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  #51  
Old 04-14-2021, 09:32 PM
Lt Dan Lt Dan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
... does a P-mag offer a way to fixate the wires against vibration? ...
Yes. They tell you to make sure you use adel clamps on the P Mag.
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  #52  
Old 04-14-2021, 09:43 PM
Lt Dan Lt Dan is offline
 
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A little off the original topic here, but very useful and applicable information. While we're on the subject... I'm not a builder. One day I will be, but in the meantime, I plan to learn everything I possibly can by working on my bird. On that note, what is the approved solution for aviation "heat shrink" and the like, once you've crimped/soldered/butted your wires together? I ask specifically because I now have exposed connections that I uncovered while tracing my tach problem. They were covered in some kind of balled up rubbery electrical tape that might have done the trick but was at the very least unsightly. I'm wondering how people get those beautiful finishing touches like in Jim's last photo. See attached picture to get an idea of what I'm working with.
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  #53  
Old 04-14-2021, 11:27 PM
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rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt Dan View Post
...what is the approved solution for aviation "heat shrink" and the like, once you've crimped/soldered/butted your wires together? ...
Two solutions: 1) slide some heat shrink on the finished connection like you have in the photo; 2) put the heat shrink on before finishing the connection and make the connection in a straight line.

If you want to learn a lot about wiring best practices, spend some time on this site: http://www.aeroelectric.com - there are a lot of hints and tips there.
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  #54  
Old 04-15-2021, 07:23 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt Dan View Post
A little off the original topic here, but very useful and applicable information. While we're on the subject... I'm not a builder. One day I will be,... I'm wondering how people get those beautiful finishing touches like in Jim's last photo. See attached picture to get an idea of what I'm working with.
Those are awful splices. You can slide some shrink tubing over them, but note how pulling the wire just splits the tube and stresses the wire across a 90 degree bend.

Want to be a builder? Time to start your tool investment. The standard butt splice is an AMP PIDG. You'll invest in the correct ratcheting crimp tool, which guarantees the correct degree of crimp. A PIDG does not require shrink tubing. Here is one popular source: https://www.steinair.com/product-cat...erminals-tape/

Shrink tubing comes in many varieties. The good stuff is 3-to-1 or 4-to-1 shrink, lined with heat melt adhesive, as it significantly improves fatigue performance and seals it against the elements. There is also clear, no adhesive, which makes for nice labels, and lots of specialty types:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Shrink-Tube-&-Tape/

If the shrink covered connection is preferred, use a bare, brazed barrel terminal:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!In...01870.h_801871
.
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  #55  
Old 04-15-2021, 08:25 PM
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GalinHdz GalinHdz is offline
 
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If you absolutely have to solder wires, I recommend you use one of these Solder Sleeves, in the correct size. Used correctly not only do they make a good electrical connection, they provide mechanical support.

You can also splice them together with one of these Wire Overlap Connector. Make sure you get the correct hex key for it. They are a bit pricey but well worth the extra cost.

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Last edited by GalinHdz : 04-18-2021 at 07:24 AM.
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  #56  
Old 04-16-2021, 02:15 AM
jakej jakej is offline
 
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Ok I got it, some people just want to make it appear difficult -

1. Why not just solder the wire - with care & the correct technique the just very end of the wires can be soldered without solder wicking much at all.
2. Each P-Mag has a p-clip fitted & my method is to cable tie the wire loom (usually 3-4 wires) to it. That makes it easier to completely remove the mag for annual (100hr) inspections- much easier than trying to remove the cap screw in situation.
3. IMO securing the wires to the p clip close as possible to the connector will give all the support needed & therefore mitigate the risk of wire breakage. It’s not rocket science
It appears in an earlier post that an OP wire may have been loose because the wire was not in place properly to start with - the slotted screws need to be undone first before inserting the wires ( I’ve made that mistake, once) , do the screws up & then do the standard ‘pull test’. 650+ hrs & many P-Mag installs later without issues since.

Last edited by jakej : 04-16-2021 at 02:22 AM.
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  #57  
Old 04-17-2021, 12:12 AM
Lt Dan Lt Dan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv8ch View Post
If you want to learn a lot about wiring best practices, spend some time on this site: http://www.aeroelectric.com - there are a lot of hints and tips there.
This site is a gold mine! Thanks for sharing!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
...

The standard butt splice is an AMP PIDG. You'll invest in the correct ratcheting crimp tool, which guarantees the correct degree of crimp. A PIDG does not require shrink tubing. Here is one popular source: https://www.steinair.com/product-cat...erminals-tape/

Shrink tubing comes in many varieties. The good stuff is 3-to-1 or 4-to-1 shrink, lined with heat melt adhesive, as it significantly improves fatigue performance and seals it against the elements. There is also clear, no adhesive, which makes for nice labels, and lots of specialty types:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Shrink-Tube-&-Tape/

If the shrink covered connection is preferred, use a bare, brazed barrel terminal:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!In...01870.h_801871
.
Perfect. Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by GalinHdz View Post
If you absolutely have to solder wires, I recommend you use one of these Solder Sleeves, in the correct size. Used correctly not only do they make a good electrical connection, they provide mechanical support.

You can also splice them together with one of these Wire Overlap Connector.

...
Thanks for the info!
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  #58  
Old 04-17-2021, 12:13 AM
Lt Dan Lt Dan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakej View Post
Ok I got it, some people just want to make it appear difficult -

1. Why not just solder the wire - with care & the correct technique the just very end of the wires can be soldered without solder wicking much at all.
2. Each P-Mag has a p-clip fitted & my method is to cable tie the wire loom (usually 3-4 wires) to it. That makes it easier to completely remove the mag for annual (100hr) inspections- much easier than trying to remove the cap screw in situation.
3. IMO securing the wires to the p clip close as possible to the connector will give all the support needed & therefore mitigate the risk of wire breakage. It’s not rocket science
It appears in an earlier post that an OP wire may have been loose because the wire was not in place properly to start with - the slotted screws need to be undone first before inserting the wires ( I’ve made that mistake, once) , do the screws up & then do the standard ‘pull test’. 650+ hrs & many P-Mag installs later without issues since.
Do you have a picture you could possibly share? It sounds interesting but I'm having trouble visualizing your setup.
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  #59  
Old 04-17-2021, 07:12 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GalinHdz View Post
If you absolutely have to solder wires, I recommend you use one of these Solder Sleeves, in the correct size. Used correctly not only do they make a good electrical connection, they provide mechanical support.


Hate to disagree but Solder sleeves are made for terminating the shield on shielded wire not joining wires.
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  #60  
Old 04-17-2021, 09:11 AM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Victoria, Canada
Posts: 2,315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Those are awful splices. You can slide some shrink tubing over them, but note how pulling the wire just splits the tube and stresses the wire across a 90 degree bend.

Want to be a builder? Time to start your tool investment. The standard butt splice is an AMP PIDG. You'll invest in the correct ratcheting crimp tool, which guarantees the correct degree of crimp. A PIDG does not require shrink tubing. Here is one popular source: https://www.steinair.com/product-cat...erminals-tape/

Shrink tubing comes in many varieties. The good stuff is 3-to-1 or 4-to-1 shrink, lined with heat melt adhesive, as it significantly improves fatigue performance and seals it against the elements. There is also clear, no adhesive, which makes for nice labels, and lots of specialty types:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Shrink-Tube-&-Tape/

If the shrink covered connection is preferred, use a bare, brazed barrel terminal:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!In...01870.h_801871
.
To be more specific, crimp terminals should meet MS25036 specifications. Both Amp (TE) PIDG and Molex AVIKRIMP brands meet this specification. When I built my Rocket, the inspector actually asked the specific brands of my terminals.
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