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  #11  
Old 04-18-2021, 07:55 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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Originally Posted by agent4573 View Post
The only thing I don't like about hitting the stops on the engine side while there's still throw left on the quadrant side is you can overstress the system. If you go all angry gorilla on the control, once the engine side hits the stop, all the extra force gets put into the cable and into the small arm on the engine side controls. It's always better to have a hard stop on the pilot side so that any extra force goes into the quadrant and not to the engine.
What do you think stops a push/pull control when you yank it back? My inspector checked to make sure the control hit the engine stops with at least a smidge of additional travel at the pilot control. There should be no doubt that full throttle can be achieved. (And same for the others).
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2021, 08:08 PM
PCHunt PCHunt is offline
 
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Originally Posted by agent4573 View Post
The only thing I don't like about hitting the stops on the engine side while there's still throw left on the quadrant side is you can overstress the system. If you go all angry gorilla on the control, once the engine side hits the stop, all the extra force gets put into the cable and into the small arm on the engine side controls. It's always better to have a hard stop on the pilot side so that any extra force goes into the quadrant and not to the engine.
That is not correct. The engine controls should hit their stops at the engine. That's the only way to ensure you get full travel of throttle, mixture, and carb heat. If you adjust it so that the throttle or mixture control in the cockpit hits before reaching the limit at the engine, you are doing it wrong.

It's commonly called "Cushion". Every airplane I've ever worked on has been adjusted that way, and often in the maintenance instructions it is required.

No need to "Gorilla Arm" anything in the airplane.
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2021, 08:27 PM
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Saville Saville is offline
 
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Originally Posted by TimO View Post
There's nothing stopping you from drilling a new hole on the quadrant lever, if you are careful that it won't interfere. Usually by a combination of drilling the lever on the engine and/or the quadrant, you can come up with an ideal solution that gives your quadrant nearly full travel (with a tiny cushion) and still hit stop to stop on the engine side. The benefit is that at that point you have a little finer control over whatever control it is you're fixing. i.e. you can get more precise mixture if you spread it out to nearly full throw on the quadrant.

You can even remove the cable from each end and test various combinations if you're careful.
Discussed that with the A&P. His opinion is that it would weaken the lever arm. Thought it might help to place a solid rivet in the old hole, but didn't really recommend it.

So I've been trying to find out what the lever arm material is and perhaps fashion another one
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2021, 11:52 PM
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rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Saville View Post
Discussed that with the A&P. His opinion is that it would weaken the lever arm. Thought it might help to place a solid rivet in the old hole, but didn't really recommend it.

So I've been trying to find out what the lever arm material is and perhaps fashion another one
Any hole will weaken whatever it's drilled into, but the CT83 arms are pretty strong. I doubt an extra hole there will cause trouble in this application. At least I hope not, since that's how I ensured that I have full travel on both the servo and throttle lever.

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Last edited by rv8ch : 04-18-2021 at 11:56 PM.
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