I also used the white on clear p-touch labels, and planned to do something more "permanent" once I was sure all was good.I plan to do what flyhud did and p-touch label my panel for the phase 1. After phase 1 or when i decide i like everything, i will brush clear over the labels.
Dry transfer design using Visio and made by customrubontransfers.com
Nest like a model decal sheet and make extras in case you mess one up.
Coat with clear, or not. I haven't, and 12 years later (on the 6) still fine, but I did change one switch function/label by scraping it off with a toothpick. Can't do that if you clear over.
Use a burnishing tool to put them on. Easy peasy.
$37 delivered for an 8.5x11 sheet. Hard to beat that for a pro job.Thank you. Dry transfer seems easiest for the DYI approach. I can CAD up exactly what I want. I assume placing a ruler on the drawing for scaling at the printer is helpful.
I found some 8.5 x 11 sheets of the water slide material designed for laser printers. layed out everything in word, printed and applied. I then shot three coats of clear over it and blocked it down flat. You can't see the material under the clear, just the letters.
Larry
I tried that first but the ink density of the lines was not as good as I wanted. Kinda grainy. Probably my ancient printer. I sent the file to Stein for better printing. Worked great. Zero evidence of clear substrate rectangle after application. I did use a modelling product to paint on the rectangle edges to make them 'melt in`. I added switch hole centerlines on the decal as an aid to location during application.
I am planning to use the transferable paper to make DIY decals.
https://smile.amazon.com/Transparen...keywords=transfer+decal&qid=1612103739&sr=8-6
Used a product called "Durablack" from johnson plastics
https://www.jpplus.com/durablack.
It's a black coated aluminum plate that can be laser etched. Jeremy was the first one I saw use it. My local engraver did the laser etching from a pdf file I sent to him. Whole cost for the material (18x36") and engraving, less than $75.
Plates are cut with a table saw (100 tooth carbide blade) and stuck on with VHB tape.
Switches sandwich both panel and plate.
Came out nice... and can be swapped out if ever there was a change to your layout.
Very nice indeed. What thickness did you use? Once etched/engraved does it need a clearcoat process to maintain it's appearance?Used a product called "Durablack" from johnson plastics
https://www.jpplus.com/durablack.
It's a black coated aluminum plate that can be laser etched. Jeremy was the first one I saw use it. My local engraver did the laser etching from a pdf file I sent to him. Whole cost for the material (18x36") and engraving, less than $75.
interested to see people in this thread reporting about longevity without clear coat on top
Hi Dan, Looks nice. What product did you use for the dry transfer? I have not found any that supports white....Durability has been excellent. As the vendor stated, the longer the dry transfer has been applied, the better it sticks. ...
Hi Dan, Looks nice. What product did you use for the dry transfer? I have not found any that supports white.
I had great results with decalfxpro. There is a bit of a learning curve but the savings are well worth the effort. It is a process, well worth learning.
I used dry transfer letters for a bunch of art projects in college. There was always some residue of the non-printed transfer material.
Do these dry transfer products that others have recommended have similar residue issues, or has the technology advanced since I last used them? My panel is polished carbon fiber, so I'm worried that any residue will be more obvious than on a matte finished panel.