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  #41  
Old 01-25-2022, 08:26 AM
rv7adak rv7adak is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: north central Illinois KPNT
Posts: 11
Default Reiff heat system

plus 1 for the Reiff works great trouble free from 2006
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  #42  
Old 01-25-2022, 10:33 AM
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Prepperpilot Prepperpilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Buckeye Executive 90A5, Columbus Ohio
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Yup. Same thing for me in Ohio. Just plug it in and leave it on. I do open up my oil cap when I leave it on for lengthy time. Put heavy blankets bungee corded around cowl. Keep a my oil at 75F
I know the debate about moisture and corrosion. But I fly often.
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  #43  
Old 01-25-2022, 10:24 PM
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rv6n6r rv6n6r is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Gearhart Oregon
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This is a fun thread to watch just for some of the crazy-wonderful innovations!

But I'm seeing some people focusing on oil temps and getting heated up in short times (like, an hour or less). According to Mike Busch on Engines,
All the warm oil in the world wonít help if the crank-to-bearing or piston-to-cylinder clearances go to zero. To avoid this, itís essential for a preheat to warm up the both crankcase and the cylinder barrels.

That takes time and is probably why Reiff shows warming times in hours not fractions of hours. Just sayin'.
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  #44  
Old 01-26-2022, 07:35 AM
wawrzynskivp wawrzynskivp is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Incline Village Nv
Posts: 312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6n6r View Post

According to Mike Busch on Engines,
[i]All the warm oil in the world wonít help if the crank-to-bearing or piston-to-cylinder clearances go to zero. .
Does Mike have numbers for when our engines cold seize?

Seems like the aluminum and copper and babbitt would shrink faster than the steel by their coefficients of expansion/temp
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  #45  
Old 01-26-2022, 07:27 PM
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rv6n6r rv6n6r is offline
 
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Location: Gearhart Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wawrzynskivp View Post
Does Mike have numbers for when our engines cold seize?

Seems like the aluminum and copper and babbitt would shrink faster than the steel by their coefficients of expansion/temp
I think the book has those numbers but I don't have it handy at the moment. And he mentions that the numbers won't be the same for every engine since engine wear will be a factor. There's good info in this article at AOPA, but I really think it's worth getting the book, and not just for this. Tons of good info on preheating, cooling, oil, repairs, operation, maintenance etc. especially for people like me who are good with a wrench but not necessarily engine experts.
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  #46  
Old 01-27-2022, 02:40 AM
wawrzynskivp wawrzynskivp is offline
 
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Location: Incline Village Nv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6n6r View Post
There's good info in this article at AOPA
Thanks! I hadn't considered the aluminum bearing webs for the crank.
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  #47  
Old 01-29-2022, 07:08 AM
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gmcjetpilot gmcjetpilot is offline
 
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I like #26 blanket. If you look at any real cold weather operators, Northern Canada, Alaska parked outside they put insulated covers over cowl.

Never have done this but some use King Sized electric blanket and wrap the cowl and stuff in the cowl inlets and exit. It may not be fast but it seems to work if allowed to run for several hours or overnight. Is it safe? Up to you to decide. I don't see why not.

Biggest wear factor is long periods of disuse. Flying to full operating temps for 30-60 minutes daily daily makes engine last longer. Short run ups are the worst. If it's above freezing and see oil pressure right after start you are good. Min oil temp before take off? Some say 100F. Lyc states no stumble when applying takeoff power. OP in green of course.

Lyc says
Prehead required when 10F or lower (some 320H models 20F).
Don't over prime (I prime and wait 30 secs or more to crank letting fuel vaporize)
OP indication right after start shortly after normal delay as during warm temps.
Do not low idle (1000 RPM min) to avoid lead fowling of plugs.
When flying OT 165 to 220F
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Last edited by gmcjetpilot : 01-29-2022 at 07:40 AM.
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  #48  
Old 01-29-2022, 07:28 AM
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MacCool MacCool is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: central Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcjetpilot View Post
I like #26 blanket. If you look at any real cold weather operators, Northern Canada, Alaska parked outside they put insulated covers over cowl.
I understand and agree with the value of using a blanket or similar insulated cover if there's a heat source...it makes the heat source, like a Reiff preheater, that much more efficient by limiting convective loss while heating. And I agree that it helps retain engine heat (for a few hours) if applied after shutting down an engine. But after a few hours (depending on the efficiency of that particular blanket) on a cold ramp without any external heat source, the engine will be at ambient air temperature and the blanket accomplishes nothing.
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  #49  
Old 01-29-2022, 10:24 AM
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cderk cderk is offline
 
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Location: Park Ridge, NJ
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I donít have a DIY engine heater, but I did build my own cell phone switch to turn my heater on as well as a portable space heater to warm the cabinÖ

Parts list at the end of the video.
https://youtu.be/BVtY0MzXYDs
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  #50  
Old 01-30-2022, 06:04 PM
wawrzynskivp wawrzynskivp is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Incline Village Nv
Posts: 312
Default Data Points for Reiff

I have two Reiff heater pads adhered to my oil pan.

Overnight temp was 15F. 4 hrs on with cowl plugs in and horse blanket over top of cowl. Prestart oil temp indication was 67F, CHT 52F. Immediately after start oil temp rose to 90F.

Considering where the CHT probes are I think it safe to assume the cylinder barrels were warmer than 52F.
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Last edited by wawrzynskivp : 01-30-2022 at 06:06 PM.
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