Basic question,
Do the prepunched holes in the RV 12 kit need to be deburred if they are not enlarged?
Kevin
Do the prepunched holes in the RV 12 kit need to be deburred if they are not enlarged?
Kevin
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Drburring
- Thread starter Lititzflyer
- Start date
Thanks Alex, I have been deburring everything thus far, was hoping to save a little time, will keep deburring...
vernon smith
Well Known Member
These save lots and lots of time. If you read the instructions they say 800 RPM max, ignore this and you will tear up an eighty buck tool in short order.
https://cogsdill.com/product/burraway/
https://cogsdill.com/product/burraway/
Don't overdo it
The reality is that it doesn't take a whole to lot debur a rivet hole; a quick wipe with a gloved finger or scotch-brite will do the job in most cases, especially the pre-punched holes. For the edges, here again, a fine grit scotch-brite pad does a very good job, or a simply a run or two with a rapid deburr tool like this does well: http://www.industrialboys.com/columnar.aspx?category_site=DTAP&cat_id=5644&prod_id=63659&referer=https%3A//www.google.com/&compidcookieset&sessioncookieset
For holes drilled in heavier material, one twist of a properly sized counter sink does a great job.
I do use a deburr wheel on a bench grinder for those parts that I cut myself, or ones that are separated, in order to clean up the larger spikes, but my opinion is that you can really go overboard on deburring and exceed the need, which is simply to remove any burrs and have a smooth edge.
The reality is that it doesn't take a whole to lot debur a rivet hole; a quick wipe with a gloved finger or scotch-brite will do the job in most cases, especially the pre-punched holes. For the edges, here again, a fine grit scotch-brite pad does a very good job, or a simply a run or two with a rapid deburr tool like this does well: http://www.industrialboys.com/columnar.aspx?category_site=DTAP&cat_id=5644&prod_id=63659&referer=https%3A//www.google.com/&compidcookieset&sessioncookieset
For holes drilled in heavier material, one twist of a properly sized counter sink does a great job.
I do use a deburr wheel on a bench grinder for those parts that I cut myself, or ones that are separated, in order to clean up the larger spikes, but my opinion is that you can really go overboard on deburring and exceed the need, which is simply to remove any burrs and have a smooth edge.
The more complex answer is "only if it seems necessary"
The Skins on the RV-12 are thin (only .020" thick) so a newbee builder over deburring would be making things worse than if they did no deburring at all.
There can occasionally be variation in hole quality depending on sharpness of punching tool, etc., so parts should be inspected, but if holes in a skin don't have enough bur to catch a finger nail on, it can be used as is.
The Skins on the RV-12 are thin (only .020" thick) so a newbee builder over deburring would be making things worse than if they did no deburring at all.
There can occasionally be variation in hole quality depending on sharpness of punching tool, etc., so parts should be inspected, but if holes in a skin don't have enough bur to catch a finger nail on, it can be used as is.
I'm pretty sure that Synergy doesn't debur the pre-punched holes in the skins.
