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  #21  
Old 01-21-2020, 01:48 PM
rv8ch's Avatar
rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 4,137
Default very nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronschreck View Post
...
Ron, those do look nice! I will file this tip away for "next time".
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Mickey Coggins
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  #22  
Old 08-19-2021, 08:37 PM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 536
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Reviving an old thread. I'm planning to make my bottom rudder fairing removable as well (#6 screws), to give more convenient access to the tail light wiring. I found the fit of the fiberglass part against the rudder skin is not very precise. In particular:

1. The fiberglass is thicker than the rudder skin, leaving a pronounced edge along the surface. If I were permanently attaching, I might choose to fill that edge with some epoxy and file it smooth. Any good approaches for making this edge nice while keeping the bottom removable?

2. The fit is particularly bad against the forward R-710 "horn brace" where there are no fasteners called out. There is at least a 1/16" gap between the metal and the fiberglass part. Suggestions on how to solve?
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Ryan Drake
Livermore, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 12/31/2020
RV-7A (N12VD): Everything done that can be done at home. Waiting for hangar to finish up.
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  #23  
Old 08-20-2021, 07:36 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,665
Default Rudder cap

Quote:
Originally Posted by Draker View Post
Reviving an old thread. I'm planning to make my bottom rudder fairing removable as well (#6 screws), to give more convenient access to the tail light wiring. I found the fit of the fiberglass part against the rudder skin is not very precise. In particular:

1. The fiberglass is thicker than the rudder skin, leaving a pronounced edge along the surface. If I were permanently attaching, I might choose to fill that edge with some epoxy and file it smooth. Any good approaches for making this edge nice while keeping the bottom removable?

2. The fit is particularly bad against the forward R-710 "horn brace" where there are no fasteners called out. There is at least a 1/16" gap between the metal and the fiberglass part. Suggestions on how to solve?
Check my blog. Mine fits after surgery. I pop riveted it but easy to build removeable.
Look about 5/11/20 on this page
https://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com/p/...12020.html?m=1
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #24  
Old 08-20-2021, 11:18 AM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
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Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 536
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Thanks, Larry, that is very helpful. I like how you cut it to install aft-to-forward rather than by pushing up. Wish I discovered that idea but sadly I already cut mine.

Looks like you also filled the VS and HS tips, using the foam backing. Having a bear of a time doing that, too. Fiberglass layups don't seem to want to bend 90 degrees around the edge of the cap. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
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Ryan Drake
Livermore, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 12/31/2020
RV-7A (N12VD): Everything done that can be done at home. Waiting for hangar to finish up.
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  #25  
Old 08-20-2021, 12:13 PM
jacoby jacoby is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: WNC
Posts: 312
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Draker View Post
Thanks, Larry, that is very helpful. I like how you cut it to install aft-to-forward rather than by pushing up. Wish I discovered that idea but sadly I already cut mine.

Looks like you also filled the VS and HS tips, using the foam backing. Having a bear of a time doing that, too. Fiberglass layups don't seem to want to bend 90 degrees around the edge of the cap. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
I put down a fillet of epoxy & micro to alleviate that problem. The 7725 I used just wasn't going to make the full 90 bend without leaving bubbles. I also used a 1/4" thick piece of structural foam bonded in with a micro slurry (w/ fillets and filled in the surface) and just left it in there. I recessed it about 1/16", applied two layers of 7725 on the outside, one on the inside, and then finished flush with a thin coat of micro.
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