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RV8 Tools for Travel?

Prepperpilot

Well Known Member
I know everyone has a list of tools they take for trips away from base. I almost got caught with my pants down this weekend. Tailwheel chain clip busted loose. Strong crosswinds. Thank god for Leatherman Wave.
Suggestions would be appreciated for new-ish Rv8 owner.Some people carry an extra tire and a tube. Geeze?? Not sure if that's overkill?
Thanks friends
 
I carry those things that would not be readily available on the road (within reason). For example:
- Spare inner tube
- Brake Pads
- Brake master cylinder rebuild kit (software)
- Spare gas cap
- Spare gas tank sump valve
- Brake caliper piston O ring
- Avionics tray tool
- Documentation for all connections (as in pin outs), wire runs, avionics, and such
- Just a few common tools, such as 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2”, 9/16” wrenches, a combination screw driver, valve stem extension and tire gauge

Side comment. I did a few landings with the tailwheel in full swivel. It was not be a major problem.

Carl
 
I have been flying my RV-8 for 12 years, I never travel with tools, only a towel and plexus.

PD: I don't have tools in my car either.
 
I carry those things that would not be readily available on the road (within reason). For example:
- Spare inner tube
- Brake Pads
- Brake master cylinder rebuild kit (software)
- Spare gas cap
- Spare gas tank sump valve
- Brake caliper piston O ring
- Avionics tray tool
- Documentation for all connections (as in pin outs), wire runs, avionics, and such
- Just a few common tools, such as 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2”, 9/16” wrenches, a combination screw driver, valve stem extension and tire gauge

Side comment. I did a few landings with the tailwheel in full swivel. It was not be a major problem.

Carl
That's a pretty good list. Got some of that as well. Extra brake pads and calipers.. Never considered that..
I just want to carry around 20lbs of parts and tools. Good list though. Thank you
 
Another way of looking at the requirement is not what tools do you want, but what capabilities do you want. Like, remove cowl and wheel pants; clean spark plugs; etc. When I suspected alternator problems, I took one along. Avionics connections and manuals on the smart phone. In an RV-10, I might take more, just because.

And don’t forget at least minimal survival gear: water, warmth, signaling. You can be close to civilization in the woods and hard to find.
 
Add to post # 2

Spark plug socket(s) and wrenches for ignition cables
Sockets to disassemble wheels and brakes (will need two sockets of the same size for the wheels)
Ratchet(s) or flex handle(s) for the above
Wrench for axle nut (The one from Van's is probably the lightest)
Safety wire (mine is wound on a small dowel)
Tool for safety wire (Leatherman works for this)
Small bottle for commonly used fasteners (Pill bottle works)
Fasteners for above
Duct or gaffers tape wound around pill bottle
Sandpaper in different grades (can be backed by some of the tools above to dress prop nicks)
Small tool bag (I use the 11 In. Tool Bag With 3 Pockets from HF - it fits between the bottom of the seat back and the flap torque tube on the 6, etc.)
 
I have been flying my RV-8 for 12 years, I never travel with tools, only a towel and plexus.

PD: I don't have tools in my car either.

I travel with a few tools mainly to help my friends, never needed any myself.
(I prefer to do preventative maintenance to avoid such things, and the wife prefers I don’t work on the plane while we’re traveling) :cool:
If I wanted to be a traveling mechanic I’d ride a Harley!
 
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You will never have a problem with anything you have tools and parts to fix. Problems on the road only occur for something you don’t have proper tools to fix. First Law of Mechanics.
 

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Cable Shackle For Rudder Horn

Here are the specs for different cable shackles (from Genuine AC Hdwe).

We typically use AN115-21, which already has a .188" hole diameter. If that's not large enough for you (even though the plans call out is for a -3 bolt), there is ample edge distance on the hole flange to enlarge it a bit for your needs.

YMMV

HFS
 

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Jack

In addition to some of the above tools, RV8 travel jack in case of that unexpected flat tire.
 
Looks like what I have been doing except I have a Clevis at the front also.

An eyebolt with a few spacing washers at the rudder horn drops the cable assembly below the bottom rudder cap at full deflection. Might not need that on a -6, but it's needed on the -8 when the attach point is moved inboard to correct the rudder/tailwheel ratio.

In addition to some of the above tools, RV8 travel jack in case of that unexpected flat tire.

You bet! A fella can usually borrow tools, but jacking Grove gear out in the boonies might be tough. I carry two of these, left and right. They pick up two axle attach bolts and allow the use of a small jack, or even a log and a limb for a lever. Note the modified wrench to reach in behind the disk and hold the bolt head. Wouldn't be needed if I got off my lazy butt and installed some sort of head lock.
.
 

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An eyebolt with a few spacing washers at the rudder horn drops the cable assembly below the bottom rudder cap at full deflection. Might not need that on a -6, but it's needed on the -8 when the attach point is moved inboard to correct the rudder/tailwheel ratio.

As usual, much learning here for me.

Dan, can you elaborate on finding/setting the “correct rudder/tailwheel ratio”. I have been curious about this ratio’s effect on ground handling for some time. I have a 6 with stock old-school Van’s fully swiveling tailwheel if it matters…
Thanks,
Peter
 
Many past posts, and I don't want to hijack the thread. Short version...rudder should hit the stop without unlocking the tailwheel. An unlock should require tapping a brake. Moving the forward attach point inboard means less tailwheel angle for a given rudder angle. Bonus is less sensitivity on rollout.
 
Many past posts, and I don't want to hijack the thread. Short version...rudder should hit the stop without unlocking the tailwheel. An unlock should require tapping a brake. Moving the forward attach point inboard means less tailwheel angle for a given rudder angle. Bonus is less sensitivity on rollout.

Yup. I agree. Tap brake to unlock.
But most definitely shackle mod.
 
An eyebolt with a few spacing washers at the rudder horn drops the cable assembly below the bottom rudder cap at full deflection. Might not need that on a -6, but it's needed on the -8 when the attach point is moved inboard to correct the rudder/tailwheel ratio.



You bet! A fella can usually borrow tools, but jacking Grove gear out in the boonies might be tough. I carry two of these, left and right. They pick up two axle attach bolts and allow the use of a small jack, or even a log and a limb for a lever. Note the modified wrench to reach in behind the disk and hold the bolt head. Wouldn't be needed if I got off my lazy butt and installed some sort of head lock.
.
Wow. A travel jack. Mmm? Not gunna do too much bush or off airport stuff. I'm sure I could find a good Samaritan around.
I do have the small jack adapter
 
Wow. A travel jack. Mmm? Not gunna do too much bush or off airport stuff. I'm sure I could find a good Samaritan around.
I do have the small jack adapter

Doesn't have to be bush or off airport flying. Some airports nowadays are like a ghost town. Good luck finding someone around. The RV8 travel jack I use only weighs 3 pounds, breaks down fairly flat, and works with the blended airfoil Grove gear I've got. It also cost a lot less than what it is now when I got mine a while back but that's life these days.
I always carry a tube repair kit that you can pick up at the local Wally World. A small collapsible bike air pump (same one I use to pump up my air mattress at OSH) will get you the required air pressure as long as there's no weight on the tire. On long cross country trips I'll take a spare tube. I know when I've changed tires before, it sometimes takes a clamp to bring the two tire rims together. Instead of carrying a clamp, I carry a couple of bolts that are about an inch longer than the rim requires. Use those to "clamp" the two halves together then swap them out one at a time with the correct bolts. You would be well on your way before anyone shows up at an out of the way airport.
 
I've had two alternator failures away from home. I have the tools onboard to complete a change. I use an automotive alt so it's available at most
auto/air parts store. Also have tubes, fuel sump drain, o-rings.
 
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