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Hangar Construction

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Does anyone have an idea what it would cost to have a 40x40 Morton type building hangar constructed? Anyone have any experiences to share? Thanks in advance.
 
A friend of mine is having one put up, it's more along the lines of 50X40 with a 15 foot Wilson door. It's in the 65-70 range. Type of door makes a big difference, his will be bi-fold with remote.

Rat
 
When I built both of my hangars, I got a quote from Morton. Morton wanted almost 3 times what I ended up paying for my all steel hangars.
My last hangar is a 45'X50'. It cost me $12,400. I did the erection, and the cost didn't include the slab. But it was still a LOT more reasonable than Morton.
Mel...DAR
 
What's a Morton look like?

I've got a catalog from R and M but those are steel, alum siding hangars.

The cement pad is what is expensive, i assume about $3--5 a sq. ft.
 
I was quoted 60 X 60 X 14 with Bi-Fold turn key.
plus Land Lease
$ 56K.

Al Smith
RV 6 N 495AB
KEOS
 
Mel said:
When I built both of my hangars, I got a quote from Morton. Morton wanted almost 3 times what I ended up paying for my all steel hangars.
My last hangar is a 45'X50'. It cost me $12,400. I did the erection, and the cost didn't include the slab. But it was still a LOT more reasonable than Morton.
Mel...DAR

Mel -

From whom did you buy the building?

Thanks

John
 
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40? X 60? X 14?.... was: $19,360.00 ...... now: $12,480.00
50? X 60? X 16?.....was: $23,950.00 .......now: $15,453.00
50? X 100? X 16?...was: $35,750.00 .......now: $23,838.00
60? X 120? X 16?...was: $50,500.00 .......now: $31,926.00

Other sizes available at comparable savings.
 
There Are Also Other Options

You may want to consider another option. I moved into my airpark home last year and am now doing all the prep work for my future hanger.

I plan on building my own air conditioned hanger with ICF blocks and using steel paneled SIP's for the roof. The plus is 250mph R-50 walls and R-30 roof with minimal trussing. It also makes it easier to do a majority of the work myself. I only have to make my slab 4-6 inches since the walls sit on footings, saving concrete. Plus the ICF walls are the form for the slab. I will be using Nudura ICF and Structall snap-n-lock panels for the roof. The roof panels will be 4x24, span an unsupported distance of 25ft and easily installed by 3 people. Here is a rough cost breakdown on how my projected costs are today.
For 40x42x12 hanger with 3-12 pitch.
$5500 for ICF blocks
$1500 for steel rebar and concrete for said blocks
$4000 for footings and slab ($3000 concrete and supplies + $1000 hired finish work)
$8000 for roof
$7000 for hydro-swing door

This cost is less than my neighbors hanger plus slab, not to mention the $18,000 he paid for a crew to erect it.

Don't get me wrong, "turnkey" is great, but I tend to want the best for the least. Wait a minute, that's why I am building an RV! :)
 
My first hangar (1990) was from Tyler building systems. The second time around (2003) I went with Red Dot Buildings. Both buildings are essentially the same. The price included all steel including steel siding, insulation, roof vent system and one personel door. I used a Hi-Fold door (40'X12') complete with automatic latch system delivered for about $3500.
Hangar (45'X50') $12,400
Door (40'X12') 3,500
Slab 6,750
Mel...DAR
 
Watching Wade.....

I will be watching Wade's progress closely, and stealing every good idea he has in the process for when I am ready to build mine (at the same airpark...)! :D

Paul
 
Having just survived winds near 100 mph and hail last Friday night here in Gainesville, Texas, with no structural damage to my hangar, I am big on Boyd Buildings, Boyd, Texas. Don't be cheap when you build your hangar. I had three airplanes in the hangar without hull coverage, including my RV-8 and Marquart Charger Also, for those of you around North Texas, DO NOT make the hangar door face west if you can help it. If you do, make it double strong and use drop pins along the bottom of the door. In fact, use them anyway. My door faces south, and you should have seen it bouncing when the wind was blowing Friday night! One other thing, I had another airplane in a T hangar with a garage door in the back of the hangar. The door opened to the west. The wind blew in the door, lifter the roof, bent the trusses and roof tin on my hangar and the next two. Bottom line, if some is good, more steal is better..... Build it strong!
 
I was quoted $19,000 for a 45x40--12' h with electric bi fold, delivered. R and M.

Those Wash. prices sound good.

Also, 14 week delivery from date of deposit. Any idea on the Edwards?

also, depends on planning commision too.have to match the rest of the hangars at certain airports.

also-- we just put up a 45 ft. Hydroswing for $9,700 delivered. but we ordered too many extras. three remotes, just about worthless, not needed. Great door.
 
Anyone ever build a hanger with an apartment [maybe a studio/efficiency kind of thing] as a second floor? I would think that would be very nice to have if you were building anyway and although more expensive for sure it would be fairly 'cost effective' [would be my guess].

thanks

John
 
Apartment

For an apartment, you would need to be careful of zoning. Some locations are zoned for aircraft storage only.

But if everything is OK, then I've seen several done. I just finished a 60x60 with 20' sidewalls. Across the back is a 20x60 steel loft at 10' up. On this I plan an apartment. Back of hangar faces runway, and has double patio doors on the two levels. Upper opens onto steel frame balcony, lower onto ground level.


Deuskid said:
Anyone ever build a hanger with an apartment [maybe a studio/efficiency kind of thing] as a second floor? I would think that would be very nice to have if you were building anyway and although more expensive for sure it would be fairly 'cost effective' [would be my guess].

thanks

John
 
Ultimate hangars

One could spend more time building a hangar than his plane ! I am fortunate enough to live in a nice airpark in North Carolina....the hangar becomes sort of the individuality of each pilot. Since we all spend lots of time there, (the hangar), a lot of thought and $$$ can be involved.Several have Morton type wood and sheeting,and others steel. Many have apartments, offices,ect inside.One particular has a billiard room complete with hands free urinals in the mens room. It all seems to be a matter of how much to spend....personally, I have a 33'x28' with a 3100'sq house attatched to it.Works great for an RV,shares all the plumbing and HVAC,and has a large playroom above for whatever. From what I have seen here....wood/"Morton" types are tighter/warmer, but steel gets more space for the $$.

They are all great hangouts!
Bill
 
RV8RIVETER said:
You may want to consider another option. I moved into my airpark home last year and am now doing all the prep work for my future hanger.

I plan on building my own air conditioned hanger with ICF blocks and using steel paneled SIP's for the roof. The plus is 250mph R-50 walls and R-30 roof with minimal trussing. It also makes it easier to do a majority of the work myself. I only have to make my slab 4-6 inches since the walls sit on footings, saving concrete. Plus the ICF walls are the form for the slab. I will be using Nudura ICF and Structall snap-n-lock panels for the roof. The roof panels will be 4x24, span an unsupported distance of 25ft and easily installed by 3 people. ...


Wade,
I am in the early stages of planning a house with attached hangar and would like to learn more about this. Can you pass along a website for these alternative construction methods? Also, why didn't you do the house with this type of construction?
 
Requested Info

apatti said:
Wade,
I am in the early stages of planning a house with attached hangar and would like to learn more about this. Can you pass along a website for these alternative construction methods? Also, why didn't you do the house with this type of construction?

Tony

Sure thing. The ICF I have chosen is;
http://www.nudura.com/Content.cfm?C=619&SC=1&SCM=0&MI=646&L1M=646

I chose that because the distributer offers an inexpensive class in my area nad it is 8ft long and 18 inches tall. All the rest are 4ft long, so I will be able to install in half the time.

For an example of how I plan th build can be found here. It is another ICF maker but the mechanics are the same.
http://www.buildblock.com/projects/res/Workshop-loft_OK.htm

The roof SIP's I will be using are;
http://www.structall.com/Content/Residential/GettingStarted/ResSNL.htm
http://www.structall.com/Content/Panel/Types/SNL.htm

I chose these, because they have steel exterior, easily snap in place, span 25ft without support, so I will only need 3 roof trusses, and they have a local office that will deliver for free. I considered using these for the entire structure, but the cost is more than ICF and my slab would cost more having to buy the wood for the forming. Go here to see a photo of roof and building.
http://www.structall.com/Content/Garage/GarIntro.htm

As for the last question. It came down to knowledge, logistics, and $$'s. I did not do a bunch of research untill after we started the house. But, I still would not have done the ICF, maybe the SIP's. There are also very few builders in my area familiar with either ICF or SIP's and the ones that are are very expensive. It probably would have added at least $20k to our house cost, not an option for me. Our old house was 80+ miles away, so I had limited time to do any work myself. I was lucky my builder (couldn't be happier with him) let me be the sub for the TV,phone, alarm, wood flooring, and central vac. If I were to do it over again, I would have done it the same way, except had Demilac spray-in insulation and wood or vinyl coated windows installed.

I hope that covered everything. :)
 
Check your proposed construction with a structural engineer.
I was surprised when the slab for my 50 x 67 hangar took 9 concrete trucks.

Part of it was a large 3 ft x 3 ft "concrete beam" connecting the two forward main supports. Apparently they are needed as weight, since the failure mode is - really high winds, door blows in, wind pressurizes the building and lifts it off the foundation.

This made the slab more expensive, and I paid the same for the slab as for the actual raw steel building. It's a nice slab though... :)

My hangar worked out at (in 2001 prices)
18,000 - building
18,000 - slab (probably overpaid, but the custom home builder was nearby and had no wait)
10,000 - erection crew and insulation - took 3 guys 10 days.
5,000 - Horton door

At this time, concrete prices have shot up in AZ, but I don't know how the steel buildings have increased....

gil in Tucson
 
az_gila said:
Check your proposed construction with a structural engineer.
I was surprised when the slab for my 50 x 67 hangar took 9 concrete trucks.

Part of it was a large 3 ft x 3 ft "concrete beam" connecting the two forward main supports. Apparently they are needed as weight, since the failure mode is - really high winds, door blows in, wind pressurizes the building and lifts it off the foundation.

gil in Tucson

That is the beauty of ICF construction, all 3 walls are a one piece monolithic concrete structure, approx 15 yards worth. No need to worry about that lifting off of the ground. That is why my hanger floor will basically be a driveway.

I do have an architect (brother-in-law) designing my footings and roof trusses though.
 
Wade... sounds like a good method...
My steel building was 11 tons delivered... the two "concrete beams" I just calculated out at about 18 tons....

There's a lot of weight in a hangar...... :)

gil in Tucson
 
Hangar construction

RV8RIVETER said:
That is the beauty of ICF construction, all 3 walls are a one piece monolithic concrete structure, approx 15 yards worth. No need to worry about that lifting off of the ground. That is why my hanger floor will basically be a driveway. ...
Wade, The ICF system looks really cool. I scoured the websites you mentioned, and it seems to be a very good way to build. If I ever get to the place where I can build something, I'm going to check into that much more closely. Thanks for the links.
 
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