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Who engineered this go%#~?darn gascolator

H

Harvey rv12

Well Known Member
I thought cleaning the screen on my RV-12 gascolator would be easy, this is darn near impossible. It couldn't have been made more difficult. How do I get a screwdriver up in there to get the hidden straight slot screw ?. Or do I have to disconnect the fuel line and try to get the 3/8 head bolts out and take the whole darn thing off.
Anyone have any tricks or tips to help get this thing off.

Thank
Tom O.
 
A long flat screwdriver is all that's needed. Clip the safety wire and remove the screws. Tip to get the bowl off, hold the sump drain open to let air inside as you pull the bowl down.

The real hard part is getting it all back together!! The trick is to back the rear screws out a half of turn so you can get the safety wire on. Then tighten the screws and then run the safety wire to the front screws.

It's a little tight in there but with some patience and a few tricks, you'll get it. Good luck.
 
Hi Tom,

Some of us with early planes had to do a mod to get to that screw. Your plane, bought flying, may need this done. Vans issued this update drawing for making a hole in the nose gear bracket.
i-pWgz5qW-L.jpg


It still doesn't make the screen removal really easy but you will get the hang of it, and its not too bad a job. Do a search on the gascolator to find other tips. Have fun!

Then, if I remember correctly, the nose gear came with the hole already drilled, except it was on the wrong side and you still had to make the hole on the correct side!

I have not looked at any of the recent kits but this has probably been fixed.
 
Last edited:
Tony_T said:
Hi Tom,

Some of us with early planes had to do a mod to get to that screw. Your plane, bought flying, may need this done. Vans issued this update drawing for making a hole in the nose gear bracket.
i-pWgz5qW-L.jpg


It still doesn't make the screen removal really easy but you will get the hang of it, and its not too bad a job. Do a search on the gascolator to find other tips. Have fun!

Then, if I remember correctly, the nose gear came with the hole already drilled, except it was on the wrong side and you still had to make the hole on the correct side!

I have not looked at any of the recent kits but this has probably been fixed.
Click to expand...

Yup, and keep in mind these screws do not need to torqued super tight (nor should the be, they thread into aluminum threads).
The screws simply hold on the retaining ring.... which in turn holds on the cup.

The screws get safety wired so they are not coming out.
 
Somebody not long ago made a suggestion that I found simple and very helpful. Go to the hardware store and buy a few parts in the plumbing section to make a T handle that will screw into the bottom of the bowl where the quickdrain goes. The extra leverage makes it quite easy to get the bowl off.
 
Like Scott said, the screws do not need to be very tight because the seal is between the "O" ring and cylinder wall of the gascolator. Even if the screws were one full turn loose, the gascolator would not leak, not that I am suggesting that. :D
Someone should invent some type of easily removable spring clip to hold the bowl on instead of screws.
 
I replaced my drain valve with one that can lock open to prevent drawing a vacuum that inhibits bowl removal. Scott cautioned against this because it could lock open. Bad news: it can and did yesterday. Good news fuel pouring ou of it made it easy to figure out. I guess it's a trade ft between maintenance and operation. I'll keep the lock open design and be aware of it on preflight.
 
success

I got it. gascolator off, fine screen inspected(was clear), tank drained, inlet screen in tank inspected(it was clear), refueled and no leaks!.
I put silicone grease Dow 4 on the gascolator o-ring, is that the right stuff?. I made up the T-handle from 1/8 pipe, that worked like a champ to get the bowl off. I found the 3/8" hole drilled in the appropriate spot to access the hidden screw against the firewall.
next year will be a piece of cake, and really admire all you that built your own planes!

thanks for the tips & tricks!!
 
Harvey rv12 said:
success

I got it. gascolator off, fine screen inspected(was clear), tank drained, inlet screen in tank inspected(it was clear), refueled and no leaks!.
I put silicone grease Dow 4 on the gascolator o-ring, is that the right stuff?. I made up the T-handle from 1/8 pipe, that worked like a champ to get the bowl off. I found the 3/8" hole drilled in the appropriate spot to access the hidden screw against the firewall.
next year will be a piece of cake, and really admire all you that built your own planes!

thanks for the tips & tricks!!
Click to expand...
How do you get the fine screen out of the gascolator?
 
I use a dental tool, metal handle with a slim sharp point on the end. I suppose you could use something else similar. If you’re careful, you can get a the pick at an edge of it and then you’ll work your way around it and bring it out.
 
Harvey rv12 said:
success

I got it. gascolator off, fine screen inspected(was clear), tank drained, inlet screen in tank inspected(it was clear), refueled and no leaks!.
I put silicone grease Dow 4 on the gascolator o-ring, is that the right stuff?. I made up the T-handle from 1/8 pipe, that worked like a champ to get the bowl off. I found the 3/8" hole drilled in the appropriate spot to access the hidden screw against the firewall.
next year will be a piece of cake, and really admire all you that built your own planes!

thanks for the tips & tricks!!
Click to expand...
Great 👍 I sometimes prefer to see junk in there to justify the work
 
I copied someone else’s post and used socket head screws with nord lock washers. They are used on our prop’s ,should for sure hold that difficult to remove bowel even when the screws are removed!.
 
I’m completing the final items and taking care of all the SB’s when I saw posts above. In prep for future Gascolator Service, thought I would look at what you all were discussing. The back port side screw accessible through the hole in landing gear leg is blocked from aligning with the female threads by another screw in the firewall. See pictures for clarity.

The Allen heads mentioned above probably have a smaller head thereby allowing easier start of the screw in the thread.

Thanks all for info above.

-Rich. (First flight this year)
IMG_5302.jpegIMG_5303.jpeg
 
The first time I had to checked mine I had great difficulty removing the bowl. Even with letting air in, the bowl was steadfast. So, for next time, I used EZ-Turn fuel proof grease on the O ring. Did not help. Someone then suggested using Krytox GPL205 instead. That greatly improved bowl removal.
But yeah, those slotted screws are awkward. Drilled Allen screws would be better.
 
It can be a little messy, what I have done to drop the bowl once the screws are out is open the drain to get all the fuel out then put a rubber tipped air nozzle on the air compressor and insert air to the open drain hole, give a quick pulse with low pressure, (use pressure regulator @ 5psi). Replace the screws with socket head cap screws, much easier to use a long allen wrench to attach the bowl. Use nordlock washers on all 4 screws. Drill the front two screws for safety wire.
 
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