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  #1  
Old 10-20-2014, 10:33 PM
jdeas's Avatar
jdeas jdeas is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 634
Default Oil leak finally found but what can I do?

After chasing this problem for a few months I sealed the bottom of my rear baffle and can now see that I have an oil leak not in the accessory case but where the case bolts together top rear.
Glad to have finally found it but now I'm not sure if anything can be done short of splitting the case
When I found this I removed to last three case bolts and torqued them to ~110 inch/lbs and cleaned all the surfaces.
I know the torque is over the value from the rebuild manual but it seems that most mechanics are tightening these up to just over 100 inch/lbs in the post I have seen.

Here it is after an hour flight.. No discernible difference in the leak.






Is there anything else I can try? The leak is large enough to be a real issue.
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RV-7 N314SY (KWHP)
IO-360-B1B
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CANbus based trim/flaps and electrical
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  #2  
Old 10-20-2014, 11:21 PM
Mark Burns's Avatar
Mark Burns Mark Burns is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ruston, Louisiana
Posts: 879
Default Try this

I'd spray a little contact cleaner or brake cleaner on the joint line.
Not too much. You don't want to wash out any sealer you have left.

Then use loctite 290 self wicking. Just put some on the case split line and let it wick in for a few minutes. Wipe off excess.

This is done with case bolts tight.

It has worked for me on more than one occasion.
Try it and let us know how it worked.

Mark





Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeas View Post
After chasing this problem for a few months I sealed the bottom of my rear baffle and can now see that I have an oil leak not in the accessory case but where the case bolts together top rear.
Glad to have finally found it but now I'm not sure if anything can be done short of splitting the case
When I found this I removed to last three case bolts and torqued them to ~110 inch/lbs and cleaned all the surfaces.
I know the torque is over the value from the rebuild manual but it seems that most mechanics are tightening these up to just over 100 inch/lbs in the post I have seen.

Here it is after an hour flight.. No discernible difference in the leak.


Is there anything else I can try? The leak is large enough to be a real issue.
__________________
Mark Burns
Ruston, Louisiana
RV-7A N781CM 1,700+ hrs
FFI FL-24
A&P

Last edited by Mark Burns : 10-20-2014 at 11:30 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2014, 08:43 AM
wm708 wm708 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: houston pmt 2014
Posts: 53
Default

Did you check your blow by tube is not restricted at all. Just a thought.
Bill J
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  #4  
Old 10-24-2014, 12:09 AM
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AK4x4 AK4x4 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: PAWS (Wasilla, Alaska)
Posts: 140
Default Leak Fix

If you clean the seam with MEK, wire brush and clean again with Brakleen, then let dry and lay a bead of Scotchweld DP-190 along the seam it will stop the leak. You will also make work for whoever does the next overhaul..... good luck, Russ
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"Happiness may never be sensibly pursued as an end in itself, because happiness is the by-product of achievement." -- Northcote Parkinson (paraphrase)
Wasilla, Alaska
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  #5  
Old 10-24-2014, 07:03 AM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,591
Default

I had a similar leak along the top of the case. Bob Japundza suggested pro seal and it has worked for 500 hours. Clean area, sand off paint at seam and then lay a fillet over the joint. Let it cure before for a few days before starting engine.
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EVO F1 Rocket 1000 hours,
2010 SARL Rocket 100 race, average speed of 238.6 knots/274.6mph
RV4, RV7, RV10, two HRIIs and five F1 Rockets
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  #6  
Old 10-24-2014, 08:04 AM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
been here awhile
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,462
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Martin View Post
I had a similar leak along the top of the case. Bob Japundza suggested pro seal and it has worked for 500 hours. Clean area, sand off paint at seam and then lay a fillet over the joint. Let it cure before for a few days before starting engine.
Another vote for proseal, I used it to stop a case leak on a VW-based aviation engine.
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  #7  
Old 10-24-2014, 08:23 AM
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jdeas jdeas is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 634
Default First attempt was pretty good

From Mark's suggestion and the Loctite green instructions for filling voids, Preheated the engine, cleaned the case split with acetone then brake cleaner.
Applied a light bead of 290 while still warm then let sit for over a day.
I did a test flight yesterday and the leak has been reduced to maybe 10-20% of what it was. I have now re-cleaned that area and re-applied more 290 to about 1" of the gasket area.
When it's time to rebuild I might wish I had used proseal instead of 290 but I have already started down this path and it is working!
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----------------------
RV-7 N314SY (KWHP)
IO-360-B1B
A&P


CANbus based trim/flaps and electrical
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2014, 10:08 AM
edbooth edbooth is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Trenton, SC
Posts: 120
Default Case oil leak

Clean off seam with MEK, pull a vacuum on the case through the oil filler tube with a vacuum cleaner and run a bead of super glue along the seam....has worked for me in the past.
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2014, 02:26 PM
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jdeas jdeas is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 634
Default Vacuum would probably help any of these solutions

Quote:
Originally Posted by edbooth View Post
Clean off seam with MEK, pull a vacuum on the case through the oil filler tube with a vacuum cleaner and run a bead of super glue along the seam....has worked for me in the past.
I assume you would block or restrict the crankcase vent while doing this
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----------------------
RV-7 N314SY (KWHP)
IO-360-B1B
A&P


CANbus based trim/flaps and electrical
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2014, 05:29 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,639
Default Sealant

Plus one for proseal.
I think the revised torque for the 1/4' perimeter bolts is 96#. but I can't find the reference.
I don't like attaching baffle brackets to crankcase perimeter bolts. I run diagonal braces from the rear cylinder rocker bolts and/or use the accessory case bolts as on many Pipers, Cherokee, etc.
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