Good Day, Bad Day......

[paul330]

Yesterday, I joined (at least temporarily) the front and mid fuselage assemblies - looked great. Bad news? Whilst trying to fit the other parts, I realised I had fitted the rear seat and baggage outer ribs with the joggle OUTSIDE the vertical spar flanges rather than inside

Looking back on the general arrangement drawings, it is easy to see but not made clear in the step-by-step. My fault though and should only take 2 or 3 hours to drill out and re-rivet but it spoilt a good day!

Heads up for anyone getting to this bit......

[PJSeipel]

Don't feel bad. I did the exact same thing. And didn't notice it for weeks. It wasn't too bad to get everything back apart and put together correctly.

PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032

[philb]

Also,

Make sure the triangular portion of the tailcone left aft fuse skin goes between the triangluar portion of the mid fuse skin and the baggage door rib spacer - it's easy to inadvertently slip it too far inboard - between the spacer and the baggage door rib - you won't notice it until the tail is completely riveted on, and there's a bit of a gap along the baggage door!!

Phil
KSLC
Slow build fuselage - systems work

[philb]

ok, so .. in re-reading your post - you did this to the forward-mid fuse sections. I guess I'll have to fess up to "me too" on this as well - didn't notice it until putting on the side skins and the gap was obvious.

Getting real good at drilling out rivets...

Phil
KSLC
Slow build fuselage - systems work

[paul330]

Yeah, doesn't look like too bad a job. The -4 rivets through the spar may be a bit tricky but if I drill out the skin/rib flange -3s first I should be able to "ease" the ribs to get access.

I was guessing I wasn't the only one! Just seemed to sit naturally where it was

[paul330]

Well, it took me 3 hours to drill out the offending parts but it's done with no damage and clecoed back in the right place. Annoying but no more......

However, a couple of extra questions have been thrown up as I have examined the parts:

- page 26-5 step 6 states to dimple most of the holes in the F-1018 outboard ribs. It looks as if the webs of the F-1015A ribs should also be dimpled but I cannot find any mention of it. I see no reason to wait until after match drilling the side skin as dimpling then would be very difficult. Any pointers?

- there is also a #30 hole in the F-1004K Side Plate that looks like it should be match drilled through the F-1004C Bulkhead but page 28-9 step 2 states only to drill the #40 holes.

It's been a frustrating couple of days and I want to get it right this time

[RV9A Bill]

another builder told me early on that you only put things together so you can take them apart. True so far.
RV9A Bill

[aturner]

Paul, I must have spent at least two hours last night reading plans and browsing the matronics archives trying to figure out the story with dimpling of the F-1015a ribs. I ended up final drilling and dimpling all #40 holes in the web of the 1015a ribs except for the two forward rows that lay under the 1004K sideplate. I also dimpled the vertical intercostal under the 1015a. The manual completely overlooks these steps, and it is hard to visualize it all at this point, so I'm just crossing my fingers and hoping I got it right.

[paul330]

Thanks Andy. I am going to drill and dimple in the same way as the F1018. Page 29-17 shows that they have to be done at some time and leaving till after it's riveted in place means you would have to use a pop rivet dimpler and probably have to grind down the die to fit against the flange. As for the intercostal, those holes can be countersunk through the 2 layers.

Right - build on!

[Wayne Gillispie]

after I made the same mistake. I wish we had one big list put together. I have Tim's and several other "gotcha" sheets but still doesn't cover everything does it. If you have any others besides Tim's let me know.