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Tool to break the canopy

backcountry

Well Known Member
It is possible that a RV-12 could get into an upside down position as may take place in conducting a forced landing.
This would result in not being able get out of the aircraft because of not being able to open the canopy.

With this mind I would like know some recommendations on canopy breakers that could be used to get out of the aircraft. I think this should be standard equipment.
 
It is possible that a RV-12 could get into an upside down position as may take place in conducting a forced landing.
This would result in not being able get out of the aircraft because of not being able to open the canopy.

With this mind I would like know some recommendations on canopy breakers that could be used to get out of the aircraft. I think this should be standard equipment.

There are a few threads on this topic if you do a search. Here are a couple.

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/search.php?searchid=42606494
 
FWIW, I carry a pair of leather work gloves and a multi-tool (with sharp point, saw, and pliers) in my RV-12's glove box. I figure that I can more effectively deal with recalcitrant plexiglass shards if wearing gloves.
 
I bought a cheap small hammer and ground the head to a point and mounted it on the arm rest on the passenger side ...it is held in place by a clip you buy at any hardware store that is made to hold, say, a broom handle on the wall.
 
Canopy Buster Tool

Some friends and I did some tests on an RV-9A that was being parted out. We strapped two pilots into the cockpit of the airplane with the wings off and rolled it inverted. We tried different tools to break the plex. Short version... the hatchet was BY FAR the best tool for breaking the canopy. The aluminum wedge-shaped tool was the worst. BTW, we also learned it?s best to break the canopy BEFORE releasing the harness. You can get a much better swing while seated inverted than if you?re sitting on the inverted canopy.
 
I got one of these. Its lighter than the hatchet, and just slightly larger than some of the so-called "escape-tools" that are for sale. I figure its pretty easy to **** it (net nanny is so funny!) , even when you're upside down, hanging from the straps. One or to punches to get a good crack started, then its solid enough to use to bash your way out. ---------I've been told by a couple of folks that this is overkill. But, .....till proven otherwise, it makes me feel better.

penetrating bolt gun https://www.bunnyrancher.com/store/p42/The_Ballista_-_Penetrating_Bolt_Gun_.html

s575940860307007594_p42_i3_w1240.jpeg
 
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An old railroad spike is what I had lying around, it fit the hand well so I sharpened the tip on a bench grinder and painted it red. It?s going in my current build. Cool repurposed tool.
Also, a few years ago at Sun n Fun there was a vender demonstration where a guy used a Wave multitool to break a canopy with the pliers function. It has a particularly pointed tip.
Hopefully you?ll never need to use either.
 
If anybody listened to Patty Wagstaff's recent podcast about her flip over in her Bonanza she mentioned she recommended everyone have someway to break the canopy.

You will also notice her comment that the contents of the cabin went all over. So I am not only thinking which tool would be best to carry, but also how do I secure it #1 so it doesn't become a projectile, and #2 I can find it will possibly upside down.
 

As much as I like to not carry extra weight around, the only thing that works quickly (assume fuel is leaking if upside down) is something with mass. All the punches and handyman type tools may work but they take time to chisel your way out. I have the hammer type, with seat belt cutter, as shown in this video. I do believe securing it, so you know where it is when hanging upside down, is important, as previously mentioned.
 
I have this:
Lifehammer Brand Safety Hammer

This appears to be what is used in the video, but not sure.

and this
Anti Splat Aero Snapper

it's a bit like a fire extinguisher that I haven't used yet, so I can't really comment on how well they work when I'm upside down, but I have tried both on scrap plastic and they work well for both cracking and breaking plastic. And the craftsmanship is excellent, (as are everything else I've bought from Allan and crew).

One tool to crack the canopy (if not already done from the roll over) and the one from Anti Splat Aero is a nice tool with leverage to finish breaking out.

The hammer came with a mount, so I just tethered my break-out tool to it, all within reach of me.
 
I have this Gerber LMF II knife velcroed to my side wall within easy reach (and it won't disappear in a hard landing or flipped airplane situation). US military helicopter pilots have been carrying these in the sandbox to help punch their way out of plexiglass if needed. Use the butt end and keep the blade in the sheath (obviously).

An observation about the Lifehammer: it's made for car glass, but I don't think it'll be effective on our thick plastic.
 
An observation about the Lifehammer: it's made for car glass, but I don't think it'll be effective on our thick plastic.

My personal experience is that it works very well. Just swing away. A couple good whacks and you will have a nice crack. A good demonstration is in the video posted earlier - here it is again for quick reference Cracking the canopy
 
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Canopy break

I bought a HF survivor knife, has a hollow handle with goodies like compass etc. Ground the blade shorter and sharper to 3 in. Hope I don't need to use it! GL ben
 
Too funny :D. It?ll definitely work and you can also use it for your weekend wood projects.
I actually wasn't kidding. Take a look at my canopy. Even if I busted out a big hole, I don't think I could fit my large body through it. I would have to saw out a section of the fuselage side. Yeah, that would break my heart, but with 12 gallons of fuel in the cockpit with me, I wouldn't much care at that point.

nw8WnJ.jpg
 
I have often wondered about making a tool with a pointed end that fits permanently over the bottom end of a fire extinguisher (whilst in its mount). Probably need to modify mount to allow this.
It would add mass to a canopy breaker, be mounted where you can get to it, be easy to get out of mount and use.
I am not smart enough to engineer it.
 
Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Hackzall Recip Saw (2420-20) (Tool Only - No Battery)

Well darn, I tried to copy and paste the picture here too, but the picture wouldn't go. (Dougie--is that on purpose?) Just copy and paste the above address I guess. You will see a hackzall with a 45* bend in it. Mine is nice and straight and velcroed by the left ankle of the back seater in my 8. Don't know if the straight ones are available anymore, and this 45* jobber may or may not fit:confused::confused: Cut a solid steel ruler in half with it twice with the same blade. Should be able to cut your way out of an upside down RV with water trickling in (Like the RV 6, I think it was, that wound up upside down in a marsh with water trickling in near I think it was Martha's Vineyard---pilot drowned)
 
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More on Canopy Breaks

We were aware of that video when we did our tests. We were suspicious of it because the hammer in the video is designed to break automotive safety glass. Acrylic (Plexiglass) is much different. We couldn't get the pointy hammer to do much of anything. We guessed maybe the guys in the video had an old brittle canopy or the temp was different... hard to say. As they often say on this forum, your mileage may vary. But my wife and I carry a small survival hatchet under the right seat in our RV-6.
 
Canopy Tools

We were aware of the video when we ran our test, in fact suspicion about that video is partly what drove us to do our tests. The pointy hammer is designed to break automotive safety glass. Acrylic (plexiglass) is different, tougher. We wonder if the guys in the video had an old brittle canopy or if the temp was different than in our test. Anyway, we didn't get results like that. The automotive hammer did very little in our test. As they say often on this forum, your mileage may vary. But my wife and I keep a survival hatchet under the right seat in our RV-6.
 
We were aware of the video when we ran our test, in fact suspicion about that video is partly what drove us to do our tests. The pointy hammer is designed to break automotive safety glass. Acrylic (plexiglass) is different, tougher. We wonder if the guys in the video had an old brittle canopy or if the temp was different than in our test. Anyway, we didn't get results like that. The automotive hammer did very little in our test. As they say often on this forum, your mileage may vary. But my wife and I keep a survival hatchet under the right seat in our RV-6.

I've used the escape hammer to break both lexan and regular acrylic. It works fine. You can't expect to hit in one point and shatter the window like you would glass, you have to hit it a couple times, move a few inches and hit it again - a crack will form. Keep smacking the plastic in a line and the whole piece will break.

This is where the Snapper tool comes in. Once you get a crack, force the Snapper into the crack and break it away. Again, works like a charm.
 
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