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Old 07-12-2021, 08:07 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,654
Default ...and

You might want to wear safety glasses while learning about Adel Clamps...
Aerospace Engineer '88


Dues+ Paid 2020,...Thanks DR+
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:10 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 1,853

Originally Posted by rocketman1988 View Post
You might want to wear safety glasses while learning about Adel Clamps...
And take some blood pressure pills ...
RV-14A #140376
N196 (Flying)
2019 Bronze Lindy
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:19 AM
RVDan RVDan is offline
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 939

There is some very good general information in the Tony Bingelis books. Google search his name and you will find “Firewall Forward” and “Engines” which may help. They are a little old, but the engines and installations haven’t changed much.
They are quick and informative reads.
Dan Morris
Frederick, MD
Hph 304CZ
RV6 built and sold
N199EC RV6A flying
Retired Aerospace Engineer and A&P/IA
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Old 07-12-2021, 09:12 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
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You’ve gotten a lot of good, honest, and encouraging responses, and the thing to remember is that thousands of people have done this before you.

That said, when people ask this question, I always tell them that there’s firewall forward installations are incredibly simple … and incredibly easy to mess up in the details. Yes, its like a 1950’s automobile - very simple conceptually. But the results of a loose fitting or connection are much more serious in an airplane than in a car. There are just a lot of little details that are done a certain way in aviation because we learned through hard experience to do them that way.

If you have to learn it on your own, without someone else to show you, there are traps.

Bingelis is a great place to start - good books. Another would be Vic Syracuse’s book on inspections - lots and lots (and lots) of picture of stuff that was done WRONG and still got signed off by someone. There is probably more experience in those pages than anywhere else I know.

So yes - you can do it. But go at it with the idea that mistakes won’t necessarily be obvious, and you need to get some aviation-specific knowledge …. Which is out there. Learn to posts pictures here on VAF and to ask questions - then figure out who knows what they are talking about….
Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
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Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
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Old 07-12-2021, 09:41 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 16,044

A couple of suggestions.

Work on a system until it is done, then start another system. Fuel, electrical etc.

If possible work on things that get hidden by other things first. Accessing some areas gets pretty hard as the installation progresses. Exhaust will cover up a lot of access.
Mike Starkey
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Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

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Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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Old 07-12-2021, 10:10 AM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,493

Start by installing the items that are fixed in space (ie, not flexible) like the exhaust pipes, filtered airbox, oil cooler, etc. then move on to the more flexible things like control lines, heater hoses, fuel/oil hoses. It gets crowded pretty quick under the cowling. Buy some clear plastic vinyl tubing from your local hardware store and you can use it to mock up the various hoses and figure out what sizes you need. I did the same with the throttle/mixture control lines. If a standard size from Van's or Aircraft Spruce will work then you can save some $$$ from having to order a custom size.

Doug has a whole section on firewall forward articles here.
Bruce Hill
RV-9A N5771H flown over 900 hours!
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Old 07-12-2021, 01:38 PM
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rv8ch rv8ch is offline
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 4,092

You've got 99% of the great advice you need above. Do it like the plans and it will turn out great. One thing that helped me is to remember that the engine is going to move - a lot. Think wet dog shaking. Keep that in mind, and give yourself appropriate slack on hoses, cables, wires, tubing and your installation will be robust.

Get some hemostats for the adel clamps - they work great. Don't forget to buy some all-metal locknuts.

More great info here:
Mickey Coggins
"Hello, world!"
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Old 07-12-2021, 05:10 PM
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RayJr RayJr is offline
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 31

Thanks everyone for all the great advice. I'm making note of all the tips and checking into those books and links. The can say I am a lot less worried than this morning
Ray C
Ottawa, Ont
RV-14A - Under Construction
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Old 07-12-2021, 06:11 PM
SportAvServ SportAvServ is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ione, California
Posts: 260
Default got ya's

Make sure there is a fitting for your oil pressure gauge in the engine before you mount it. It is located just under the upper right engine mount. There may be a fitting there or just a plug. If no fitting, I use a AN823-2D 45 deg, it's 1/8 pipe thread into the engine and -2 flair for a hose to the gauge. Just a little Tight Seal on the pipe threads.
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:16 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Worland, Wyoming
Posts: 1,906

I might also add make sure you read section 5! There are some unforgivables that can be made fwf. For example aviation AN fluid fittings are 37 degrees and not 45. Also don’t use certain sealants/ Teflon tape, etc. Even though I built a -7A I have a set of the -14 plans and you are in good hands with those things, very detailed!
Jereme Carne
RV-7A Flying as of 03/2021
Exempt but gladly paying!
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