I really should be using these for critical engine/pump controls in an all-electric airplane. I chose them for simplicity, but now I'm worried about reliability. Most things (pumps, ignition coils, injectors and engine controller are redundant -- doubled) but I'm not happy with the idea that switch/breakers are weak links. (I do want some of the circuits resetable in flight.)
Finn
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