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  #1  
Old 09-04-2008, 12:00 PM
steve wyman steve wyman is offline
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 241
Default Flaperon actuation brackets

A couple of questions again for the guys who have completed their wings. On page 18-04, it calls for 8 AN960-10 washers between the actuation arms to set their separation distance. This produces a gap between them of 1/2 inch. Before I drill the A-1207-L bracket, is this spacing correct, since the bearing on the W-1212 hinge bracket is only a little over .250" thick? Also, which rivets did you use on the A-1206 pivot brackets- I don't see the rivets in the callout. Thanks Steve
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  #2  
Old 09-05-2008, 08:39 AM
mrt890 mrt890 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Friday Harbor, Wa
Posts: 300
Default Flaperon brackets

Steve

I think you have to trust the plans for the actuating bracket spacing. Some sort of spacers are needed on both sides of the bearing in order to capture the inner race. 1206 Pivot brackets call for LP4-3 rivets, it's on pg 18-05.

MRT890
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2008, 10:26 AM
steve wyman steve wyman is offline
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 241
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Thanks- I talked to the tech reps at VANS this morning, and they said the 1/2 inch spacing was, in fact, correct and that there would be spacer washers on each side of the W-1212 hinge bracket bearing. The washers allow for some variation between the wing hinge brackets. Steve
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  #4  
Old 01-08-2009, 07:07 AM
morsesc morsesc is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 62
Default

Just finished the actuation brackets. For those of you who have this to do, my spacing was also 1/2 inch. Also, consider the orientation of the squeezed rivets to this part and the spar. The manufactured head may interfere with the bend in the part and make squeezing difficult. Turning the rivet around helped me solve this issue.
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2009, 10:17 AM
okiejohn okiejohn is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 74
Default flaperon

I second that about the manufactured head. It would not seat, due to the inner radius of the A-1207 angle. Putting the manufactured head on the spar, I ground off the side of one of my flat squeezer dies to set it since the rivet was too close to the vertical angle.

Also, I would definitely drill the A-909 with a #40 drill bit first, at slow speed with some lube. Also, when you cleco the skin to the spar, maybe use a level sideways on the spar to ensure the skin is not twisted a bit around the A-909. On final assembly, I clamped the A-1207 to a block and rested the A-909 skin on a towel so the trailing edge was vertical. Would that prevent warping?

I wish there was a sticky for Joe Gore's and Jim Cone's, etc tips, maybe in posts by chapter.
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2009, 10:54 AM
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MartySantic MartySantic is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 1,390
Default

I good set of hints for wing assembly can be found in this thread,

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=34767

I also read each of the blogs, as I proceeded and found the hints invaluable.
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  #7  
Old 09-09-2010, 01:59 PM
Topturn Topturn is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Manchester - England
Posts: 78
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Just about to start on the flaperons and wonder if you can offer any advice on the best way to rivet the solid bracket rivets? I've 'borrowed' a picture from Tony's site (hope that's OK) http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-...56545565_hxzE5

I have the standard Avery RV-12 tool kit with the squeezers in but don't what to grind one down so all advice welcome and if you can suggest what size squeezer I might need to buy to grind down that would be great.

Many thanks
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  #8  
Old 09-09-2010, 09:13 PM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 1,369
Default Confession...

I wimped out and used a pneumatic squeezer for these rivets. I did not grind the dies, but you can see they left a mark on the part. As I recall, I had to redo 1 or 2 of the rivets to make them look decent .

I am pretty sure BigJohn set all his AD470 rivets with the Avery hand squeezer and he is older and skinnier than me. You might get some help from his Kitlog. You have to make the squeeze in two or more steps with the hand squeezer to keep the tool working where leverage is maximum. With the pneumatic, you just pull the trigger -- kapow. Lots of fun, tho' probably not worth the expense for an RV-12.

Tony
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  #9  
Old 09-10-2010, 02:07 AM
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Gagarin737 Gagarin737 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 663
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I also used the Avery hand squeezer and I hadn't any problems with it. I didn't grind the dies.



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  #10  
Old 09-10-2010, 09:16 AM
BigJohn BigJohn is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Gloversville, NY
Posts: 1,587
Default

I squeezed these babies with some help from my wife to hold the parts still. I had previously ground off one of the dies. See: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...og=79032&row=4 Note that I still scratched up the sides of the part next to the rivets - almost unavoidable when they are that close. Just sand off the rough edges and hit with a shot of primer. Hope this helps.

PS - Don't know if Tony is right about me being skinnier! He's pretty wiry.
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