VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-9/9A
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #31  
Old 04-05-2021, 02:23 PM
M5fly's Avatar
M5fly M5fly is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 272
Default Getting ready for the fun...

Resurrecting this thread... I recently found some play in the nose gear on my 6A and decided to go with the tapered pin repair. I just ordered the parts and they should be here later this week. Hoping to get it done the following weekend.

My question is what is the easiest/fastest way to do this on a flying aircraft? My initial thoughts were to unhook all necessary hoses, mounts, wires, etc. then hook an engine hoist up, unbolt the engine mount from the firewall, and move the assembly far enough forward to access the hole and complete the job from underneath. Does this sound reasonable or am I going to need to remove the mount from the engine and clamp it to something in order to get enough force on it while drilling/reaming?

I was hoping the entire job could be accomplished in one long day, but maybe I'm crazy... It seems like a lot of folks have gone this route during their builds but I haven't been able to find a ton of info on the best way to accomplish this on a flying aircraft.

If only this could be done from the top without removing the engine or mount!
__________________
Cole Melby
N642RV at KCXP
1992 RV-6A, O-320 150hp
Bought flying, 1/2021
Exemption waived, 2022 donation made
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 04-05-2021, 04:28 PM
cajunwings cajunwings is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 905
Default Nose gear taper pin

Done this on a 6A & 9A. Donít see how it could be done without removing the engine. Might be possible to do this job on a long day with some good help and no snags. Both times I left the prop & baffles installed and only disconnected things that were necessary to free the engine.





Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	C99258AE-3565-41BC-A10D-D152EE519171.jpg
Views:	102
Size:	335.2 KB
ID:	10069  
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 04-06-2021, 05:48 PM
M5fly's Avatar
M5fly M5fly is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunwings View Post
Done this on a 6A & 9A. Donít see how it could be done without removing the engine. Might be possible to do this job on a long day with some good help and no snags. Both times I left the prop & baffles installed and only disconnected things that were necessary to free the engine.





Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
Would you recommend removing the engine first and then the mount or can it be done by freeing the mount from the firewall just enough to allow room to complete the job?
__________________
Cole Melby
N642RV at KCXP
1992 RV-6A, O-320 150hp
Bought flying, 1/2021
Exemption waived, 2022 donation made
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 04-06-2021, 09:21 PM
gasman gasman is online now
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 4,337
Default

Cole, you may save yourself a lot of work if you try a longer bolt first. The stock bolt measures under size right near the threads. This causes the mount to have only one fitted surface and that is near the head of the bolt. This will cause play in the gear to show up.

Replace the stock bolt (20A) with a 21A. Going by memory, I think I installed one washer under the head of the bolt, and two under the nut..... This procedure takes about 30 minutes and may solve your problem.
__________________
VAF #897 Warren Moretti
2021 =VAF= Dues PAID
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 04-07-2021, 06:54 AM
Walt's Avatar
Walt Walt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 6,597
Default

The NAS6605 series also run a few thousands larger.
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)

EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 2000+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags, MTV-9 prop
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 04-07-2021, 09:04 AM
cajunwings cajunwings is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 905
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M5fly View Post
Would you recommend removing the engine first and then the mount or can it be done by freeing the mount from the firewall just enough to allow room to complete the job?
Both times I left the mount in place on the firewall and reamed from the top down. It took a lot of inward pressure on the reamer to get it to cut. If you wanted to ream from the bottom up I think the mount needs to be off the engine.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 04-07-2021, 11:34 AM
M5fly's Avatar
M5fly M5fly is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman View Post
Cole, you may save yourself a lot of work if you try a longer bolt first. The stock bolt measures under size right near the threads. This causes the mount to have only one fitted surface and that is near the head of the bolt. This will cause play in the gear to show up.

Replace the stock bolt (20A) with a 21A. Going by memory, I think I installed one washer under the head of the bolt, and two under the nut..... This procedure takes about 30 minutes and may solve your problem.
Do you happen to have the specs so I get the right one from ACS? I already ordered the taper pin but if this easier fix works I can always return the other stuff. Is this a bolt I could find at Fastenal or only from ACS? My only fear is this fix will be good for awhile but I might have to do the taper pin option down the road as it wears more... I may order the NAS6605 as well and see which works best. I have the same question for Walt on which NAS6605 series part number is correct.
__________________
Cole Melby
N642RV at KCXP
1992 RV-6A, O-320 150hp
Bought flying, 1/2021
Exemption waived, 2022 donation made
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 04-07-2021, 11:50 AM
M5fly's Avatar
M5fly M5fly is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunwings View Post
Both times I left the mount in place on the firewall and reamed from the top down. It took a lot of inward pressure on the reamer to get it to cut. If you wanted to ream from the bottom up I think the mount needs to be off the engine.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
How were you able to torque the nut reaming from the top down? I'd prefer that route but didn't think it was possible.
__________________
Cole Melby
N642RV at KCXP
1992 RV-6A, O-320 150hp
Bought flying, 1/2021
Exemption waived, 2022 donation made
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 04-07-2021, 08:15 PM
cajunwings cajunwings is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 905
Default Taper pin

On the 6A there was enough room. On the 9A I used the end of a wooden broom handle to form a small rounded dent/depression in the stainless firewall at the nut location. The material is pretty soft so easy does it. Didn’t take much, maybe 1/4 the size of a golf ball. I seem to remember having to cut the tip off the reamer so it wouldn’t contact the firewall.

Don B
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 04-07-2021, 09:15 PM
gasman gasman is online now
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 4,337
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M5fly View Post
Do you happen to have the specs so I get the right one from ACS? I already ordered the taper pin but if this easier fix works I can always return the other stuff. Is this a bolt I could find at Fastenal or only from ACS? My only fear is this fix will be good for awhile but I might have to do the taper pin option down the road as it wears more... I may order the NAS6605 as well and see which works best. I have the same question for Walt on which NAS6605 series part number is correct.
I ordered five AN5-21A bolts and measured all of them for the best fit. You need to add at least one washer under the head for a good shank fit, and two under the nut. The nut used was MS21045-5. The washers AN960-516.

The bolt went in from the top with the washer, and you add washers and the nut as the bolt is exposed out the bottom or you will not get the nut on.

When ready to torque, measure the drag of the bolt, the tighten the nut to the point of needing the torque wrench and add the drag torque to the bolt torque spec.
__________________
VAF #897 Warren Moretti
2021 =VAF= Dues PAID
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:08 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.