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  #1  
Old 01-10-2015, 01:36 AM
SMO's Avatar
SMO SMO is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
Posts: 933
Default Tip: Cotter Pins - Am I the only one who didn't know this?

Nearly 50 hours on the Rocket, weather is lousy so a good time to do a full inspection. One of the things I found involved my rudder pedals. These run VERY close to the center tunnel. The bolt that pivots the bottom of the brake cylinder has to be installed with head toward the center tunnel and the castle nut and cotter pin inside the rudder pedal - where your foot could rub against it. During the inspection the cotter pin was found to be somewhat straightened out giving rise to the potential of it falling out. Today I was discussing this with the local AME (A&P in the USA) and he showed me a way to bend the cotter pin so my foot would not catch it. I thought this was a bit novel so I showed it to one of the other hangar rats, but it was nothing new to him.

Apparently this is standard practice in some circles. Maybe everyone knows this and I am just the last one to find out!

Anyway, in the picture below you can see how he locked the pin into the nut, and nothing is sticking out past the end of the bolt for my foot to catch.

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1987 RV-4 Sold
2003 Super Decathlon - Sold
F1 EVO Rocket, first flight May 31/14
First in line for the Sonex JSX-2T kit
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2015, 06:14 AM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 3,181
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This is "new to me" so THANKS!
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  #3  
Old 01-10-2015, 06:54 AM
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SmilingJack SmilingJack is offline
 
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Location: Hilton Head Island
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It is know as the "French Curl" or at least that was what I was taught long ago.
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RV-8 (SOLD)
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2015, 09:47 AM
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N395V N395V is offline
 
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Location: Mendon South Carolina
Posts: 1,391
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Check with F1 boss. There was an early service bulletin about special bolt and procedures for the rudder pedals.

From you post it sounds like you are getting close to having the problem that the service bulletin addresses.

My pedals hung up shortly after a landing. 10 seconds sooner and it probably would have destroyed the plane.
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Last edited by N395V : 01-10-2015 at 09:59 AM.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2015, 09:55 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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When I had my airworthiness inspection the FAA guy showed me this trick.
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

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  #6  
Old 01-10-2015, 09:58 AM
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N395V N395V is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Mendon South Carolina
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From "DocThrocks" website

rudderpedalsinstalled3.jpg



**Service Bulletin: 8/05 a service bulletin was issued by TR to ensure adequate clearance between the outside lower brake pedal to rudder pedal attach bolt. It seems there have been problems with the bolt head hanging up on the firewall and disallowing full travel of the pedals. This could be an extremely dangerous situation in the air, and especially on the ground. It is recommended that you have at least 1/4 inch clearance between the bolt head and the firewall. Some builders have simply ground the bolt head down or used a pan head bolt, as well as taking a ball peen hammer to the firewall footwell junction and knocked it back. It has also been recommended that prior to pedal assembly that the rudder pedal cross tubing (horizontal part) be cut from the upright thin hangar, and reduced 1/4 inch. Then you can insert a spacer and shift the outboard part of the mechanism away from the firewall footwell and gain adequate clearance. It has also been recommended that if you cut this part to shorten it, when you re-weld the part it's a good idea to slightly rotate the flat upright so that the horizontal cross tube of the left and right rudder pedals are parallel.

*** Update 12/07:
Although I thought just changing the screw on the rudder pedal that was hanging up on the footwell would solve the problem, it DID NOT. I was taxi tesing my Rocket and the right pedal was hanging up badly on the lip of the footwell. Malletizing it just wasn't going to happen. So instead, I got a nice long thick bolt and nut, and a deepwell socket. I used the socket/bolt combination as a jack screw. I blocked the inboard side of the footwell with some wood, and then drove the head of the bolt into the area of the stainless firewall where the hang up was and dented it out. Not a very sophisticated method, but screwing the bolt out of the socket and bending the footwell about 1/8 inch or so gave plety of clearance. The tendency for your legs at an outboard angle and the pedals swinging at an outboard angle will predispose you to hanging up on that brake pedal screw at absolutely the wrong time. Go ahead and bend out the lip of the firewall footwell adjacent to that screw. Thank me later!

I used a pan head screw (actually a bolt). There is NOT enough clearance as is, even with the pan head. You can see in the pic that there is not much clearance. If you assemble the rudder and brake pedal assemblies trying to bias everything inboard, you should be able to get at least the amount of clearance shown. Mark recommends perhaps twice this much, which would mean cutting and welding the pedal and perhaps reshaping the brake pedal. If that bolt hangs up, you can get in some serious trouble! I went ahead and dented out the stainless firewall adjacent to the pan head.


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  #7  
Old 01-10-2015, 10:26 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default I like it!

I did not know either, but I like the way it is contained!

Something new learned today, something useful.

Thanks!
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RV-7
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2015, 11:01 AM
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SMO SMO is offline
 
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Location: Salmon Arm, BC
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Milt, thanks for posting that potential issue. The nut where I was catching my foot on the cotter pin is the one in the picture below. If the cotter pin fell out and the nut backed off, then the bolt could hang up on the side of the tunnel. If the bolt disengaged from the pedal then I would lose that brake.

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1987 RV-4 Sold
2003 Super Decathlon - Sold
F1 EVO Rocket, first flight May 31/14
First in line for the Sonex JSX-2T kit
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2015, 03:10 PM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,591
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This was a problem with the RV4 and is listed here in the SBs

http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb96-12-1.pdf

I use the .040 safety wire option and it has served well on all my aircraft.
Also there is a castlelated locknut available that I use in locations like this and at the rudder horns/ rudder cable location as an added level of security.
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CPL & IFR rated
EVO F1 Rocket 1000 hours,
2010 SARL Rocket 100 race, average speed of 238.6 knots/274.6mph
RV4, RV7, RV10, two HRIIs and five F1 Rockets
RV14 Tail dragger

Fairlea Field
St.Thomas, Ontario Canada, CYQS
fairleafield@gmail.com
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  #10  
Old 01-12-2015, 08:11 AM
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daddyman daddyman is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 326
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The loss of the cotter pin is not only a possibility, but real.
I noticed my flying shoes had a peculiar wear on the outside of the sole. During the night BEFORE a flight it came to me in my sleep.
Sure enough the cotter pin had come out, the nut unscrewed, and the bolt was simply dangling.
I now have turned the bolt facing out, and include it in my pre-flight.
No harm/no foul.

Daddyman
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