Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Wheel grease seal rings
- Thread starter Taltruda
- Start date
koupster
Well Known Member
Tom,
If you're ready to give up the felts and install modern grease seals, let me know and I'll look up the part #.
Instead of repacking the bearings every year and cleaning and re-lubing the felts, I just check the bearing play. Will re-grease coincident with tire flips or changes.
If you're ready to give up the felts and install modern grease seals, let me know and I'll look up the part #.
Instead of repacking the bearings every year and cleaning and re-lubing the felts, I just check the bearing play. Will re-grease coincident with tire flips or changes.
flyinmonque
Well Known Member
part number?
How about putting it here for anyone looking for it?
Thanks
How about putting it here for anyone looking for it?
Thanks
Flyhud
Well Known Member
McFarlane sells these parts considerably cheaper.
https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/MC153-00800/
https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/MC153-00800/
Absolutely interested! Although my felts seem to work great, my grease is immaculately clean..
Edit: I think I found the ones you are referring to.. 154-03000. Both spruce has them, but Mcfarlane also has them.. and cheaper, but still overpriced at $57 each! There’s probably a Napa part number for two bucks out there…
Last edited:
koupster
Well Known Member
Yes, it's an auto part. Will find the part # and post it.
Stevea
Well Known Member
Cleveland 154-03000 automotive part?
I agree it "looks" like an automotive type bearing seal.....but I couldn't find it in any seal manufacturer catalog. The Cleveland parts seem to be thinner than most auto seals.
Ended up buying the pricey new seals anyway, just because it seemed using felt and grease to seal a wheel bearing was not the best design for keeping the grit out of the wheel bearings.
I agree it "looks" like an automotive type bearing seal.....but I couldn't find it in any seal manufacturer catalog. The Cleveland parts seem to be thinner than most auto seals.
Ended up buying the pricey new seals anyway, just because it seemed using felt and grease to seal a wheel bearing was not the best design for keeping the grit out of the wheel bearings.
Roadjunkie1
Well Known Member
Bearing felt seals and plates....
So you went with the McFarlane parts? I was wondering what happened to your original seals and holding plates? They are not something that would wear out, I wouldn't think.
The felt, maybe. The sealing plates and snap rings? Curious minds want to know! Mine have 1200+ hours and still look pretty good..... The Cub lands in the dirt more than on pavement and I have never replaced any of that.....
So you went with the McFarlane parts? I was wondering what happened to your original seals and holding plates? They are not something that would wear out, I wouldn't think.
The felt, maybe. The sealing plates and snap rings? Curious minds want to know! Mine have 1200+ hours and still look pretty good..... The Cub lands in the dirt more than on pavement and I have never replaced any of that.....
koupster
Well Known Member
Tom and VAF friends,
Here's my post on this subject in 2019. Checked the link and it still works.
Seal dimensions are listed in the link:
"Just ordered four from RockAuto at $5.12 each and $2.99 for shipping via USPS.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/national,473237,,0 "
It's a spring loaded; multi-lip seal. Without modification, only one lip makes contact to seal. I thought that was sufficient since many cars used a one lip seal, and made no modifications other than installing the above seal.
Here's more from Rocketbob:
"I'm giving the 473237 seals a try on a RV-6 I'm working on. They press in perfectly and the dimensions are correct. However. The spacers are too short for the outer lip of the seal to properly contact the spacer. They will work as-is but slightly thicker spacers are recommended. Not a problem if you have a lathe to make new spacers. Longer spacers would require modifying the axle nut so the cotter key would fit in a different hole by slotting the appropriate hole.
Note the 473237 seals are much thicker than whats listed in the Cleveland SB, and do not require the snap ring. I believe the 473237 seals are superior since they are constructed with a spring on the inner lip."
Here's the link to the entire discussion:
https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=175495
Here's my post on this subject in 2019. Checked the link and it still works.
Seal dimensions are listed in the link:
"Just ordered four from RockAuto at $5.12 each and $2.99 for shipping via USPS.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/national,473237,,0 "
It's a spring loaded; multi-lip seal. Without modification, only one lip makes contact to seal. I thought that was sufficient since many cars used a one lip seal, and made no modifications other than installing the above seal.
Here's more from Rocketbob:
"I'm giving the 473237 seals a try on a RV-6 I'm working on. They press in perfectly and the dimensions are correct. However. The spacers are too short for the outer lip of the seal to properly contact the spacer. They will work as-is but slightly thicker spacers are recommended. Not a problem if you have a lathe to make new spacers. Longer spacers would require modifying the axle nut so the cotter key would fit in a different hole by slotting the appropriate hole.
Note the 473237 seals are much thicker than whats listed in the Cleveland SB, and do not require the snap ring. I believe the 473237 seals are superior since they are constructed with a spring on the inner lip."
Here's the link to the entire discussion:
https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=175495
Last edited:
Stevea
Well Known Member
why use molded seals vs felt?
Yes, I bought the McFarlane parts (which....if you drill down on their website is the same Parker Hannifin seal that Cleveland specs and Spruce sells.....just for less $).
The holding plates and snap rings were the original parts on my wheels (1100 hours). Only the felts were ever changed, mainly because the grease in the felt turned black over time, and there was always brake/runway grit stuck to the outside of the felt. I tried cleaning the grease/grit out with some solvent...it kind of worked, but the felt got a bit beat up in the process....so felts got changed.
Eventually, I decided the felt/grease combination was a bit of a micky mouse design for a bearing seal, and sprung for the molded seals from McFarlane. BTW, even with the gritty felt seals, the grease in the wheel bearings still looked almost the same color as the Aeroshell 22 grease cartridge it came out of....not black. (And, before someone takes issue with my opinion of the felt seals......yes, they do work OK. I just think a molded grease seal works better at keeping the grease in and the outside world junk out, short of using a sealed wheel bearing.) My flying is entirely on dry paved runways (no grass....well twice in 8 years actually).
So you went with the McFarlane parts? I was wondering what happened to your original seals and holding plates? They are not something that would wear out, I wouldn't think.
Yes, I bought the McFarlane parts (which....if you drill down on their website is the same Parker Hannifin seal that Cleveland specs and Spruce sells.....just for less $).
The holding plates and snap rings were the original parts on my wheels (1100 hours). Only the felts were ever changed, mainly because the grease in the felt turned black over time, and there was always brake/runway grit stuck to the outside of the felt. I tried cleaning the grease/grit out with some solvent...it kind of worked, but the felt got a bit beat up in the process....so felts got changed.
Eventually, I decided the felt/grease combination was a bit of a micky mouse design for a bearing seal, and sprung for the molded seals from McFarlane. BTW, even with the gritty felt seals, the grease in the wheel bearings still looked almost the same color as the Aeroshell 22 grease cartridge it came out of....not black. (And, before someone takes issue with my opinion of the felt seals......yes, they do work OK. I just think a molded grease seal works better at keeping the grease in and the outside world junk out, short of using a sealed wheel bearing.) My flying is entirely on dry paved runways (no grass....well twice in 8 years actually).
PerfTech
Well Known Member
OR Problem solved forever.!!!
----You may wish to have a look see at our "Main Wheel Bearing Mod" and solve
the problems forever! No more packing those old-style bearings, No more leaking grease
on your brake rotors and wheels. No more ruining your brake pads (pads last twice as long
with no grease on them). No more glazed spots on rotors causing wheel shake. No more mess
when changing tires Etc. And best of all, our double sealed bearings will outlast your airplane.
Thanks, Guys, Allan-
----You may wish to have a look see at our "Main Wheel Bearing Mod" and solve
the problems forever! No more packing those old-style bearings, No more leaking grease
on your brake rotors and wheels. No more ruining your brake pads (pads last twice as long
with no grease on them). No more glazed spots on rotors causing wheel shake. No more mess
when changing tires Etc. And best of all, our double sealed bearings will outlast your airplane.
Thanks, Guys, Allan-
BillL
Well Known Member
Spacer spinning?
Steve, the felt seals spin the oil to the OD, then it flows under the "washer" and slings onto the wheel ID. Only the wax/clay remains and it gets hot, hard and black. I have a set of proper seals from Cr (formally Chicago Rawhide) from their catalogue based on specifications.
The only potential issue is the greater friction on the spacers causing them to rotate. If users could post their experience on this "failure mode" it would help us all.
Steve, the felt seals spin the oil to the OD, then it flows under the "washer" and slings onto the wheel ID. Only the wax/clay remains and it gets hot, hard and black. I have a set of proper seals from Cr (formally Chicago Rawhide) from their catalogue based on specifications.
The only potential issue is the greater friction on the spacers causing them to rotate. If users could post their experience on this "failure mode" it would help us all.
Last edited:
Amazon only had ONE and would not let me order 4. Rockauto has them and with shipping plus tax, they are less money than Amazon.
