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  #1  
Old 08-10-2022, 09:00 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 193
Default Numatx rivet squeezer

Is anybody using the Numatx compact rivet squeezer? After a lengthy nut plate riveting session with my 7 lb squeezer my shoulder was pretty sore the next day. I've been eyeing the compact squeezer but wanted to get some feedback on it from the community.
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RV-14A Kit#140433
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2022, 09:14 PM
GOFT GOFT is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 59
Default Numatix

Used mine for all dimpling, excepts the skins and for a ton of riveting. Compact, light and reliable.
Cleveland's Main squeeze is another gem!
Would not tackle a build without either.
Unless my wife OK the "Pop rivet" -15 :-)
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2022, 09:20 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 193
Default

I forgot to ask in my original post about how you adjust the squeeze stroke. In mine it's adjustable by screwing the plunger in and out. I read the manual on the Numatx website and it seems that it's automatic?? It wasn't clear to me.
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Art Jackson
RV-14A Kit#140433
Last section completed: Wing spars
Scrapped: Rudder
Working on: Flaps
Wing Kit Ordered 21 June 2021, Arrived May 6 2022
Construction log - mykitlog.com/ajackson
Dues paid on May 2022
Member of EAA Chapter 92 (KCNO)
Pet peeve: "Lose" (rhymes with "booze") is the opposite of "find". "Loose" (rhymes with "juice") means "not tight".
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  #4  
Old 08-10-2022, 11:21 PM
Nero Nero is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Kuna, ID
Posts: 17
Default

I like mine. Took a bit of finageling to set up, but once you bleed it all... twice... then it's very very good.

you control the air pressure going to the unit which controls how much force is applied. You just have to be mindful of the flat sets that you use, as sometimes you want to use ones that are a bit thicker or thinner depending on rivet length.
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  #5  
Old 08-11-2022, 06:09 AM
dstates dstates is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Geneseo, IL
Posts: 49
Default

I recently purchased my Numatx and I have only done the practice kits with it, but I like it. I chose it over a pneumatic squeezer due to the size and that it always squeezes with the same force vs. a pneumatic squeezer only hits it's force at the end of stroke. This way with the Numatx you don't have to adjust the set length for each different length of rivet. In the end I bet you get good at that with the pneumatic squeezer so it probably isn't a huge deal. You also control it with a foot pedal so it might be easier to use in tight spots, as long as you can get your foot to the pedal. There are always trade offs.

Basically you do some trial and error to figure out what pressure you need to squeeze a -3 and -4 rivet then you just always set your regulator to those pressures. A good starting point I was given was 60psi for -3 and 85psi for -4.

I had to bleed it twice (I think using it some in between moved any remaining bubbles around). I clamped my squeezer head to the top of a step ladder to make sure there were no dips in the hydraulic hose while bleeding. Once you have that, you just need to make sure the sets bottom out (you'll see the yoke flex a bit). If it doesn't bottom out you won't get the force you need (same as any squeezer). It does come with two different length rams. So far I have been able to use the short one most of the time. I will probably order one more flat set that is a length in between the two I currently have and that should minimize the number of times I need to swap out the rams.

I also built a small platform out of scrap plywood and 2x2's so the pedal and air/hydraulic intensifier don't move around and I put a handle on it so it is easy to locate. I'll try to post a picture later. I saw the Flyboy guys at Oshkosh had a similar setup.

I didn't go for the hose upgrade since I was already spending more than a pneumatic squeezer. I figured if the regular hose bothered me I can always order it later.

Hope this helps.
Doug
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  #6  
Old 08-11-2022, 07:35 AM
PhatRV PhatRV is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Buena Park, California
Posts: 863
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by StressedOut View Post
I forgot to ask in my original post about how you adjust the squeeze stroke. It wasn't clear to me.
I used thin washers as shims for the dimpling dies or squeezer dies. I removed the shims or added shims for a desirable rivet head. This way I could use the full travel of the squeezer. You can buy a package of thin throwaway washers from McMaster
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  #7  
Old 08-11-2022, 08:25 AM
dstates dstates is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Geneseo, IL
Posts: 49
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatRV View Post
I used thin washers as shims for the dimpling dies or squeezer dies. I removed the shims or added shims for a desirable rivet head. This way I could use the full travel of the squeezer. You can buy a package of thin throwaway washers from McMaster
But you don't need to adjust the squeeze stroke with a Numatx squeezer. The entire stroke has the same force capability vs. a pneumatic squeezer that only has full force at the end of stroke. Small washer worthy changes are not required. If you have a large difference Numatx does send you two different length rams (1/4" difference). This video is useful to see the differences in squeezers https://youtu.be/fxn5aqW7CFs.
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RV-14 Ordered 2/7/22
Wing Kit Delivered 9/28/22
Currently flying N1235D - Cessna 170A

Last edited by dstates : 08-11-2022 at 08:27 AM.
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  #8  
Old 08-11-2022, 08:46 AM
gfb gfb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 820
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I have not had much luck with my Numatx. The first one leaked around the primary piston seal, replaced easily with vendor. The second one just recently started leaking in the same spot as well. Construction does not seem to be the best, thread walls are really thin, etc.

Additionally, I cant seem to get it to put out enough force to properly do a dimple or squeeze a -4 rivet. I've bled it 3 or 4 times, done the ladder trick, had multiple people over to look it over and give their thoughts & help bleed. I basically stopped bothering with it and just use a hand squeezer or the regular pneumatic.
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2022, 08:54 AM
abwaldal@gmail.com abwaldal@gmail.com is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 591
Default

You will be laughing and kicking yourself at the same time once you get one.
It is so cool to just push your foot down and get a perfect rivet every time.
I even got a 6" yoke from some guy on Marketplace.
I started this journey With my 1991 RV-6 kit and I understand the squeezer pain.
Bought my Numatx a few years ago and love it. Did I say I LOVE it.
Great tool
Art
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  #10  
Old 08-11-2022, 09:25 AM
rv12is rv12is is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 42
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I have the Numatx, and if I had it to do over again I would get a pneumatic squeezer instead. It's still much better than squeezing everything by hand, but mine has a few problems.
  1. Bleeding. The initial bleeding isn't too bad. As others have mentioned it often takes bleeding twice to get all the air out. Once that is done properly, it works great. My problem is that it works great for about a day. The next day I'll have to turn up the air pressure some more to get it to fully set a rivet. I'll keep doing this for a few weeks before I'm unable to fully set a rivet without exceeding it's maximum rated pressure. At that point I'll need to bleed the system again. --I haven't used it for over a month now because of this. I find that unless I'm planning on >100 rivets in a session, it's just easier to manually squeeze than to mess with bleeding it... yet again.

  2. Alignment. There's some play where the yoke attaches to the squeezer. With little to no pressure applied the squeezer body is perfectly perpendicular to the yoke and the dies are nice and parallel. As pressure is applied, the yoke will shift. This means that the dies will no longer be parallel. So now one must decide if this angle will be applied to the factory or the shop head. If the squeezer body is continued to be held perpendicular to the skin, the result is that one side of a flush rivet will always sit proud while the other side is slightly recessed. To compensate, the squeezer must be angled as pressure is being applied. The goal is to keep the yoke aligned with the skin by purposefully misaligning the squeezer body. --This has taken some practice, but I've gotten pretty good at it. Again, I find that unless if I'm squeezing a bunch of rivets, it's just simpler, faster, and better final results to manually squeeze.

  3. Control. Especially because of the fine control required for issue number 2 above, I find the foot pedal control to be lacking. It's very difficult to "feather". In order to get a good flush rivet I need to apply enough pressure for the squeezer to hold the rivet without squeezing until after I shift it slightly (to compensate for the misalignment mentioned above). --I'm certain I could fix this one by buying a higher quality pedal. However, given the other issues I don't see this tool as being worth investing more money into.

  4. Air leaks. There are minor air leaks in multiple locations. I could likely fix the majority of these (except for the leaks internal to the foot pedal) by disassembling, applying some thread sealant, and replacing a few connections. --I'll likely do this at some point. But for now I just disconnect the air line when I'm not using it.
With all the above being said, I don't hate it. The concept, weight, and the ability to go from one rivet length to another without making adjustments is great. It's just the execution could be better.
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